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jfish

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Everything posted by jfish

  1. Has anyone used a pressure bleeder on a stock P15 master cylinder? How successful was it? Which pressure bleeder did you use?
  2. My lighter was attached to the acc. terminal of the ignition switch not at the ammeter. Don't know if that is the original setup or not.
  3. Thanks for the info Sniper and Moparfun! I think I will add another return spring right at the carb. There is only a little clip holding the linkage to the carb and if it goes the throttle goes wide open.
  4. A couple more pictures. On the first picture here, what is the unused hole for where the throttle connects? It seems like there should be a throttle return spring.
  5. More pictures on next page. A few questions. 1. Is this the correct carb for my P15? 2.Is it correctly hooked up? 3. Is there a rebuild kit available? Thanks!
  6. I noticed on this page the brakes technical section says when bleeding the front brakes do the top cylinder first. But the service manual says to do the bottom cylinder first.
  7. This booster was on my 1962 Plymouth, so it went on the firewall no problem. I would like to see a setup on a P15 or other frame mount MCs. A friend put a dual MC on his 53 Chevy and he had to install a sealed top and a remote resevoir to make it work.
  8. I put a dual master cylinder and power booster on my 1962 Fury. There seemed to be way too much free pedal travel (maybe just the opposite of your problem). I found that if the master cylinder was unbolted from the booster, there was a pin with a spherical head that was part of the booster and it pushed on the MC. This pin was adjustable and the brakes would go from dragging to having too much free play. After some trial and error it's good. There was nothing in the literature I received about this adjustment. As others have said moving this pin may give the MC the slack it needs to retract.
  9. It seems originally the shaft in the MC was a slide fit and the PIN was used to locate it side to side.
  10. I agree, it's a major pain with the c-clips and the long pedal arms. I can get most of the c-clips off by using a putty knife (about 1.5") to push on the ears of the clip. This usually forms an opening at the other end of the clip where you can slip in a small screwdriver and pry on it. Usually have to switch to a bigger screwdriver till it pops off. For the pedal arms you need to remove the rubber pedals and a steel plate where the pedal arms come thru the floor board. Then you can get the long arms thru the floor. If you unbolt the MC you can remove the brake pedal arm and slide out the MC with the clutch pedal arm still attached.
  11. I removed the master cylinder from my 1946 P15. (Note that the service manual was not helpful.) This MC shaft does not have a pin (part number 856013) holding it in place. There is not even a hole for it. It appears that the shaft is just pressed into the casting. The casting part # is 863 425 which matches the parts book. Was there a running change made by the factory? Has anyone had to remove this shaft that I assume is pressed into the master cylinder body? I will need to use in the new MC I ordered from Bernbaum.
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