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jfish

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Everything posted by jfish

  1. Wow, very nice car! Can't remember the last time I saw one.
  2. I want to get a set of Baby Moon style hubcaps for my P15. I had a set that popped on over the 3 or 4 bumps (attaching points) that sit on a 9" circle but they are gone and I don't know where they came from. The wheels are 15" and have a 4.5" bolt circle. I don't know if the wheels are stock or if they came came off a Ford (for instance). What should I order? Thanks See the picture below:
  3. Would be a major project to remove and modify that arm! According to Wilwood, if one system fails the MC requires 50% to 80% of its stroke to START building pressure in the remaining system. 50% would probably be OK. In any case as you said, these brakes will be way better than the old brakes!
  4. The existing brake pedal arm is 10.5" long and the short arm that pushes on the MC is 1.5" for a 7:1 ratio. I think to get up to 1.1" travel the shorter arm needs to be longer (not easy to do) to about 1.8". Would also make the pedal harder to push by about 20%. Yes I think this could be a problem if one brake circuit failed.
  5. No, it's not binding. If I remove the brake pedal pad, I can pull on the brake pedal arm from under the car until it passes thru the floor of the car and the arm is horizontal. At that point the new MC has bottomed out.
  6. I am using 2 pistons from the Mopar MC and the Mopar connecting rod along with the Wilwood connecting rod to actuate the new Wilwood MC. I tapped the end (5/16-24) of one of the pistons to take the Wilwood connecting rod. Not related to this but so far I can only get about 0.9" of travel at the Wilwwod cylinder. Wilwood says you should be able to totally bottom out their cylinder for safety and that requires about 1.1"
  7. Me too. Just trial and error I guess. Never done it.
  8. Another way to release the latch is with a 12" long screwdriver inserted thru the left grill and aiming up at a 45 degree angle as shown. Sorry this forum turns about half my photos sideways.
  9. This one is 6 volts Pos or Neg ground. Don't know why it only lists Buicks. I have it installed on my P15 but not run it yet.
  10. Wilwood master cylinder is mounted and centered. Should be ready for a test run soon.
  11. A sketch to show how I am mounting the Wilwood MC behind the original MC.
  12. Getting closer to the end. Made the mounting plate for the Wilwood MC. Will do the spacer tomorrow.
  13. Good news. My wheels clear the disk brakes! The 15" long Cadillac Seville hose fits OK and you can get it on Amazon if you search BH36845 for $12. Sorry the pictures are sideways but there does not seem to be any way to fix it.
  14. Here is the picture. The Bernbaum lug screw is on the right. What's left of a rivet is in the middle and an old lug screw is on the left.
  15. Two points here: The old hubs are pretty thin near the edge so I was able to cut down the OD with a grinder in about 20 minutes. I bolted the wheel, probe rotor and old hub together using the lug screws I had. The old lug screws were a few threads short of full engagement in the hub. Newer lug screws I had from Andy Bernbaum fully engaged the hub's threads. Will attach a picture later.
  16. $320 may not be a bad price to pay. I will have to get a quote from my machine shop to compare.
  17. The passenger side hub is easy to adapt to studs. I used 1/2-20 button head screws 2" long as shown here. I will loctite them in place. Buy a set of 1/2-20 lug nuts also. The driver side is more of a problem as the threads in the hub are left handed. Finding left handed studs or threaded rod is very difficult. The next picture shows the 10 bosses on the back of the hub. I am going to drill out the rivet bosses and tap them for 1/2-20 Right handed threads and use the button head screws like the passenger side hub. The rivet bosses are on the same 4.5" bolt circle as the original threads and spaced just the same.
  18. Now if you want a Scarebird kit to convert your P15 to disc brakes only the ECONOMY kit (DGE 30) is available. The main thing here is that you don't get those nice aluminum hubs. You must reuse the hubs from your brake drums. First photo shows grinding the heads off the rivets that hold the hub to the drum. I then drilled the rivets a 3/16" deep and the hub fell out. Don't forget to buy new seals for the inner hub bearings. The old one will be destroyed when you remove them. Next photo shows the passenger hub. To fit this into the rotor Scarebird specifies you must reduce the hub diameter to about where the red line is drawn. The next problem is getting studs for your hubs.
  19. Rotors are NAPA 4886318. For 1993-1996 Ford Probe front.
  20. The new Economy Scarebird kit (only one available now for P15s) uses different calipers and rotors, does not include hubs or bearings. The steel mounting plate is also different. You have to use the hubs from the old brake drums. Don't know why the photo of the spindle is shown sideways. I can't fix it.
  21. Here are dimensional drawings for a mount for the Wilwood 260-7563 dual master cylinder and a pushrod adapter using parts of the original pushrod and Wilwood pushrod. I am only in the mock-up stage so use the dimensions at your own risk. Thanks again Sam your ideas made the whole conversion workable!
  22. Thanks, you inspired me to do this project. I came up with another mount for the MC. This is just a wood mock-up now but I think it will work. I can't weld so this mount is all made by drill and saw. I will do a dimensional drawing if anyone is interested.
  23. Thanks Sam. That's the way I usually do it to. This Scarebird bracket looks like a good start. I just ordered the Scarebird disc setup. Delivery these days is slow and they predict end of month delivery. Also the price has risen $28 recently. Only the "Economy" package is available (no aluminum spindles) you must use the spindles from your brake drums.
  24. Thanks for the excellent post! Do you have a drawing with dimensions for the bracket you made to hold the new master cylinder?
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