Saskwatch

Would you consider creating a “how to”post on repairing these temp gauges? I for one would be most interested and grateful ! 👍

Thank you very much for posting this! Following closely 👍

Ed - Please excuse me , just read Sam’s response and now I know what you are referring to …. I agree with Sam , appropriate sized grade 8 bolt ….. i tried building up worn piece’s with limited/questionable results …… weld , file repeat 🤷🏼‍♂️

What Sam said 👍

Thank you very much for this , the numbers and their order really confused me but now it all makes sense!! This forum and the members here-in are the BEST. 👍👍

I’m not qualified to answer on the axle shaft , I “think” the backing plate holds the axle bearing that holds the axle in place ?? ….someone will correct me if I’m wrong here. Keithb7 has posted that the inner axle seal can be replaced with a Caterpillar equipment part no. # 2B-1869 He also has some YouTube videos on the rear differential that may be helpful. Forum member Noonan has an interesting post on how he replaced the outer seal , it can be found on page 5 of this forum . On this axle these are grease seals , “possibly , I think “ if to much grease was forced into the bearing cavity it may be forcing out the outer seal, in some situations the seal may not need to be replaced , but rather relieve the pressure by removing some grease ? Please let us know how you make out 👍

Thank you very much I appreciate it !👍

Would you help me decipher /confirm what these numbers mean the rear axle ratio is on this differential, please. A 37 1 44 Thank you 👍

Kind Sir - I have been trying to gather as much information as possible on the R10 OD transmission, reading & rereading trying to understand how it works and the proper electrical connections…… Now you drop this ?? You can actually get it working with no electronics! 🤷🏼‍♂️ Please 🙏 don’t leave me hanging ‘ How did you do this ??? (-;

Where would I source one of these? Is it in the downloads section? www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com

No problem , that’s what the forum is here for 👍 keep us posted 👌

Andy Bernbaum - old moparts.com

That is very helpful & timely information! Thank you for sharing that 👍👍

Thank you for your response, that is helpful in understanding why the spring has to be so heavy …… I was going to try a weaker spring but understand now that won’t work so good . Thanks again 👍

I’m reinstalling the clutch over center spring assembly on our Canadian 1948 Dodge Cl. Coupe ( p15 “plodge”) There is a lot of very helpful information to read through from the past forum posts on properly adjusting this spring. I’m going to try and show a photo of this mechanism that was posted by Dodgeb4ya back in December 2021. The bottom loop on my spring is worn through, not worth reinstalling. I’m trying to find one I can replace it with but this is a very heavy duty spring ! I’m wondering why it has to be so heavy if its job is to return the clutch pedal after it has been depressed? Would like to ask what others have used to replace this spring, please ? Also , in the bottom of this photo , you can see the end of a much “lighter” spring that is hooked into a small hole in the frame , where is the other end oriented? …. Possibly brake pedal return spring ? Thank you very much for any help.

Please keep us posted OUTFXD step by step !! 👍👍

Hello there Doug - “Been there Done that “ …. Not sure I’m in the position to advise but I will share what I did & why. First - you are absolutely correct that there is not much room to work on gauge cluster, we had the seats out and the clutch / brake shafts out with the master brake cylinder at the time , so I was able to use the fire wall as kind of a headrest/ support while doing the required yoga pose & stretches to tilt my head far enough back to get the focus out of my glasses , all while having both hands above said tilted head , fumbling away with the wiring connections. 🤷🏼‍♂️ Next was the headliner, b/c of the overall , questionable shape of ours , we decided to “undo” the left side , front & rear just enough to get at the wiring , nothing to lose sort of thing. while it is not wrapped together as one unit , it is fastened together in one bundle and then that bundle is clamped in 3or 4 places to hold it in the channel that runs above the door & window on the Cl. Coupe. Unfortunately, that makes it almost impossible to fasten a new wire unto the existing wire & use it to pull one wire at a time along the side of an untouched headliner into the trunk area. We were able to reattach the side , front & rear of the headliner satisfactorily. 👍

Well Done ! …. Thank you for sharing this , I wouldn’t have thought this was even possible! You have given me the confidence to at least give this a try ! 👍

A lot of good ideas here on addressing the warped carburetor horn. I would also be interested in how to address a worn carburetor throttle shaft housing , resulting in throttle shaft” play” I’m tempted to try sliding a snug fitting fibre washer on the throttle shaft, so it rides against the carburetor body, hopefully, as a temporary fix to slow down the passage of air ?

Good one andyd (-; I for one tend to take this restoration project that I freely chose way to seriously at times …. Thank you Andy for the reset ! 👍

Thank you , much appreciated! 👍👍

Just to clarify, please - with the sector removed from the steering box , do we confirm that there is no movement in the worm gear tapered bearings by holding steering wheel and pushing it toward dash and then pulling straight back towards your chest ? If there is “ back & forth “ movement, remove shims accordingly to take out this movement/play ? Correct adjustment will yield a slight drag while turning the steering wheel full right to left , BEFORE , I reinstall the sector ? Thank you very much 👍