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Everything posted by 49WINDS
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That's one thing I didn't know about when installing the NOS was to soak it. Either way I think I'll do like most people have here and put a sleeve and new seal in it. Was there a specific part # that anyone has found that is a good fit or is it easier to just take measurements yourself and go to NAPA?
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@JSabah Did you have any luck with fixing this leak yet? I am having the same problem with mine even after replacing the seal with an OEM style. I measured the flange on mine and there is similar wear to what yours shows, but I'm curious if just the speedi sleeve will fix that issue or if I'll have to yank the whole seal out again and maybe try a neoprene one this time...wish I had thought to check all this the first time!!
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Sorry, I lumped the two together because on my car it says fluid drive in the back, but also has the gyro matic or m6 transmission. I forget that there were plenty of other vehicles that had a manual transmission but also came with the fluid drive coupling as well. Long story short-not sure why the pertronix instructions don't state it but another member here had reached out to them about using the m5/6 transmissions and they recommend adding in the resistor.
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From what I understand those are the same transmission, just different names used by Chrysler, Dodge, etc. I haven't gotten to put many miles on mine yet but it runs beautifully since putting in the pertronix and a new coil.
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This is the one that I ended up buying, funny because it looks to have the same specs as yours. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RH0107R000FC02?qs=%2Fha2pyFadugnNOB0EMLp0DKbULhieLhTUXysTlS6nodZ2YMVcebWmw%3D%3D
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Haha well it's good to know I'm not the only one who just dives into pulling things apart and has to figure out reassembly later! The cam on yours looked in much better shape than mine did, although I think the only reason I found my issue was because I heard it rattling inside when I had it apart for upgrading to pertronix.
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I had torn apart my whole distributor last fall and never even thought to take note of which way the cam was orientated. I did have excessive wear similar to yours on one side but I actually ended up finding a used dizzy that was in good shape and took the parts I needed out of it. I thought someone on this forum had said the letters just notated slightly different timing curves but looking at mine I noticed the are different letters on the base plate versus the cam. I think matching up the more worn sides is a safe bet to putting it back how it was though. As you mentioned in your previous comment though I think it doesn't really matter as the only real difference is the strength of the springs.
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Thanks again, those pictures really help a lot. From what I'm seeing though it looks like on both carbs the deflector faces to the right? I might have to mess around with it some more on mine to see which way looks correct.
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Thanks Dodge! That also makes sense that the deflector is on wrong as I always wondered why the linkage rod seemed to get in the way. I guess I'll call RI wiring again tomorrow and see about getting the correct plug, and also ask them if they show that style for the newer years of cars or if maybe they have the wrong info. Any pictures you could find would also be great. I'm not trying to make this a show car by any means but I would like to get it as original looking as possible.
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Good afternoon, I just received a transmission wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring to replace my terribly patched and worn out original harness. It looks beautiful except for one connection that didn't match what I have on the car. I called them to check and they said everything they have shows a spade connector to the kickdown switch, but somehow I have a bullet connector on mine. They even checked different years on different models and still saw they all had a spade. I have wondered why it would have this connector that hits the choke linkage, so is it possible someone had modified it in the past to use a different connector? Or do I have some weird carb that doesn't match my car? If it helps it is a 49 Chrysler Windsor and the carb # is E7L3
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Thanks Marcel, I guess I hadn't looked into it enough to price every single part I needed but I had thought it might be cheaper. You make a good point about having it done right and looking good, I'm willing to pay a little extra to have a quality job rather than be disappointed with the results of trying it myself.
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I have also been eyeing all the wiring choices on RI's website, and they have a great selection for sure! The interior wiring on my 49 is still in decent shape for it's age, but a lot of the wiring under the hood is down to bare wires in some places. My next project is to rebuild the carb and replace the harness going between it and the transmission as I know it's already been very poorly spliced in a few spots. I've been contemplating trying to order the color and period correct wire from them to make my own replacement versus spending over $200 on a pre-made one from them. I know several of you have made your own harnesses so would you say that it's cheaper and hopefully worth the effort? I'm not looking to keep everything exactly stock, but I would like to at least try to make it look as close as possible.
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Hey! There's no drain plug for the differential on my 48 DeSoto!
49WINDS replied to MarcDeSoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I wish I had seen that tip before replacing the pinion seal on my Chrysler this summer. I got it off ebay for a decent price but now it's started leaking again after I sucked out the who knows how old fluid and installed some new clean stuff. I pulled the vent off the axle tube and cleaned it out as it was pretty gunked up, but I still get a steady leak from the pinion even while just sitting in the garage. My only other guess is maybe it would need a speedy sleeve and/or the seal I installed is faulty. -
Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The band is fairly easy to replace by itself but the hard part is finding the correct one and for a decent price. Andy Bernbaum's has them for pretty cheap but the lining was way too thick and would not work for me. The next cheapest I found was from mopar mall and it was just over $100. I figured I'd just try to re-line my own and if it didn't work then at least I wouldn't be out too much money. Is your drum still in good shape or did you wear it down to the rivets as mine was? -
Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Pulled the car out today to test the brake and she holds like a champ! Also had to finish messing with replacing the u-joints which I thankfully found help on how to do from another post here. I'll put some pictures into that post as well. -
Finally finished the work on my parking brake and decided to drive around the neighborhood to stretch her legs a little. Got some snow a couple days ago but the beauty of Colorado is that it usually melts off within a few days.
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Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That's good to know, kind of wish I had looked into that before hand but I'm fairly confident my work will hold up for now. If I ever need to re-line it again I'll definitely get that kit. Thanks! -
Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Hey I might have a decent side gig going if enough people want that done lol! Plus I know I can only get better with doing it each time since I usually learn how to fix things by doing it the wrong way first. I too just want to have it for parking, especially because it's a fluid-drive and nothing else will hold it in place! My car also has the flashing light feature tied to one of the map lights, but it was unhooked when I got the car and it's still far down on the list of items to fix. All in due time I suppose. -
Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Got a small update for this weekend: I ended up ordering some lining material and rivets from McMaster-Carr and installed it yesterday. Even though they don't offer the 5/32 lining I decided to try the 3/16 after talking with my friend who machined the drum for me. He said he took off about .060" to clean it up so that should hopefully compensate for the slightly thicker lining. It was relatively easy to install even though I didn't have the proper rivet punch tool, I just used a punch & drift to hammer them in. While the end results aren't perfect, they still only cost me $40 in materials so I figure It's worth a try. Here's a few pictures for fun and I'll be sure to post a picture of the hopefully successful installation onto the car later this week! -
Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Are they still in business? I tried calling them and couldn't get through -
You also have to buy and install a 7ohm resistor on the wire coming from the transmission. This isn't listed in the instructions they send you and as I understand if you don't do this then you may burn up your module. You can find the resistor here: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Dale/RH0107R000FC02?qs=60jeK47to0qxpWjIbqfc%2FA%3D%3D and here is a picture of how I installed it on my car:
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Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I'm not sure if it's something they may get more of in stock, but when I called AB to order this band the first time around I had asked about linings and they said they didn't have any. I think I'll take bamfordsgarage's advice and try to call around tomorrow to maybe just get my original one relined. I'll definitely update this once I get it working again, maybe even post a picture of it on a hill with the brick under the tire lol. -
Parking brake? We don't need no stinking parking brake!
49WINDS replied to 49WINDS's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I guess I didn't state it before by my car actually is the semi-auto with the fluid drive transmission. I made sure I ordered the band for that specific one and it did appear to be the correct one in dimensions anyways. I don't know if it was a NOS or re-lined but either way the lining was way too thick. I should've taken a picture of it but I already sent it back a week ago and now I'm just waiting for them to refund my money. -
As long as you bought the model made for positive 6 volt cars then you should wire it as their instructions show. I'm pretty sure you have the same model as I do so if you look at my pictures maybe that will help.
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Scotty, there was just another thread for almost the same issue. I have also installed the 2563lsp6 on my car and had a hard time figuring out the wiring. Here is a diagram another member provided me that helped: I also just took a few pictures of the finished install to hopefully show it a little better. Does your car have the fluid-drive/gryomatic? That makes things a little tricky but isn't too hard to hook up.