Steve-L

Found this article https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Frame_swaps its more involved than I was initially thinking, but hey, I don’t know what I don’t know.

Good point about ball joint not necessarily being at wheel centerline I don’t think I understand #2 i thought to triangulate off the firewall to locate front wheel centerline along both rails. Clearly I need more information.

To answer my own questions, I found this site: http://www.dakota-truck.net/infosheet.html It lists a lot of info on the Dakota’s, hopefully it’s accurate and helps others. Seems 87-90 used the 5 on 4.5” bolt pattern, and 92-96 had the better V8 The rear end has 3 ratios, 3.21 found in the V6 & V8, 3.55 found in the 4 cyl optional on V6 & V8, 3.90 was an option for V6 & V8. V8’s came with either a 46RH auto or a NV3500 man transmissions WB is 112”, track width is 60.8 both are a bit longer and wider than PH, but not by much. The PH WB is 108”, can’t seem to locate track width, but from others posting their projects, it seems to be about 4” narrower, so 56”ish. The Dakota chassis kicks up behind the cab, so a full chassis swap means reworking the bed mounting of the PH. Going with just a front clip eliminates that work. So for myself, definitely leaning towards the front clip of a 87-90 dak, with all the running gear.

I’m contemplating a dakota swap for my B3B and I’m wondering what the pros and cons are, front clip vs whole chassis. did you keep all the running gear? Did you search out the V8 or go with the V6? As I don’t know, what I don’t know. What haven’t I thought of? Thanks in advance

Just read the thread, wow! Thanks for the pointer to how to referb the headlights

Love the look of your ride pflaming.

Nice!

I don’t want to hijack the thread but yes I totally agree. My process is similar to petandvanessa’s doing the work himself, buying the parts as needed. That’s why I was curious. Regardless of the answer it’ll be enjoyable.

I have yet to start on mine... Actually still waiting on it to be picked up in KS and delivered to WA. ? But it’ll get here eventually. So I’m wondering if you’d care to share a ball park figure on what it cost to get it back on the road.. $5K?, $10K? More? Less? Thats my project

Good to know, I’ll be needing an interior kit for my 52 shortly.

I just finished reading the entire thread. Thanks for the memory refreshed, more on that in a bit. Let me say you’re doing a great job. I’ve been planning a very similar similar project for my 38, for the same reasons. Seems everyone is stuffing small a block V-8 or LS variant these days. Looking at your photos, reading about your trials. Brought back lots of memories of the time when I was 28 being drug away from the project for months at a time trying to balance work plus overtime to generate the funds for the project along with wife and family obligations. I knew nothing about cars but bought a 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7. I went through everything you have with your project with the exception of this was pre-Internet I know! Right? Like way back in the dark ages *grin*. Anyway it took me two years to do a frame off, nut and bolt restoration. I then drove it from Seattle to Snowmass Colorado for an international Austin Healey car show. Garnered a third place finish in my class. First and second going to professionally restored trailer queens. Just imagine trying to gather the information you get here by going to different garages mechanics and body and paint guys buying the oldest guy there or the entire shop, coffee and donuts, so you could ask them the questions you ask here. Simply boggles the mind. Once again you’re doing a great job I’m looking forward to your future updates.

Very nice! You’re slowly becoming one of those guys that can build a car/truck out of a grease stain. ?

And the curb weight was? Inquiring minds want to know, just to close out the topic.

52 B3B 38 RD10 59 International Metro 99 VW Camper