chopt50wgn

Pflaming………………...Thank you

Don't know if you can see the door handles well enough here. But I found that 29-30 Model A handles are an exact match for the bolt spacing and used them instead. One has an up curve on one side and the other side a down curve, but the handles are tight and don't droop. The only thing I had to do was shorten the square drive shaft and they were a bolt on.

Saw the pic of your wagon in Streetscene magazine. Car looks really good. Hope you had a fun time and I bet lots of people liked your wagon. I don't know how many are members of the NSRA and get that magazine, but after seeing your build here, I had to say something...…….nice job!!!

I know you know this...……….but just a reminder...……...remember to bench bleed the master cylinder.

very cool...…..I did the same thing here in Pa for my 50 Ply wagon...….put on a 1950 plate.

just remember this...…………...some of the parts you will need can be found here and there, especially here on the web. But major stuff like glass and new steel like kick panels, you may have to make. As far as wiring...……….you can redo the whole car back to 6V or tear everything out and go right to 12V. There are many companies that make wiring harnesses to convert.

am going to get me a pet gorilla and keep him in the back seat.................that way when someone breaks, imagine the surprise when that big hairy paw grabs him..............you will also be sure to be able to prosecute as he will still be in that car....................just thought I would throw a funny in

I forgot to say that when I got this car I did not have any door checks. I found a member here on this site who had an extra one from a car. So I bought the one from him and just made a new one from 1/8" metal. The only thing you have to be aware of is the dog leg in either of them. The dog leg bend is different from one side to the other. I have no doubt that if you can find what you are looking for, you should be able to make one.

I have the all steel 50 Ply wagon and my door checks have a thick rubber bushing that is connected to the arm.The bushing bumps up against a hole in the jamb that stops the door from opening too wide. Mine do not have that slotted piece that the flat arm slides in. But it works and I guess that's what counts.

Mark...............here's my 50 Suburban wagon. I have the Fatman stub in mine. The only thing you need to know if you go this route is to get the front top A-arms with a 3/4" offset. We couldn't get the right wheelbase measurements until we put that 3/4" offset top A-arm on. And unless you ask for that, you get a straight A-arm.

I made sills for my 50 Ply wagon out of 1/8" aluminum. They do have a taper and making a template from cardboard was needed first. After getting them done I had them powder coated in a flat aluminum look.

Let me give everyone another tip.........this one came from my personal experience. if you put a thermostatic control to turn your fan on and off..........make sure you run a over-ride toggle switch to the fan as well. I had my thermos control fail and really didn't know it until I glanced at the temp gauge. Luckily I had a toggle switch under the dash that I turned on and the fan came on. Those thermos control can fail and usually on the hottest day so having an over-ride switch saved the day.

One thing to remember when buying an electric fan...............they are rated in CFM,(cubic feet per minute). Most fan companies have that CFM rating on the box but what they don't tell you is the static pressure drop once the fan is attached to the radiator. Spal fans are what I consider the best fans on the market and the reason is they tell what the fan is rated at CFM wise and they also tell you what the CFM is once attached. There are electric fans out there that are rated at 3000 CFM but once attached to radiator that CFM drops to 1000 or less. So you need to ask questions about the fan you purchase and find out the true CFM.........PS............I don't work for or have anything to do with Spal...........I have just done some research on the electric fans out there.

If you are going to replicate the sills in fiberglass, they will have to be finished to a very thin thickness to fit under the door. Another thing is................glass will be highly susceptible to cracking because it will be pretty brittle due to being thin. I understand your reasoning for wanting to try and make them but fiberglass may not be a viable source of materials. You can get 1/8" aluminum or any other metal at your local Home Depot or Lowes and metal won't crack if you step on it like fiberglass will.

My carpet does not run up over that lip in the door jamb. The carpet is separate and is glued down,the sill plate is also separate. Remember to make a template of both sides as they can vary, mine did. They are also tapered and it is important to get them flush with the inner door jamb.