Kilgore47

There have been a couple of times while working on a car and getting frustrated that I could have used that tool. 😂

Heads up. I have one of those ferrules that I don't need. I replaced the tank on the P15 and didn't use it. If anyone wants it - I will send it to you.

I have a question about the rear axel seals. Yes I had to replace the rear brakes twice because I didn't clear the vent the first time. My question is - Can the inner seal be left out and let the oil in the rear end lubricate the bearings. When I got the P15 I pulled the rear axels to replace the seals. When I pulled the axels the bearings were dry, rusted and they fell apart. This is an often neglected lubrication point.

I'll do the dum dum thing on the hood one day. But for now I don't have a wet plug problem. Don't drive the 47 P15 in the rain. Haven't fixed the wind shield wiper motor yet. Still on the list to be done.

I'll probably get a hard time for this. But for an old engine it looks fine. No matter how much you polish the stains the pitting will still be there. In fact the more you polish it the larger the pits will get. Put it back together and drive it.

Got the engine on the stand. Going to have to adjust a couple of spots. But I design as I build so there will be changes. This engine will eventually go in a 1964 Impalla. Going to mount the radiator on the side of the frame. It has electric fans. I'll build a high point fill so I can get the air out of the system. I was concerened that with the radiator that low that the pump may not work as designed. So I talked to one of my engineering friends and they think it will be OK. There will be a full set of gauges when I get it running. If it doesn't cool with this set up then I'll change it.

I was looking around for steel to use for this project and remembered this old work table. Turned it up side down and it made a good starting point. Put me way ahead of where I thought I would be after the first day. Looks like a real mess. But that's part of building stuff. More news latter,

My neighbor got this Chevy 6 a few years back. As you can see in the picture it has had a rattle can rebuild. My neighbor did the paint job. I have looked in the cylinders and I'm pretty sure it's a smoker. I am going to attempt to build an engine run stand for this thing. I have a nice SS flat bed cart from one of the local storage units. They tossed it and I grabbed it. Just going to start cutting and welding and see what takes shape. I think the engine is from 1959. More news latter

I rebuilt the ball and trunnions on the 47 P15 a few years back. The kits were very expensive then. And I had the same problems. Some of the parts didn't fit. The price has gone up since then. At this price point the cost of two B&T rebuild kits is almost the same as a new drive shaft. Add fifty bucks to it and go to your local four wheel drive shop and have then build you a new drive shaft with modern U joints. If I ever have to fool with mine again - I'll have a new drive shaft built.

Now I want one of those.

Thanks for this post. One of our car group members has several 63 and 64 chevy Impala's. And he replaced the front end on one of them. Like most old car people he doesn't throw stuff away. I asked him about it and he gave the sway bar to me. I just have to track down a mounting kit for it. The 47 P15 has a front sway bar but it's tiny. This one from a 64 Impala should make a big difference.

The center of the storm came through here. Thirty MPH winds at times but no damage. We did get 6.5" of rain that day. Time to get the mower out.

Check the vent on the housing. If it's plugged the grease will be forced past the seals as the rear end housing heats up and pressure builds. When I got the P15 I replaced all the seals, bearings, shoes and cylinders on the rear. About a year latter grease was everywhere. Seals must have gone bad - nope - the vent was plugged. The second time around I made sure the vent was clear. Another year latter and all is good.

Good choice Cooper40.

When I first got the 47 P15 - I was trying to take the front right wheel off to inspect the brakes. Those bolts just wouldn't come out. If I had looked closer I would have seen the "L" on the end of the bolts. Yep - the left hand threads are on the right side of the car and the right hand threads are on the left side of the car. Someone switched them in the past.