Tim Frank

If you do remove the hub, could you not get the bearing seat hardchromed and machined back to a press fit? If you are swapping hubs, you should be able to make a 5 or 6 lug circular plywood template attach it to the hub, mount the whole assembly on a lathe and trim the plywood to an OD the same ID as the drum. The plywood will locate/centre the hub for reassembly. While I agree with the earlier comment/caution that there is usually a reason for the way things are built, in my experience it is often for manufacturing expedience and efficiency. Cars of this vintage could be repaired and often were by ordinary people if common sense and skill were blended. This forum is a running summary of both common sense and skill.....I think Walter Chrysler would be well pleased!

any chance the 52 10-8 is a casting date?

If the "positive ground" item has two wires, you should simply be able to switch the wires as long as the extra voltage is not a factor.

That is almost bad enough news to ruin Christmas. There are few mass-produced beers North or South of the 49th parallel that are truly fit to drink. RR was definitely at the upper end of the scale and when it was available on tap during one of my US trips I enjoyed every drop; it was a one-fingered salute at the Millers and Molsons of the world. If you were fortunate enough to have had access to it where you live....my sympathies on your loss. For me it's kind of like losing an old friend that you never got to see as often as you'd like and now he's gone.

Tim, Some years ago i was in England at the time of Battle of Britain Sunday. My cousin took me to a WWII aerodrome that had been preserved /maintained to operational standards. They did a mock scramble of 5 Spits. Fom siren to lift-off was less than 90 seconds...and the noise was the most surprising part of the show. Those Merlins were an amazing piece of engineering. If they hadn't put the Merlin in the Mustang, we might have missed out on one of the top 5 A/c of WWII.

SUBJECT: We got 'em too I am not sure that I have ever understood this entire Southern/Redneck "thang". It has always seemed pretty possesive to me. Switch the John Deere/Caterpillar ball cap for a toque, and swap the bottle of Budweiser for one of Molson Export, and we could be in just about any town up and down the Ottawa Valley..... And Merry Christmas too!

Is it still available?

Galvanic corrosion

I would try an industrial equipment store like Tenaquip or Acklands...they sell compressor related stuff...if you are not averse to the synthetics I know you have Amsoil dealers down there and they have a great line of non-detergent lubes. Of course being from a "rural" area....(Canada)...I may have a clouded perspective...

Chet, I don't think a surface grinder would be the tool of choice...if it was me I would just chuck it in my lathe and take a skin cut at the correct angle.it looks to me as though you could almost "construct" that fitting from a combintion of two gas/plumbing fittings. Tim

10W oil should not be a problem to get as far as I know. Most air compressors require non-detergent oils and 10W is a common viscosity.

I think a "senior statesman" of this forum said it best.... "There was a recent thread on this forum that touched on how forum members can help each other out. This got me to thinking about how many forum members I have traded parts, tools, and information with over the past few years. My list is long and I would like to think that everyone who helped me out has a signature piece on my car and I in turn have a signature piece on there cars. As I said my list is very long and I will not even attempt to name everyone for fear of forgetting someone. My point is that this is beyond a doubt the best forum in existence for help when you need it. Just want to say thanks to all and a special thanks to GTK for hosting and putting up with us even when we have bad hair days." That seems to be the answer in its own right and of all the posts that I have seen in my short time in here that is the one that I would most have liked to have written myself. Tim

Chet, Is the coupling comprised of one piece or two?

Don, Would "oilite" not work for bushings? or is a bronze-based bushing simply too soft? Am I being naive to think that I will be able to drill and ream the pedal and press in bushings that I turn up on my Atlas? Finally put up a pic, but as you can see am a long way from needing brakes and clutch.... Tim

Don, I am not sure of your usual climate in that part of TN, but if that is a sudden and unusual temp change, you may have some fuel system icing. We get that a lot up here with our temp. swings (last thursday was 52 deg., overnight it went to zero!). Add some methanol/gas line anytifreeze 2 or 3 oz. should do it. Of course if you are running gasohol, forget my idea....

I always use a dwell meter to set points and then adjust the static timing to the correct value. Because I always had cars that were as old as I was, I adjusted final timing on a road test. What is correct dwell for one of these flathead 6s? About 40 degrees? Rule of thumb I learned was about 2/3 of each cylinder ignition stroke swept angle should be dwell in order to generate adequate spark. The 4 bangers that i cut my teeth (and many other things....knuckles, fingers etc ) on usualy ran 58-62 degrees. Tim

Up here in Canada I used to change my MGB t/stat spring and fall. In summer I ran 160F, winter 190F.

Have you thought about marine paints? A number of them are specifically formulsated for fbreglass use.

Tim, at your age (about the same as mine) don't you think you should be more aware of the major cholesterol load from all that shellfish and the affect it could have on your system?!! Yeah, you're right; me neither!! Sounds like the only significant improvement that could have been made would be a dozen lobster and a pound of butter. Got hungry just reading about it. Rgds, Tim (only one Mopar ... and one wife)

I have never experienced gas going bad that quickly either. In fact as far north as PA, or in Canada where I am from, gas does not go off as quickly or foul carbs as badly as it does farther south. I agree with the suggestion of fuel system debris and/or timing.

Looks like my wife's handiwork....

I agree with Nile, it is a non-linear relationship. Here is a link to check if you are interested. http://www.bgsoflex.com/cr.html

You said it is a new generator. If so, it should not need brushes to be replaced. Sounds more like the voltage regulator might be acting up.

I use kerosene or diesel fuel and find that it works about as well as anything.

I'll plead guilty to rehashing the 12V-6V debate, but I was intending to solicit opinions and experiences relating to "whether to" not "how to". There was some good stuff in that thread that I had not seen before. when I get into the execution of this step in the project I will refer first to the archives and other on-line how-to sources.