Jeff Ivan

Just curious here. I have a clip-on mirror on my car that I know is late 1940's-early 1950's era, could be an aftermarket goodie. It was in a box of car stuff that belonged to my late father so I know it is not repro.I don't have a clear pic of it, I'll try to get a close up with my new camera. The mirror lense is rose color tinted. I have never seen another rose color tinted mirror anywhere else, and a couple years ago at a car cruise at a local shopping center a shady looking older fella offered me $30 for it. I would not sell it for sentimental reasons, I told him he could get 2 new ones for about that price, but he kept following me around and bothering me, so I had to keep a close watch on him and my car all night, it is only held on with 2 stainless set screws and could disappear real quick. It makes me wonder is it a little rare or desireable? The chrome is not even close to perfect.

1960 MoPar?

Herold, when I first got my car it had a filter at the pump. I always had a vapor lock problem in the hot weather. It took me a while to figure out what was going on, THANKS to this forum and all the smart & experienced old car guys here it is no longer vapor locking. I put the filter back at the tank in place of the rubber flex hose between the short steel line from the tank and the line that runs along the frame. Then I insulated the steel line from the drivers side floor all the way to the pump, then pump to carb, with rubber fuel line split lengthwise and zip ties. This was 2 or 3 summers ago and still works great. I know there are other ways to keep the steel fuel line cool, and my car is already a clunker, I just could NOT bring myself to the desperation of clipping wood clothes pins all over it as seen in pics posted here long ago:eek:

Greg, in the past working in a shop I have borrowed an auto-dark helmet a couple times just to try it, but was never fixated enough to invest over $125 for one. I always preferred a large shield helmet with the flip tint, so you have a clear lense under the tint and face protection for grinding. Just one of those methods to save a little more time and effort when working for flat rate pay. When they first came out I think you had to change the batteries often, now they are solar/UV rechargeable.

Good eyes Greg:p

I just bought a used one from a buddy of mine, sold new under many different brand names. Thought I would post this link for anyone looking for replacement parts. Mine is the NAPA 83-363. http://www.rps4wd.com/kw/mig/mig.htm Hopefully it should be good enough for my at home needs. I worked over 25 years as a bodyman, the second half of that time was in the truck business. New cab and chassis, company installed the bodies,and repairs, commercial and municipal, and trailer repairs. I got spoiled using all the heavy duty Miller, Hobart, Lincoln,etc. I'm hoping I don't just push this thing down the driveway into the woods in a fit of rage. My buddy said it works great, and is supposed to be able to weld up to 5/16 inch plate. We'll see. I think it should be fine for fixing my body mounts and floor when I get a bigger garage and do the 'teardown', and I won't have to keep taking my tractor parts to work to weld. The accessories he GAVE me are worth more than I paid him for the welder-36 inch tall argon bottle (3/4 full), clamps,angle magnets,wire brushes,hammers,etc. and a nearly new variable auto-dark helmet with extra replacement lenses. I actually felt guilty taking it, especially the surround sound speakers set his wife said I needed for my downstairs. Their neighborhood was having a 10 house yard sale, and he just wanted to get rid of it all. At least I know that parts are still available for this welder. Of course my wife thinks I probably emptied the bank accounts to buy these 'necessities', I had to prove her wrong with the ATM receipt.

Recently my inline filter right out of the tank clogged up with no sputtering or warning until 20 seconds before the engine stalled. No spare filter with me (DUH!) so I did a quickie roadside fix, just put in a piece of new hose in place of filter. Then later at home when I was under the front end I noticed my glass fuel pump bowl has some of that gunk in it. I thought it was because of me using the fuel STA-BIL which I think has alcohol in it. I thought it maybe loosened up stuff in the tank, which has been drained and checked. Now I can blame the poor quality of gas sold in this region:D That gas also makes you cuss at a cheapie lawnmower that has no filter. I bought a couple new inline filters to have a spare with me, the clear plastic ones I'm trying for the first time. Right at the tank outlet so heat should not be a factor on the plastic.

Yeah- on these old engines with some miles on them the timing light/timing marks will only get you so far. Here is a trick my late father taught me years ago that I just used recently on my car. Hook up a vacuum gauge to the fitting on the manifold, and turn the distributer back and forth slightly until you have maximum vacuum. This seems to get you close to the best spot no matter where the timing marks are. Tighten distributer hold down and test drive, then maybe advance or retard timing a little (I usually do this step roadside on a steep hill!) until you are happy with it. I am not claiming this is the best method, but it works for me, and just using Dad's 40-50 year old vacuum gauge still in the original box with all the adapters gives me personal satisfaction. Jeff

Thanks Johnny S, that works. For the last 4 years or so that I have been searching ebay, I have never had to type in what to exclude from the list, I just clicked on my 'favorites' icon I had set up for 1951 Plymouth.

Maybe it's just my computer, but something weird is goin' on. Now when I do an ebay search and type in say "1951 Plymouth" or "1948 Plymouth", I get the listings for those cars and parts but also Neon, Road Runner, Voyager, Barracuda, GTX,etc. thrown into the mix. It adds a couple more pages to scroll thru now. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it maybe a problem on their end? I first noticed this I think yesterday morning. I know it would be a waste of time to tell THEM about it. I have a couple cents worth of disposable income to spend on parts, and it is more time consuming now. Hope it is a temporary thing. Just letting off a little steam here, Thanks, Jeff

It always seems that the simplest things can give me the most hassle. Wiper blades are installed OK now. By coincidence I was looking at the back couple pages of my original Plymouth shop manual at the lubrication points. I saw the small pic for the lube points for the wiper pivots on the spindle cover. I removed the screws and added a couple drops of oil, never did it before, was not aware of this. Also, it is always very interesting to read some automotive history/trivia as posted by some of you about the invention of the windshield washers. Thanks, Jeff

I paid $39.95 + tax for my 6V in May 2005 from a local chain. It is 650 cca, and has a classic look to it. They even carry a supply of MoPar, AC Delco, and Autolite heavy duty decals that they stick on a smoothed out section formed into the battery case on the old car batteries. Just a cool little touch I thought.

CarQuest # 353-122 "Classic Wipers" crosses over to the Trico#. Usually I check at the local CarQuest for the less commonly stocked parts. I just got impatient and wanted to go to a Fall Festival/Car Cruise Sunday about 12 miles from home and I knew there was a good possibility of rain. Ever since they built 3 Advance Auto Parts stores within 5 miles of my house, 2 Auto Zones, and a smaller local chain, the CarQuest closes early on Saturday and is not open Sunday, so it was the only place I did not check. It comes complete with wiper and refill, even if I have to bend the tabs to use the refills on my chrome arms I will be happy:). The list price is $13.81 each, I got them for nearly half price that since my employer has an account there. As someone mentioned, Advance could probably order them, but you know that most of the younger counter guys tell you it is not available if it is not in their computer. The kid joked with me and said he didn't think windshield wipers were invented yet in 1951.

I got a number from the parts list section here, Trico # 33-122, but the stores in this area don't have the refill part , only the complete part that attaches to the arm in the 12 inch size and the lower part on mine is riveted on. Is this Trico # still good? There are a couple parts stores a little farther from home I have not checked yet. What are some of you guys using? I don't really want to give up half the chrome on the wiper arms. Car is a 1951 Plymouth Cranbrook, I have an extra set of arms from a 1951 DeSoto that also take a 12 inch blade but are not as wide. Obviously none of these wiper arms are probably original. As of this morning I have no more rubber left on any of the 4 arms I have. Do I really have to buy something this simple by mail order or ebay? I was only about 5 miles from home when I got caught in the rain today, forgot the "Rainex" last time I washed the car.

This is not so surprising http://news.yahoo.com/s/nm/20070907/od_nm/nissan_mug_china_odd_dc_1;_ylt=AohXHOSqiNruE.FMCMbxpIoE1vAI

It is possible the cost of lead is up, possibly enviromental concerns to encourage recycling? My own thoughts- last year at the scrapyard they paid me $1 each for old batteries and never weighed them. Just 2 months ago they weighed the 4 batteries I had and paid me almost $10. I am not going thru that many batteries, some were left with me after I installed new ones for people, and some were taken in for people who just had to get rid of them and didn't want acid in the trunk of their car.

Hey Bob, great pics. Where were the 'Primer Nationals' held? The reason I'm asking is because that newspaper mailbox is very easily recognized by anyone who lives in the Irwin, Greensburg, Latrobe, PA region east of Pittsburgh! I just got done reading mine right before I logged on here. No doubt the car is owned by someone from my area who traveled to the event, probably has the STEELERS logo on the car too.

That AAA towing policy must vary state to state, or by regions. Here in PA if the vehicle is not currently registered, or if State Inspection is more than 30 days expired, they can refuse to tow the vehicle. I think this is probably up to the tow truck driver's discretion to tell AAA (if you don't offer him a $$ tip.)This is what happened to me about 2 years ago when a disabled friend of mine called me to try to do a roadside repair on their car. They were coming home from a specialist doctor's appointment. The tranny was fried, nothing I could do except offer to use my AAA and call for them. Inspection was expired about 6 weeks prior, due to him being in the hospital for an extended time and he forgot to tell his wife or kids to take it for inspection. The car WAS currently registered and insured. The driver saw the expired sticker immediately, and said it was against policy to tow it. We gave the tow truck driver (very young guy barely 21 years old) a $20 bill, and a couple of their daughter's CDs, his choice,and he agreed to tow it approx 18 miles.

My deepest sympathy and condolences to you and your family at this difficult time. You all will be in my prayers. Jeff Ivan

I just replaced my oil gauge flexible hose. I don't usually have too much time or gas to burn before work going to a lot of different places to find 1 hose. The one place that I did go to that makes custom hoses did not have the fittings in stock, and I got the feeling that they didn't want to be bothered with such a small hose. I got a brake hose at the local CarQuest store. The CarQuest brake hose number is # SP5772. It was a little pricey, about $16, but for the time and gas $$ saved, I think it was OK. The new hose is a little bit longer, but now has much less of a kink in it than the original hose. I was surprised how easily the fittings came loose with a shot of 'PB Blaster', nothing is usually smooth sailing on this car. The old hose only seemed to have a couple small dry rot cracks in it until I took it off and saw the back side was nearly split thru, just waiting to pop. I took some pics, but "Photobucket" ain't uploading for me?

Link works now,sorry for my computer stooge-ness

http://jalopnik.com/cars/industry-news/breaking-jim-press-leaves-toyota-takes-vice+chairman-seat-at-chrysler-296940.php

You have to read it to believe it. This could go either way, from worse case scenario to the best thing that could happen. I'll just sit back and watch what develops now. =Jeff= Industry News: BREAKING! Jim Press Leaves Toyota, Takes Vice-Chairman Seat at Chrysler!

I have air shocks on my 1951 Cranbrook P23, rear shock mounts should be the same as a P15. Go to auto parts store and ask for the shocks for 1972-74 Duster/Dart/Demon/Scamp. These should work fine. Not positive but I think the Duster-Dart etc., are the "A" body. It's been about 2 years since I installed mine, I think mine are the Monroe Max-Air. They will take up to 150 psi if you like that 'Moonshiner's Stance', I usually run 70-80 psi. They really do help compensate for my old sagging springs. My private driveway is very rough and I rarely bottom out now, unless I go too fast. =Jeff=

Kinda makes me wonder what is in the 'STA-BIL' fuel stabilizer besides the alcoholic gas line anti freeze, or "dry gas" as it is called here in Western PA. The stuff does seem to work tho. I have brought this up here before and had some disagree with me, but I still am convinced that the gasoline sold in this region only has a shelf life of 2-3 months with no stabilizer added. My 51 Plymouth sat for a lot of this season, and I put almost 100 miles on it this weekend. It did not run quite right even with fresh spark plugs until I topped off the tank with 4 gallons of fresh fuel today ( all I could squeeze in), but still ran better than with no 'STA-BIL' added. I have myself convinced the gas is mostly at fault here because I do the majority of my grass cutting with a diesel tractor, and the gas mower used for trimming seems to run worse and stall out more easily in thick grass as the summer drags on and the 5 gallon can of gas I filled in April or May gets used up. If I had 1/2 of a brain I would add the stabilizer to the can of lawnmower gas as soon as I buy it, and not just put it in the '51. Also today I drove the Plymouth about 35 miles and the heat riser was not making noise anymore, and the temp gauge seemed to behave. Must be the new plugs, fresh oil, and black wax buffed on to the barely presentable paint job. She must have felt a little neglected this summer.