55 Fargo

Thanx Shel, BTW got my air filter back today, glass blasted,painted ,repaired and cleaned, looks great, needs a new Mopar decal though.........Fred

According to this calculator, if you go with a larger diameter tire(aspect), you create a lower rear gear ratio, which is confusing me, or maybe cuz I just got off 4 -12.5 hour shifts in a row.Would you not reduce engine rpm, by having taller tires, as this is my goal, the poormans overdirve situation............Fred

Okay, but is yor diff a 4.11, as mine is, and it revs up very nicely at 50 mph

Thats right Dave, the guys on the Moparts site are using this paint a lot, it does come in quite a few colors, how is the peel, or any fisheyes, runs etc. Lookin mighty fine, giving me ideas for my car, infact if the finishing body work had been done, it would have seen a roller paint job by now...........Fred

But are you running a 4.11 rearend, did you have on P205 70 or 75 tires, the tire size difference is as follows, P205 70 15 =26.29 inches in diameter, the P205 75 15 is 27.10, the P225 75 15 tire is 28.3 inches in diameter, this is quite a difference and could help a bit with a low geared rear end.........Fred

Hi Greg, this is very interesting to me, I currently have on my temp tires, they are P205 70 R 15. At a speedo reaing of 65 mph the car is going about 52 I figure. I also have a 3 spd and 4.11 rearend. Would getting these tires on my 47 Chrylser be an option, for fronts and rear, or could I go with 215 up front and 225 on the rears. Any chance you could send a pic of the tires on your car. I am in a boat like some of the others, trying to get my car road worthy, don't want to start making all sorts of changes and end up not finishing the car...........Fred

Lookin good Dave, did you thin the paint, or wetsand between coats. This will look real good when polished with a buffer and polished, should come out like glass.............Fred

Shawn, if you want black wires with original ends order from Roberts or Bernbaums, about $20 for the set, but heck if you really want cloth it's your car, do what you feel is best. You could also get the ever dry kit, for the sparkplugs, it will keep em dry in the evnt rain leaks in over them. The thing is it's your car, it's nice to get advice, but ultimately you have do what you really want to do, and get to live with the results. Get your brakes in condition, get the car running well, drive the car, see how you how like the car, then do your mods after that, at your own pace, the disc brake idea is always a good one, and is reversible if need be. Happy motoring..........Fred

Brendan sent you a PM, and replied to your post on 40s Canadian Chrysler

Thanx Brendan, it still has a long way to go, trust me, as soon as I finish cleaning painting, seamsealing the under car. I plan on rewiring the car, painting the dash and window garnishes, as well as giving the interior floor another coat of paint. I want to then finish all the mech items, new gas tank, exhaust work, front end work and alignment, new tires and balancing, and repaint engine............Fred

Seats,Seats,Seats, course it gots seats,a little tattered but seats and no more coke box:D . In fact, someone mentioned that possibly K car seats, may fit in this car as a replacement, till I can afford to have these ones redone. Even thought of going with buckets up fron, and through covers over the back seat, or just throw covers over both seats for a while. I think the "Winter In Manitoba" should be revived , but not yet, man I am still in the summer mode here...........Fred

Eric , it was from a farmer in Langdon North Dakota, he was a relative of a friend of my Dads, not sure the origin, or how old it is, but thought it would add a little spice to the front tag..........Fred

I promise I won't, I mentioned to my wife that you first got your car in 1968, and finished I think in the last 5 years. Her comment was, oh well what you figure you need to get yours finished so quickly.I then told her you had another old car, so you had no reason to rush at that point. Funnything, she didn't mention I should get a road ready car while I work on this one..HeHeHe............Fred

Hi all, fall is approaching fast here in Manitoba, been cool the last few days. This morning I repaired the broken gas line fitting to my fuel pump. So I decided to go for a test drive on my road, the farm in the back is my place,(not really a farm, just a country yard and old Chryslers). The car looks better in pics, needs a lot of body work yet:o , before paint, the bumpers need chroming also, oh a nice set of Coker whitewall radials would be nice.................Fred

Hi all, on our fuel pumps, the brass fittings, that the fuel line attaches to, do these also unscrew from the fuel pump. The reason I ask this is, my fuel line that goes from fuel pump to the carb is leaking right at the fuel pump fitting, so far it will not unturn, tried 3 times. If the brass fitting also unscrews from the fuel pump body, I can cut the fuel line at the fitting and unscrew the hole fitting, this way I can remove the fuel line fitting, that is seized in the brass fitting. This needs to be changed pronto, any ideas, this sucker is seized up tight, how about a torch:D , nah didn't think so. Doing something like that reminds me of this person in L.A. several years ago was pumping gasoline with a shop vac, well it exploded and he and his family are dead.........................................Fred

Ed, the gravity feed HVLP would have a hard time flowing upside down or on it's side. I have one of these, but a siphon feed hvlp should be okay. I really like painting with the sponge rollers, it goes on real slick, you can paint corners, tight spots, around the mounts/brackets, quite easily. It's not as easy to paint these areas as a spray gun would be, but there is no overspray and mess either, or very little of it.I will keep plugging away at it, hope to be done in a week or so, it's a big job. The inner fenders/wheel wells, I am sure I will use my spray gun for these areas. Although I have cleaned painted under coated my interior floors, I am going to put another coat of black Tremclad on it, definately going with a sponge roller, tried a test spot in there, goes on great, and no overspray, will also do the interior roof...........Fred

Bob, I did have the car up on stands, makes access fairly good, but doing it like this is always tougher than if it was off the frame and staring you in the face on it's side. But I will get her all done.I figure it will take until the end of the month, as I can't go at it everyday..............Fred

Hi all , okay so it's not perfect,and I missed a few spots, it's nly the first of 2to 3 coats of paint, and it is harder to clean and paint an undercarriage with the body on frame and no hoist. I cleaned up quite a bit under the car yesterday and this morning, did paint a side. Used semi-gloss black Tremclad Rust Paint, applied with sponge roller, sponge brush and a rattle can. The sponge roller works slick, you can paint into tight spots fairly easy, and it looks like a sprayed finish. Next will be to complete the whole undercarriage, after 1 coat, I am thinking of applying the seam sealer to the joints then, or I may wait until the last coat, the seam sealer is black, it's the caulking style, I also have the brushable seam sealer for the difficult spots. All in all , I am happy with the early results, but this is a very labor intensive endeavor, would be many times easier body off, and on a rotisserie. Just the way it is in my corner of the world............Fred

Best wishes and a speedy recovery John, hope all goes well, and we see you back on here when you are feeling up to it.....Fred

Bob, sorry to hear of your great loss, I know our thoughts and prayers will be with you and your family on this forum.Take care of yourself and your family, we will be here if you need our support.................Fred

Trouble like this is what we thrive on on this website. Sounds like a potential great car in the making, this new project outta fire you up, I say go with the SBC and T350 Trans. I do plan on coming down and seeing this work in progress, if you in fact do buy it. I figure I should come down and give you at least a couple days work, for all the free advice you have given me. Today a friend of mine he has a 62 Olds Starfire Convertible, and a 48 Chrysler Windsor. He figures my work is coming along okay, his cars according to him were worse than mine in the beginning. So what you are thinking of getting sounds pretty decent, any chance we can see some pics..............All the best Fred

You know Dave, it's not as purdy, as a lot of work I have seen others do. This area was reall pain in the "you know where", to work in weld in or anything in, from the pic it appears as an easy spot to get into, but it's not. Welding on my back upside down is a pain, plus I am not a welder by no means. But I do think I could pull of better work with an autodarkening helmet, the welding helemt I have is cheap and is hard to see my welding through, if I am at the wrong work angle, lighting behind me etc.This patch will be seam sealed and painted over to make it acceptable.....Fred

Here is a pic of a panel I made and welded into place. It is a very tight spot, hard to work in, very hard to weld in upsidedown, Next I will clean up the area and give it a coat of fibreglass filler, then prime, paint, undercoat.............Fred

Hi all, last night decided to pull the air filter and see if my choke was working or not. The linkage seemed stiff, so loosened them up a bit, fired up engine, and it started first crack. I have noticed it has beenharder to cold start lately. This morning it was about 68 in the garage, decided to check choke again, this time hard to start again and the choke wasn't fully closed. Then I noticed each time I fired it up, I could see and orange glow from the back off the engine. Turned off the shop lights, aha, the choke wire was short, at the choke solenoid, I then tighted it up and the choke is working beautiful again. I am real lucky, having a spark tthat close to the carb is a recipe for disaster, someone/something is looking after me and this car. I do think I should replace the choke wire, any idea if it requires and special heat resiatant type wire , the wire looks like 12 gauge to me also.........Fred

Another thing Norm, as I mentioned, do you have access to both sides of the panel where the screw holes are, if so use a wire wheel, grinder, sander with 80 grit, clean up both sides. Then use phosphoric acid and give it an acid prep. Fibreglass the are from behind using resin and and cloth, apply a few coats of resin, on the outside surface use filler or fibreglass filler, apply thin coats sand and feather edge, primer and spot paint. Norm this would give you a temporoary fix, if you can't weld it in. The thing is it can be repaired with welding at a later date, when you get that fancy paint job on your entire car...............Fred