bamfordsgarage

The cross bars are screwed into the roof 12 places (and supported on 4 curves and the drip rails), the longitudinal rails bolted to the cross bars, the chair and rider are both belted to the rails. Safer than it looks, but still relieved we encountered no local constabulary on our travels 🙂. Here are a few more photos...

Well, that's interesting. 31 views on the thread but only 6 hits on the YouTube. Clearly not a compelling initial post. I wonder if this screen grab will stir up more interest...

It was a very fun day! Joy Ride

Had I been thinking, I would have emailed you early in the week to ensure we would cross paths. I bought very little at the flea market but that was intended, as I have no big projects or needs right now. We watched the cars driving into the show field for an hour (and wow, was that great) and walked the show for about an hour. They we high-tailed it back to Canada to catch our flight home from Toronto.

HI Rich, I was sorry to miss you at Hershey. I had you down for Orange Field OAD 7-8, but when I wandered by Thursday AM I only saw a modern vehicle but no people around or parts for sale 😕. Was I too late or at the wrong spot? Chris

For those who do Facebook. Apologies for the near-total lack of Mopar content ☹️ https://www.facebook.com/EdmontonAntiqueCarClub/

From here, it looks like the first photo is where you disconnect. If that's not enough, then disconnect the second. If you are disconnecting more than one connection, I suggest you mark which ends connect connect to what. A dab with a paint pen on each component fr'instance.

It does. Thank you Robin.

A legendary attribute of early Rolls-Royce Motorcars was the ability to balance a coin on the radiator whilst the engine was purring quietly. While there is neither a R-R or 5-shilling coin in this video, here is friend Jerry's 1950 Plymouth with a Canadian Loonie riding the fresh air vent, radiator and cylinder head!

Fair point, and while most folks wouldn't, some encourage it 🙂. As it happens, a favourite annual event for me is the so-called Inter-Club Ride/Drive which is coming up May 25 (since 2017, Covid-excepted). Four clubs converge on a casino parking lot adjacent to a quiet industrial area on Saturday AM. Basically a "cross-cultural" car show with no public spectators and an unusual twist... No pressure, but owners are encouraged to offer a ride experience in their cars to others, and many choose to exchange drives as well. This is, for me, a total hoot. I've given many people their first Model T experience, riding and/or driving, and had the pleasure of wheel time in a Bugeye Sprite, Tesla X, '50s Rolls Royce, Model A roadster, Triumph TR4A, NSU Prinz, Tesla S, electric moped, MGB, '53 Buick and many more. Here is a photo gallery from the 2022 Ride/Drive. First photo is a young fellow club member giving a Rolls-Royce collector (front seat) and two sports car guys their first Model T ride in my 1926 Touring. The Rolls-Royce fellow brought the black and yellow RHD rig seen further into the gallery — and with somebody else at the wheel!

More helpful posts. Thank you all. Wise words from Booger, and in fact Plymothy Adams sent me a link to one of Randy's blog posts earlier today. Man, what an informative site. Very very helpful. Sad to read he passed several years ago. Loren, I get your point that the factory setup works well and why try to re-invent the wheel — in this case, the car is not mine, it doesn't have the full factory setup and hardware now, and my goal here is to gain a working understanding of how this particular install should be operated, strictly as an aid to the sale of the car. Having said that, I've had an R-10 overdrive in the garage for years, intended for my '47 D25. This situation with my friend's car is inspiring me to get on with that project. That unit too has no lockdown switch, and I favour Kencombs suggestion of an override that does not require a full-throttle lunge.

Thank you Robin. When I have experimentally pulled on the handle at speed in OD, it didn't want to move and I feared some mechanical mayhem if I insisted. To clarify: you can/do pullout the OD handle when the car is in OD and in motion at above the kick-in speed (and, of course, under load)? And if so, does the OD kick out immediately or wait until the accelerator is released?

Thank you Greg, on first reading that seems to make sense. I will study it up further and check the wiring further. But first a 200 mile round trip to the Red Deer AB swap meet tomorrow. Looking forward to the o/d on all that four lane.

Thanks guys. This particular car has no kick-down switch installed. I have since found some wiring and a relay and will investigate further. On my original question about shifting out of O/D without slowing down to the kick-in speed, the following note is on a George-Asche hand-written wiring diagram: "When moving cable in or out have the car pulling (not coasting) or have car stopped"

I am helping a friend sell his low-mileage 1950 Plymouth. The car was parked for 2-3 years, but fortunately had a fuel stabilizer treatment back then and last week started and runs fine. An overdrive was installed two owners back. I believe it was an R-10 type, can't be sure. In any event, electric controls were never part of the install. The fellow who sold the car to my friend gave him a tutorial and we used the overdrive regularly, including one very successful run down to the PNW in 2016. Anyway, friend and I have both forgotten the operating sequence for shifting out of overdrive. Shifting in is easy: push in the handle, let up the gas briefly above kick-in speed and we're in. Shifting down needs help... yes we can coast down to below kick-in speed, but that is counterproductive when approaching a hill (the period manual instructs the driver to engage the electric kick-down but that is not an option here). We believe there was a non-electric technique for shifting from O/D to direct while at speed, but I would rather ask the experts than chance doing harm to the car. Is there a safe technique using only the handle and gas pedal? Or are we remembering something that never actually happened?

I too favour the smaller driving lights. Your big boys compete for attention with the headlights and the overall effect suffers, IMO. If I owned that lovely DeSoto, I would install the smaller lamps, not far above the bumper and comfortably within the bumperettes as with my '47 D25 below. Too close together and the grille is crowded over. My two driving lamps don't add much to the night driving experience (and no problem, the headlights are H6006 halogen sealed beams), but they do contribute to the car's rugged road-warrior vibe, a look both pleasing and accurate.

That is a tough situation. I’m new to your story… is the engine in the car and running now? If so and you landed a decent shop to do the rebuild, would you do the R & R yourself or prefer to drop off the car and pickup when done?

Thanks for asking. This link should do it: https://p15-d24.com/topic/28444-arctic-adventure/#comment-284066 The photos show up as thumbnails but expand enough to do the trick. It's a pretty long thread — kinda felt we were taking half the forum with us up there with plenty of commentary back and forth. One of my favourite trips for sure and great fun to share. Here are a couple photos: On the 112 mile ice road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk, our ultimate destination. The ice road is no longer, having been replaced several years ago with an all-weather gravel route. Second photo is in Tuk at the furthest-north point one can drive in mainland Canada. The Beaufort sea is directly behind the Dodge.

Thanks Rich, that was a very fun trip. One of our many highlights was meeting up with several forum members along the way. First photo below is at a member's place near DC where we left the car for several months before picking up again and heading for the Gulf Coast. That's Rodney on the left, my traveling buddy Jerry, the next three more forum members (one of whom, Jim, kindly stored the car for us) and me on the right. We all six of us piled into the car to go for lunch in a neighbouring town. Apologies that all last names, and two of four first names, are lost to the sands of time. Final two pics are Camp 47 Dodge at 2010 Hershey. Squint carefully and you can detect a bit of shine in the paint!

A few more photos: Alberta prairies with the Rocky Mountains in the distance; We dropped Ryan's Model A rad off at the repair shop on the way; Bob and his dad are restoring this lovely '31 Imperial and we stopped in at the body shop to deliver a few items; This postwar Chrysler was in the swap meet car corral, but no price was listed.

Friday AM, Feb 10, Edmonton, AB: Four hardy souls set off for Lethbridge for the Early Bird Swap Meet on Saturday; our trusty steed my rusty and ragged '47 D25 Sedan. Clearly, many fingers had been crossed and much wood was knocked as the old heap never missed a beat. We splurged on a Motel 6 and arrived at the event's shiny new home at the supposed 8:00 opening bell. "Supposed" in that there was no line-up and already lots of shoppers roaming the aisles. We brought back some treasure — while the elders bought mostly books, young Ryan is building a Model T Speedster and checked several items off his wish list. We got home Saturday evening, everyone got roughly equal wheel time and the trip was an unqualified success. Three of us made a similar trip down to Lethbridge for the 2022 swap meet. Last year the Dodge was in the throes of a valve job and we were forced to travel modern. Total distance 691 miles Target cruising speed 50-52 mph, moving average 42.6 mph, top speed 59.0 mph. Fuel consumed 187.63 litres = 41.3 CdnGal = 49.6 USGal Gas mileage 16.72 mpgCdn = 13.9 mpgUS. The roof rack is no friend of fuel economy. Facebookers can view more photos at: https://www.facebook.com/EdmontonAntiqueCarClub

Again, thanks for all who have contributed to the thread. Many worthwhile suggestions, particularly as the ignition and fuel systems have been largely neglected over my many years of ownership. A deeper dive into both is forthcoming this winter. In the meantime, I continued my quest for the Magic Bullet... gotta be something easy and quick I can do without all that work, right? In my experience, Sudden Onset can mean Something Just Changed and if we're lucky it's Something Easy to Fix. I consulted with a local club member, a retired independent mechanic who cut his teeth on '50s-70's cars. Sounds like fuel he said, possibly a blockage that drifts in and out of trouble. Recommendation #1: pull the top off the carb and look for junk in the float chamber... tried that, clean as a whistle. Recommendation #2: pull out the mixture screw and give a shot of air with a rubber-tipped gun to hopefully clear any blockage in the idle circuit or whatever... Bingo! Engine now starts, idles, runs like a champ. I have two test drives under my belt and about to leave for the third. If all stays well, great. Otherwise, if the problem returns I'll roll up my sleeves and approach it in a more thorough manner. Again, thanks to all for your comments and suggestions. Much appreciated.

Thanks all for your replies. I think maybe I haven't got my key points across: 1. The idle speed varies up and down like a slow wave (peak and trough over a period of a few seconds) — this is a little hard to tell from the audio, but is clear when one views the tachometer and vacuum gauge at 0:48 and 1:02 in the linked video. 2. The issue is intermittent... Yesterday going for breakfast, no problem: starts, idles, runs like a champ. A couple hours later on a Home Depot run, the engine won't idle, wants to stall, needs throttle blips to stay running. It's like two different cars and I don't know which one is in the garage this morning. While I'm no mechanic, this behaviour does not sound consistent with stuck valves (did 'em this spring) or loose wiring/carbon tracks etc. I would really like a better sense of the potential cause before digging into individual components. PS: To clarify for Soth122003, mine is a Canadian-built D25, so essentially a Plymouth P15 with fancy name plates and no fluid drive.

Hello all — my trusty D25 has developed an intermittent idle problem, and I'm hoping the hive mind here can point me towards the cause... This is a maybe-today, maybe-not-today issue. The car starts, idles and runs smoothly most of the time, but occasionally lapses into a period of variable, rough idle that wants a higher idea speed setting and is still prone to stalling. The plugs are recent; the plug wires, distributor cap and condenser are many years old,. I just swapped in a NORS vintage 6-volt ignition coil. HERE is a short video illustrating the issue. Key points: 0:11 and 0:24 revs ramp up and down; 0:48 revs ramp up and down on the tach; and 1:02 revs ramp up and down on the vacuum gauge. I suspect the carburation/fuel system. The vacuum gauge registers 11 inches at rough idea, 15 inches at smooth. All comments and suggestions most welcome!

Well, the valve guide removal test on my parts engine went just fine. My spare air-hammer bits were all too short to push the guide out fully but no matter — my little air hammer wouldn't budge them anyway. Fortunately, a few well-placed blows with a sturdy hammer did the trick, and as b4ya predicted, the protruding guide broke off with little effort. I would expect the guides in my runner engine will move at least as easily. Ken, knowing what to look for led me to crossover charts for both intake and exhaust valves, the latter with 0.002 greater ID. Charts below. I'm sourcing them now. Thanks again to all who posted and Sniper, I'll put that snazzy tool on the list for when I do enjoy "...money for tools is no object..." Don't hold your breath.