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Posted

To Greybeard, Chucky07 Joelokie and the Pilothouse gang.

Hi, did a test run using Rusto Enamel Elcheapo Gloss Black Paint, reduced with 25 % medium acrylic enamel reducer, shot the paint with a cheap Harbourfreight style gravity feed HVLP spraygun.

The results are great, there were no runs, no fisheyes, and very minimal orange peel.

I did no prep on this old 48 Chrysler hood that has been in yard for years, it is rough, I scuffed it up, blew the dust off with air, then sprayed 3 coats wet-on-wet.

This paint is super glossy, is as smooth as silk to the touch, my pics do not do it justice at all and yes my eyes are still good.

It took about 10 hours to dry, as it is really humid here, and the base paint is oil based rust enamel.

With the proper prepped surface, and with also adding DOI wetlook enamel hardner, this paint could come off very well, and cheap too boot, for guys like me on a shoe string budget.

Black is not the easiest color to test with as it picks up every imperfection and flaw. Surprisingly, there was very little dust in the paint, while it dried on a sheet on the garage floor.............Fred

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Posted
gives me hope..since i'm broke..and really dont want the faded ugly armour yellow on my truck...im thinkin a nice hemi orange..:D

as stated in the p15-d24 forum, I suggest setting the hood out in the weather for a while and see how the paint stands the test of time. If no uv protectants, it may not last very long. Lets hope it does though. Bud

Posted

Again Bud, for the price of the paint, you can buy a cheap polisher, and give her the buff a few times a year, I don't leave my vehicle out in the sun all day, but I no some have no choice but to leave there outside in the elements.

Posted
Again Bud, for the price of the paint, you can buy a cheap polisher, and give her the buff a few times a year, I don't leave my vehicle out in the sun all day, but I no some have no choice but to leave there outside in the elements.

I agree, one can polish it to get back the shine, but it does take off paint each time. I just wanted the less experienced in the group to know what they potentially might be looking at up the road. I was a bodyman and painter for over 30 years and remember the disappointment of so many people who got an inexpensive paint job somewhere else and came to us a year later asking what could be done to fix it. Sometimes penny-wise can be pound foolish. I put a very inexpensive basecoat on my Plymouth, but put a good clearcoat over the top to protect it. Bud :D :D

Posted

Fred, looks like you have it going for you on the paint. There is a line of tractor and industrial enamel paint available here at Atwoods farm supply store called Van Sickle that I have used in the past for painting trailers, and some other things, that goes on great, and holds up well. It reduces with naptha, and they also sell the hardner. I am painting my b1b 108 a decidedly farm truck theme, John Deere green, and trimming in John Deere yellow. I have used Nason and Martin-Senour (sp?) paint in the past, and planned on using one or the other for this truck also. I went to have these colors mixed in Martin Senour paint at NAPA....no problem, they can make a perfect match for john Deere colors....at $160.00 a gallon. With the Van Sickle paint selling at $29.00 a gallon (a pint of hardner is $16.00, and a gallon of naptha is about the same), I decided I was going to try the tractor/industrial paint first, which I have used for various things before, on my truck. It works great, very glossy, no runs, no orange peel. I will get my daughter to make some pics and upload them when she comes over. I am also thinking (as someone has pointed out), this truck will be kept garaged most of the time, and even if the paint wears out on it fast, it is no big deal (or expense) to put more paint on it, but I think from how well it has held up on other things that if kept waxed it will probably last ok. I know it is the easiest application paint to use I have had any dealings with.

http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tractorvs.html

Nice job, Fred. Keep me informed how your painting is going. Till Later, Joel

Posted

I used gloss black Van Sickle industrial enamel paint to paint a trailer for my father-in-law 3 years ago. I was going by there after posting the paint link this morning so I stopped to take a look at the trailer to see how it's held up. It has sat since I painted it, and aside from being dusty it still looks good, no oxidation, and hasn't faded at all that I can tell, is still glossy, and no blisters or peeling anywhere. It has sat in the shade, mostly, so i don't know what 3 years in the sun would have done. I do know that it, (direct sunlight), will fade about any paint on any vehicle left full time in the sun here in Oklahoma, including a factory red 1999 Ford pickup I own, which has to be waxed a couple times a year.

In my particular case, on this particular vehicle, this paint will work fine for me. I don't go to car shows, and all my crusing is done on rural highways here in Oklahoma. I think this inexpensive paint method is a viable solution for guys that have limited money to spend and want to do their own painting for the fun of it, or to gain the the experience. Some of these vehicles (mine anyway) were about one last trip from the scrap yard, and will never have a lot of monetary value anyway, thus are excellant vehicles to "play" with as far as paint and body work. If this paint hasn't worked out in a few years I'll enjoy painting it again.

I have a nice 46 Ford pickup, and a 50 Chevy Fleetline that I used Nason brand enamel paint on, and it is also a good low cost paint, and has held up very well on both vehicles. A show, or more valuable vehicle would certainly warrant considering better paint, and/or probably even having a professional job done. When it gets right down to it, it is probably cheaper, (and no doubt easier), to find and buy vehicles that already been completely restored, but for me personally the fun is in doing it myself. I guess everyone has to figure what works best for them in their particular situation. Joel

Posted

Has anyone used the Duplicolor paint shop method? If you have, how did it come out? I will be painting my B1B soon and am still undicided which way to go. I am not looking for a show quality paint job as the truck will have some imperfections. I hope to have a nice clean looking " old truck " that people will be able to touch and lean on. I know that black shows imperfections, but it is going to be black and will have white lettering that would have been found on my father's bussines trucks when he had a plumbing, heating and electrical contracting company called -- DUMAIS BROS. Thanks

Posted

The Dupli-color paint, is a Lacquer based paint system, not sure I would go tat route, for me, would rather stick with a single stage acrylic enamel or a single stage urethane.

I only no one person who has used this system in all fairness, the paint job looks good, but this guy also painted 2 cars with ruto paint, the rusto painted vehicles, look everybit as good as the Dupli-color paint job, not quite as shiny though.........Fred

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