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Posted

Does anyone know if the automatic choke that sits on the manifold is suppose to show continuity between the body of the choke and the hot wire screw on it?

When I put the old one back on my engine it would spark showing that it was grounding out so I quickly disconnected it especially since it's near the gas/carb. . This was a couple yr's ago.

Sitting in the garage doing small jobs I decided to check out the choke I got off another manifold and it too shows continuity on the ohm meter. I plan to break this thing down and clean it through and through but wanted to ask this first so I can check it out if it's not supposed to be touching somewhere inside. Read that it wasnt in one of the books awhile back but wanted ya'lls tips on these if anyone has done the same thing or had the same problem.

Before my driver broke down it didnt have any type of choke hookup and you could tell it was needed. I'd like to put one on once i get to tearing the manifold off, head etc. without adding a manual choke. Thanks, Ed

Posted

Thanks Tim, read that too and wiggled that area of the choke while hooked up and saw no change like it could have been barely touching, must be grounding on inside, will find out for sure soon. Guess pics of one broke down wouldnt hurt for others down the road.

Posted

shel, if that's the case then it is getting the full swing to nothing with the needle on my meter. Must be good but I must have had it grounding out on the manifold. Matter of fact i dont think i even used a gskt when I put it back on last time. I guess the body isnt supposed to touch the manifold in any way. This means it will need insulated washers with something to keep the manifold hold down bolts from touching it along with the brass nuts. Can see this will be fun. Thanks again for the info, jotting all this down ;)

Posted

Ed...the choke has but one wire hook up..that means for the solenoid to energize the other end of the internal coil must go to ground on the engine..

The asbestos type gasket is there to prevent loss of ambient temp within the housing to enable the bi-metal to get the full effect of the manifold heat...

Posted

PS..one other item..if you need another gasket..you may have to go to a shop that services boiler etc..they have a gasket material called GARLOCK..it is made for these type high heat application...they used this stuff on ship repair all the time...

Posted

My automatic choke on my '48 dodge is not working, I have power to the unit but the arm does not move when I hit the starter. I have it adjusted the way the manual says but the solenoid just doesn't kick in. Is there any way to repair it or does it have to be replaced? :confused: Thanks DW

Posted

I would try to measure it with an ohm meter..may be just a faulty ground on the engine..loose connector at the screw head..due to normal wear..if wire is loose maybe you can just solder it..else it may have just bit the big one an opened internally within the coil...

Posted

Tim, The screw is tight and the bolts that mount it to the manifold are tight. I did notice that someone put two washers under it and it doesn't have a heat gasket also there seems to be a little gasket, under the metal tap that the screw goes to, that has a split in it... Would that cause it to ground out? And is it replaceable, plus if the coil is bad is there anyway to repair it or is it shoot?? Thanks DW

Posted

Shel, The screw is about 1/4 of an inch long and one of my studs is gone and has a bolt holding it down the other one has the brass nut on a stud. Do they have to be brass? or does it matter? I was able to take the choke off today with no problem. Thats when I noticed it doesn't have a gasket between it and the manifold and it was up on washers... DW

Posted

Is there anything special about the manifold where the choke mounts? Can I mount one on a p-15 manifold? I have all the linkages and a choke unit, but I don't know if the manifold will accept it. Is it posible to just drill and tap holes to mount it and eliminate the hand choke?

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