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Steering box question


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Any suggestions as to where I can get a completely rebuilt steering box for my B1B108 truck? I really don't want to have to send my existing box out to be rebuild because I am driving the truck fairly regularly now and I really enjoy it, so I don't want the down time.

The truck tracks pretty true, but does have a little play and it is adjusted as tight as it can go without binding. The biggest problem comes when I am driving highways that have those rain groves or are just plain bumpy. I really get a lot of road wander. I am assuming this is not normal.

Also, do I have to replace the steering column when I replace the box?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Charles Furman

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Charles,

First, congrats on a great looking woodie. As to your steering box, unless it is totally worn out, it should still be adjustable in the frame. The issue involves pulling four small bolts out of the lower end of the box, draining the fluid and removing a thin metal shim or two, then re-buttoning it all up. This is not a difficult job, and in light of all the work you have already accomplished, should be a cake walk.

As for your second question, yes - you must remove the steering wheel and the steering column in ordet to change the steering box - yet another reason to adjust the old box instead swapping it out.

If you decide to tackle the job, let me know and I'll gladly walk you throuh the process. It is not difficult. Lots of luck.:)

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Charles-I started the exact same process you're considering for the same reasons in my '49 1 ton. I cut the project short when I had the box almost out of my truck. The good 53 steering box that I had just removed from a parts truck appeared to have a different bolt pattern on the box mount ears. If you notice there is more of an angle on the 51-53 style steering wheels than those found in the 48-50 where the steering wheels are more vertical. I'm STILL in the same situation, but I did dismantle another known good 52 box with the intent of placing those parts in my 49 housing after the driving season is over here in the Northeast. If that doesn't work I'll send mine out for a rebuild. Like you I don't want any downtime or miss on out on buying this $4+ gas. You may also want to check your drag link for play-I just purchased a used one from another member here, and although I thought mine was good, the one I bought is from a heavier truck and is much tighter-made a huge difference. Hopefully someone here can verify what I found so that it doesn't happen to you. Good luck-Mike

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Charles-it was both-one of the ball jointed ends had some play in it, and since I believe it was a unit from a half ton it had a thinner diameter bar stock than the one that I bought. I believe it was probably flexing under a load with the 7:50 16's on the 6 hole Budd rims since this is a 1 ton truck. Mike

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I bought it from Merle Coggins-he may be able to tell you. My truck is a 1 ton, and the link that came off it appears to have been made from an old tie rod! I'm pretty sure tho that those found on a half ton are of a lighter material than those on the 1 tons. I think if you get about the 1.5 ton rating they are even heavier material and won't fit the smaller trucks due to the diameter of the end shafts. Mike

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That link came off of an axle assembly that I got from Denise Tripp. As I recall her truck is a '52 3/4 ton. (They put a Dakota front clip under it and used the entire Dakota drive train.) Acording to my parts book the part number is the same for 1/2 - 1 ton trucks in all series (1-4). Maybe they beefed them up through the years but kept the same P/N?

Merle

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