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Posted

Hi all, currently my engine is running fine, timing is now set at 2 degrees ATDC, as per spec, too cool lately to see if that is the overheat culprit, engine runs at 165 right now.

My engine cold starts well intermittently , but if you don't get her to fire the first crack, she floods, you have to press peddle to floor she immediately fires up, and clears.

My idle, sometimes idles as she wants, and sometimes is running fast, especially after a highway run.

I did recently set my float down a bit, but it's the same symptom as before, the linkage is not binding or catching, is on tight with no slop.

But when the idle is a little high, after being warmed up, I can push on the idle screw and she settles down, till I let go, and I have no slack in the linkage.

Any ideas, I have done a carb flood search, the carb was rebuilt 2 YO, does something need to be done on it again..........Fred

Posted

Hi shel, I think your on the right track, this is the factory correct carb for my engine, which is a 218 longblock.

Possibly the accelerator circuit is sticking, and/or the needle seat and float may have issues, this carb is clean and was rebuilt..........Fred

Posted

Put my hand over the carb, it about sucked my palm in and stalled every time.

Don't think I have a manifold leak.

I reset electric choke again, used carb spray on idle cam, it idles down nice now, reset idle speed and mixture.

I also have the heatrsier working pretty good now.

One off thread ??, should the heater valve be open or closed in summer for best cooling.....................Fred

Posted

Fred,

If you don't need the heat, it won't hurt to turn it off. If you have the control cable on the dash, just keep it closed to turn off the heat. Thats what I do on mine. You should be able to run the car in summer with the heater off.

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