Front Disk Conversion Complete

[NiftyFifty]

A quick look through my parts manual, and a cross reference through Napa, shows that all B-Series 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks use the same wheel bearings. (1.25" ID inner & .75" ID outer) The 1 ton trucks use different bearings. (1.3125" [1 5/16"] ID inner & .8125" [13/16"] ID outer)

A further search shows that the axles are the same from 1/2 ton thru 1 ton except for a serial number break on B1's and B2's and another change for B3's and 4's. Further looking showed different spindles for each size truck with additional differences for the serial # break. However, the king pins are the same through 1 ton with the exception of the serial # break.

Depending on what your truck's serial number is, I would think you could swap in a set of spindles from a 3/4 or 1/2 ton truck as long as they match the serial # break so that the king pins match up. I have an axle in my B2C parts truck that I could pull the spindles from. I'd have to check the serial # on that truck to see where it falls in the # break. I also have a front axle from a B3C that I could pull the spindles from if you need them. My standard parts pricing would apply. (Reimburse shipping costs and consider making a donation to the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation at www.firstgiving.com/merle )

Merle

Much appreciated Merle, I will see what my options are once I get the kit and the rotors. I can't see any real reason why a bearing swap wouldn't work if I can find the righ mix. The shipping costs would likely be a bit high to Manitoba and unfortunately the parts truck I just picked up is a 1 ton as well, so no swapping those spindles in either.

I'm amzed somebody out there hasn't found the easy answer to this issue yet without the swap or machining down...but thats the other 2 options.

Thanks again!

[NiftyFifty]

Have any member sucessfully used their 1 ton spindles without machining? I realised last night to machine them correctly means taking off the threaded portion as well and then having to have it re-threaded which I'm sure can be done but how much material is left once they get it smooth from the threads then threaded again?

Any chance and Canadian member have 1/2 ton spindles or whole axle laying around. I appreciate the U.S. offers but was trying to avoid an expensive shipping bill.

Thanks

[NiftyFifty]

Anyone find an issue with the brake lines being too short? I couldn't attach the bracket and make them come even near, and without the bracket on a sharp turn the would still be too tight.

Other then that I really should have re-read this thread first, as I used the instructions and then had to take avaerything apart once I realised with my front shock you have to mount the plates like the cars.

So 2 new hoses and 2 dust caps that Napa forgot and I'll be on my way!

[Merle Coggins]

The hoses should fit fine if you got the right ones. Do you have your truck on jack stands under the frame with the axle hanging or are your jack stands under the axle so that the truck's weight is on the springs? If the axle is hanging you'll find the hoses to be a bit tight. Get the springs compressed again and you'll find that the hoses fit well. You will, however, need adapters to attach your 5/16" brake lines to the 1/4" brake hose connection.

Merle

[NiftyFifty]

The hoses should fit fine if you got the right ones. Do you have your truck on jack stands under the frame with the axle hanging or are your jack stands under the axle so that the truck's weight is on the springs? If the axle is hanging you'll find the hoses to be a bit tight. Get the springs compressed again and you'll find that the hoses fit well. You will, however, need adapters to attach your 5/16" brake lines to the 1/4" brake hose connection.

Merle

I've run all new line for the truck, it's 3/16's and so is the brake hose...maybe that Napa Number gives me a different hose in canada, but your right..I do have the axle and springs hanging...never even thought about that! Good Call Merle!

[Merle Coggins]

Must have been 1/4" - 3/16" adapters that I needed then. I have it written down somewhere.

I had someone else ask me the same question about the brake hoses recently. We came to that same conclusion so that's why I asked if the axle was hanging. Once he got weight on the axle all was good. I didn't have any issues because I was supprting the truck under the axle.

By the way, 1/2" E-clips work great to hold the brake hoses into the original holes in the frame. Regular brake hose clips won't work as the frame is too thick.

Merle

[NiftyFifty]

Must have been 1/4" - 3/16" adapters that I needed then. I have it written down somewhere.

I had someone else ask me the same question about the brake hoses recently. We came to that same conclusion so that's why I asked if the axle was hanging. Once he got weight on the axle all was good. I didn't have any issues because I was supprting the truck under the axle.

By the way, 1/2" E-clips work great to hold the brake hoses into the original holes in the frame. Regular brake hose clips won't work as the frame is too thick.

Merle

You mean like the horse shoe style? That's what I had and they were on there tight, but NAPA sent me a hose missing one clip so I have one of those flimseythinner pressure clips I hope will work. I couldn't have my axle on stands as the axle is new too, so it's been sitting on the frame for about 3 weeks now.....NOW it will go on the axle and I'll put my hoses on

[Olddaddy]

I wanted to add a couple of notes to the conversation. My kits will fit what are normally 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. The spindles on these trucks are usually 1 1/4" and 1 3/8". Until very recently I had never seen another spindle diameter, so when someone said they had a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck I sent the appropriate spacer and parts list with bearing numbers. I've had people contact me over the years with 1 ton trucks and have sent them 1 3/8" spacers and never heard back that they had a problem. I suppose it could be they actually had a 3/4 ton, or their 1 ton had 1 3/8" spindles. In any case I am always happy to work with anyone to make the disc conversion work out. However, I rely on the info they give me to suggest options. I don't want anyone ever thinking they have been abandoned or sold a bill of goods that won't work. I don't work that way, never have, never will. If you have a truck with 1 5/16" spindles you are going to have to swap out for 1 1/4" or 1 3/8" to be able to convert to discs using my kit. I've only just learned this thanks to a couple of guys educating me, so I hope they can find what they need. I do have a couple of pair of spindles lined up if anyone needs them. I will sell them for my cost, no markup to get you out of a bind on the conversion you are doing, email me directly at olddaddy@rustyhope.com.

Brake hoses. One important note is that some hoses come with a steel bracket that must be removed to install the kit on your trucks. The original application used the bracket, you will not. I've added the adapter blocks to my parts info since a few of you have run into the size problem from hose to line. Sixty years on it's hard to know what's on all those old trucks, but people keep telling me and I keep learning.

Thanks!!!

[NiftyFifty]

I wanted to add a couple of notes to the conversation. My kits will fit what are normally 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks. The spindles on these trucks are usually 1 1/4" and 1 3/8". Until very recently I had never seen another spindle diameter, so when someone said they had a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck I sent the appropriate spacer and parts list with bearing numbers. I've had people contact me over the years with 1 ton trucks and have sent them 1 3/8" spacers and never heard back that they had a problem. I suppose it could be they actually had a 3/4 ton, or their 1 ton had 1 3/8" spindles. In any case I am always happy to work with anyone to make the disc conversion work out. However, I rely on the info they give me to suggest options. I don't want anyone ever thinking they have been abandoned or sold a bill of goods that won't work. I don't work that way, never have, never will. If you have a truck with 1 5/16" spindles you are going to have to swap out for 1 1/4" or 1 3/8" to be able to convert to discs using my kit. I've only just learned this thanks to a couple of guys educating me, so I hope they can find what they need. I do have a couple of pair of spindles lined up if anyone needs them. I will sell them for my cost, no markup to get you out of a bind on the conversion you are doing, email me directly at olddaddy@rustyhope.com.

Brake hoses. One important note is that some hoses come with a steel bracket that must be removed to install the kit on your trucks. The original application used the bracket, you will not. I've added the adapter blocks to my parts info since a few of you have run into the size problem from hose to line. Sixty years on it's hard to know what's on all those old trucks, but people keep telling me and I keep learning.

Thanks!!!

I'm not sure if you have a C&C or what cuts your plates out, but I would honestly recommend shaving a 1/4" on the edges where the plate rounds for the caliper to mount, right near the holes. I had to do a lot of grinding to make them fit, but there is TONS of material so no issues with strength. Other then that..LOL...make a new line in your instructions for PH trucks, mount the plate like the cars....but once you've done it it only takes about another 25 mins to switch the sides.

The kit works great and I'm super happy with it, although I would like to try a different rotor and caliper set up if I could ever find one that would work, a nice small 2 piston caliper and a rotor without ABS, but this new stuff will last me along time at the rate I'll be driving my truck.

Thanks

[Dan Babb]

Bringing this thread back to life.

Anyone have a problem with the bolts that go through the steering arm stripping? I ruined both of the shorter bolts trying to get the passenger side done.

I think I might have tapped the hole in the spindle at a very slight angle. I've opened up the hole in the bracket just a little, but the threads on the bolt look like they wear away a bit (the bolt looks a tad thinner when I pulled it out).

When I try to tighten the bolt, it winds up just spinning. I can't get it tight enough to be happy without it breaking free.

I've run the tap through the hole again to make sure there isn't crap built up in the new threads in the spindle.

Going to try to get some new bolts tomorrow and make sure they are grade 8. Can't think of anything else to try.

Any ideas?

[Olddaddy]

Dan, it sure sounds like you've stripped the threads in the spindle. If you have you will have to helicoil them. Did you drill them out on the car? If you can't solve the problem, send them to me. I can drill them out and helicoil them. You will need new hardware if the threads are ruined on the bolts. I can send you some as the 5/8-18 is not a common size at HD or Lowes, Ace etc.

[Dan Babb]

I did drill them out on the truck...didn't know how to get the spindle off. Probably a dumb-*** move.

I don't think the threads in the spindle are bad though...they look OK and the tap goes through it cleanly. I'll check again tomorrow before I do anything else.

If I got the hole a bit off center, would a helicoil solve that? I guess I'd just figure out how to pull the spindle off and do it the right way on my drill press.