D-24 clock refresh

[_shel_ny]

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Edited September 22, 2011 by shel_bizzy_48

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have done three of these clock..the hands are just white paint...the hands do need to come off to properly clean the clock and the dial/face removed so the clock movement can be immersed and later properly lubed. I had two sets that came off rather easily and one set that really was a pain..not sure if I was going to get them off without damage but finally came off..it is the minute hand that is the bugger bear. The adjuster sleeve is held on with the slotted button screw also for removal of the dial..I also make a dial out of a cheapo clock at Family Dollar...worth the price for the cheepo to get a nice clear lens..easily marked and cut..I put masking tape over it to protect the finish whele cutting to size..the tape also protects against shatter when drilling the hole..go very very slow here...

[Guest jtw3749c]

The way the clock worked in my 49, was winding about the same amount of time (70 sec) and the only time it used any electric was to energize the contact to reset the clock winding mechanism. It acted like a kick starter on a motorcycle. It energized and kicked to winder back to start, and would do it all over again.

JT

[Plymouthy Adams]

The clock you need will have just the slightest amount of dome..get it too high and the knob for setting will not function..don't ask as I never admit to anything...

When removing the minute hand, pull up the setting gear and engage..using a nice flat piece of rubber gasket and your fingers wrap and hold the engage gears..firmly grasp the minute hand and do a twist and lift motion..hand should come off..I will tell you..they can and often times will be a bit tough...

After that disassemble the coil from the clock..do not immerse that in solution as you do not want to break down the coating on the wire of the coil...it is a very simple yet solid little clock..The electro-magnet fires when the contact come together..this causes the counter lever to be pulled to the pole of the magnet..this stretches the spring..this stretched spring is what keeps tension on the movement like a mainspring on a wind up watch. There is a good amount of tension left on the spring when it next fires so it never really misses a beat nor winds down till the battery cannot fire the magnet or clock stops due to lack of oil, dirt in the gears or a spike from a high heel goes through the crystal.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Have seen that on more than one occasion..it "burns" me down pardon the pun..same reason to renew the cyrstal on the one at the house..I was lucky an have an original lens in very servicable condition and more than not will go back in the car..

did you get the hands off?

[Ed Griffin]

Saw the same "burn" marks on one of my clocks lens. Thought someone was bored as well. You'll find that the speedometer lens will work if you have an extra or get one off ebay etc.. . Just have to drill the hole as Tim mentions. I did this awhile back because I wanted a glass lens instead of plastic. The only fall back I can see to using glass is to keep someone from openiing the glove compartment and it busting on their knee. Dont think you have to worry abt this too much. The Speedo lens is a perfect match.

[55 Fargo]

I have 2 clocks for my 47 Chrys, where do I start if I want to get either one running again. I have never worked on one of these clocks before, will be a nice cold winter night project................Thanx Fred

[Ed Griffin]

Shel, if you have an extra lens from a speedometer, it's going to fit the clock. Both are the same diameter and have the same curve to them. As far as glass bits go you can pick one up at Wally World that will be the correct size very cheap. The main thing is to do like Tim said and go slow. I like the tape idea but didnt do that when I drilled the hole in mine. I did use a little oil as I drilled to keep the heat and small amount of dust down. Just make sure you go slow and watch for the glass particles getting on you. My main concern was to keep from drifting when getting the bit started and cracking the lens which is where the oil comes in. Keeps the bit from hanging up on the glass as you go.

David Maxwell's method of using the colored sharpie's to add or increase the color on the speedometer has been the best idea I've seen so far. Havent applied it to any of mine yet but plan to when ever I get into the dash.