disc brakes

[fireman_033]

Anyone know any thing bout using the backing plates from a straight axle four wheel drive chevy for disc conversion. I found a site where someone done this on a 48 and it got me to thinkin with the way it was done there had to be a rotor that would be the same diameter as the truck rotor you could use so i went to the local oreillys and got out the brembo book found the 88 95 vette rotor should fit the build but I havent found any backing plates to play with yet. http://home.wi.rr.com/dndrodshop/disc.htm this is the site I found this on.

[Norm's Coupe]

Thats Ed Gross' site. I believe he used the backing plates off a Blazer. You have to scroll down the whole page, but everything he used and how he used it is all there. He also tells you which rotors and hubs he used on that page.

[fireman_033]

yeah I read it all he used 11" rotors and cut the plate and welded it back together I was thinking of using the 12" rotors so nothing had to but cut just make the hubs adapt the vette has the same center hub size as what he used.

[Norm's Coupe]

What you are saying may be ok. However, 12" rotors would be too big to fit inside the wheel. The Plymouth only came with either 10" or 11" drums. So........you have to stay within those diameters for it. FYI, the 78 Plymouth Volare/Dodge Aspen rotors have the same size hub.

That said, other hubs/rotors will fit if you find and use the correct wheel bearings to go along with them. That's one of the problems with trying to make up a system from scratch from home. You have to do a lot of trial and errors to get it right.

In addition, I know Ed personally, he lives near me. He made that system up in the mid to late 90's before disc brake kits were available for our cars. So.......he was forced to come up with a system to get disc brakes. It works good, but with all the chasing down of parts, machine work involved etc., it's probably just as cheap, or close to it to buy one of the kits that are available.

There are several places you can get a disc brake kit, and they all sell the complete kit, or just the brackets. If you buy the brackets from them they will tell you where and what kind of hubs, bearings, calipers etc. to buy from a local store. So.........it's much easier too.

Kits are available from:

ECI Hotrod Brakes

Olddaddy (on this forum, check profiles)

Plydo

AAJ Brakes

I used the ECI kit, Don Coatney used the Plydo kit, John Mulders for one used Olddaddy's and someone on the forum said they used AAJ's. They all work and aren't that much different to install. The ECI system is complete bolt on without any modifications to anything except you cannot use original 15" wheels with it. You'd have to change over to a more modern wheel or buy new ones from Wheel Vintique or some similar place.

[Paul Beard]

I have AAJ brakes on my 53 PH. Roger supplies all the parts or just the backing plate to mount caliphers . I bought the whole kit from him and am very pleased.

Have gm caliphers d52 disc pads with 16" wheels a 12" rotor from newer front axle of four wheel drive 1/2 ton dodge truck use 11" rotor with 15" wheels. AAJ Brakes is listed under Brake section of Deptca listing.

[Norm's Coupe]

Paul,

That may work on the trucks with the 16" wheels. Guess I should have said my coupes wheels are 15". The rotor/hub fit just fine with the stock wheels and 11" rotors. However when I put the calipers on the wheel would not move at all. Ground the nubs off the caliper and the original wheel did turn but it still rubbed. The only way to solve the problem then was to go with more modern wheels. That's why I told him a 12" rotor would be too big. The red on the caliper is from the wheel.

[james curl]

You might give Scarebird.com a checkout. They have a kit that requires very little work and still uses the original wheels. I used Old Daddy/Rusty Hope's kit and it works fine with stock wheels. I think that PlyDO, Fatman and Rusty Hope's kits all install the caliper bracket on the back side of the spindle futher away from the wheel center and ECI uses a special short hub and installs the bracket on the front side closer to the center of the wheel. I think that Scarebird mounts their caliper bracket to the front side but it has an off set in it that moves the caliper futher from the wheel center. Someone here on the forum posted pictures of his Scarebird installation.

[wilmot andy]

Welcome to the site from a fellow fireman. Get the kit and do it right the first time and learn from others trial and error. But I know all firefighters are cheap, and get not nearly enough pay for what their worth! I am going with a Dakota subframe recommended by Tim Adams. Just cut the frame two days ago. Inside my frame I pulled about 20 lbs of dirt and mouse bedding. I got the frame with the brakes, susp, wheels for $32 from the local Pick-n-Pull junkyard.

[Norm's Coupe]

You might give Scarebird.com a checkout. They have a kit that requires very little work and still uses the original wheels. I used Old Daddy/Rusty Hope's kit and it works fine with stock wheels. I think that PlyDO, Fatman and Rusty Hope's kits all install the caliper bracket on the back side of the spindle futher away from the wheel center and ECI uses a special short hub and installs the bracket on the front side closer to the center of the wheel. I think that Scarebird mounts their caliper bracket to the front side but it has an off set in it that moves the caliper futher from the wheel center. Someone here on the forum posted pictures of his Scarebird installation.

James is correct the ECI kit comes with it's own hub, and the brackets do go on the outside moving the wheels out about a total of 1/2". That hub is so sharp looking it's a shame you have to cover it with a rotor and wheel.

[1949P17BC]

I bought mine from Old Daddy, clean easy to install and he gives you all of the parts #s to order. I choose his because you can use the original wheels and off the shelf parts. Can't get any easier

[Plymouthy Adams]

wilmot andy said:

I am going with a Dakota subframe recommended by Tim Adams..../...I got the frame with the brakes, susp, wheels for $32 from the local Pick-n-Pull junkyard.

What a steal..cheap at twice the price...

Andy..here is why I said to get both the sway bar and the 2.5 edition without swaybar (with eliminator plate}..the doghouse mount you will fabricate will sit on the eliminator and the eliminator will nut down on the through mount bolts of the sway bar...I have yet to cut the lower mount holes and they will have adjustment left to right while the rad support will slide front to rear...(want to get a couple more pieces of grille opening metal on first.

Also shown is the wheel clearance of the tires when fitted with stock Dakota wheels on the donated front suspension and rear Dakota axle...the profile would be a bit better if I had the car off the shop dollies. Can't wait to see the Canyons on her...

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 20, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams

[wilmot andy]

I got two projects going on at once, my IH truck and the dodge. I don't like the sanding and rust removal on sheetmetal, and thats all thats left on the truck. I get more fun out of wrenching on the frame and engine. I guess this could be a big project for someone, but I have the room and time. Will get it welded after Easter, then can work on the body and engine mounts.