gunk in brake lines

[stevenelle]

B2b, still has he original brake lines I think. No leaks and good hard brakes. However, I continue to have ongoing problem with pressure building up in the lines and not releasing properly back into the master cylinder. The return port is so small that I believe it is getting plugged with rusty sediment and other crud from 57 years. Has this happened to anyone else. Is it logical that our vehicles will need competely new brake lines (and new fluid) after this long? I presume there is a good reason why that return port is so tiny, but it sure tends to get clogged on my truck. Thank you for sharing any experiences or knowledge about this.

[oldmopar]

If it has the original lines I would replace the lines and brake hoses also replace or rebuild the wheel and master cylinders . If you do not think you need to do the cylinders at least flush out the system. Do not forget with a single cylinder master if one part fails you have No Brakes

Ed

[MBF]

I would bet that you have a collapsed line or two. I think there is a set on ebay right now. I just replaced the front wheel cyls, and lines on my 36 Plymouth, and then flushed the system. What a difference. Mike

[grey beard]

DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid are both very hygroscopic in nature - it attracts moisture like a magnet. This moisture buildup will in time rust steel brake lines from the INSIDE. It is for this reason that many on this forum and elsewhere will advise you to replace all old lines - because they deteriorate with time, and all Pilothouse trucks are now over fifty years old.

This is not such a terrible job. I removed all my old steel lines and used these for patterns to make new. One 25-ft. rool of tubing will do an entire 108-inch wheelbase truck with some to spare. Buy a good double flare tubing kit and learn how to make them and just begin with the simpler lines.

Always replace all three of the flex lines - they are all idenical part numbers. DO save all your old fittings. You will need them. Nastiest part of the whole job is the fitting on the drivers' side frame rail where four lines meet. Be careful here that you don't cross thread any fittings. Things are a little tight here.

One piece of line - from the master cylinder to this 4-way fitting - is one size larger diameter than all the rest. The remainder of the steel lines are all the same size.

If you go ahead with this job, and if you replace all the wheel cylinders and master cylinder, you are in a perfect position to move up to DOT 5 - silicone based brake fluid, which is NOT hygroscopic, but rather is a wonderful rubber lubricant. This system and fluid arrangement will still be in good shape after your wife has your funeral. This is what I have done to my truck and recommend the recipe for anyone contemplating keeping their ride cvery long. Do it once and do it right.

AND, while you're at the job, go to Pegasus.com and spend $35 more dollars for a new remote master cylinder reservoit - mounts up on your firewall, next to your voltage regulator. Now you can SEE your brake fluid level every time you open the hood, and never again run the risk of getting dirt into the system like many do when you service the master cylinder in its old nasty stock location, back there behind your steering box. This is the very culprit that has killed so many Dodge truck brake systems - the inaccessability of the master cylinder. JMHO

[MBF]

You've got to be very careful that you evacuate all of the DOT3 before going to a DOT5 or all the internal rubber will turn to mush. We had this problem with a fleet of forklifts years ago-finally a directive came down from the factory saying that the two fluids aren't compatible and suggested replacing the wheel cyls before migrating over to the DOT5. Once you have this done, you probably won't ever have to do it again-just make sure that you label the master cylinder for the guy your wife sells the car to after you head off to the dirt nap. Mike

[Rich Gengo]

I would stay away from the silicone brake fld also. I had a problem with a few of my cars because of dot 3 left in the system and it doesn't take much. I was told by a Bendix rep like grey beard said, dot 3 absorbs moisture. Thats why in time the fluid turns black as it gets old. Silicone does not absorb moisture and as the Bendix rep explained it to me the system is still going to collect moisture but now it is going to just lay in the bottom of the cylinders instead of in the fluid like it was designed to do. The best bet is to have a clean system with fresh fluid and bleed the system with new fluid every few years if they just sit around.

[coW52Dodge]

..AND, while you're at the job, go to Pegasus.com and spend $35 more dollars for a new remote master cylinder reservoit - mounts up on your firewall, next to your voltage regulator. Now you can SEE your brake fluid level every time you open the hood, and never again run the risk of getting dirt into the system like many do when you service the master cylinder in its old nasty stock location, back there behind your steering box. This is the very culprit that has killed so many Dodge truck brake systems - the inaccessability of the master cylinder. JMHO

Sorry for gravedigging this thread but I decided to re-plumb all my hard lines that^ sounds like a very good thing to do - but I have some questions:

How would that external tank attach to the existing stock master cylinder?

Do they, by chance, have a tank with a level switch that I could wire to an idiot light, so one can see when the fluid drops below a certain level? It may be a little paranoid to worry about leaks if the job is done right, but it would make me feel better.

Edited June 2, 2009 by coW52Dodge

[dmulhall]

before I rebuilt my brake system, my wheel cylinders were seized...so everytime I pushed on the brakes...they would apply but would not release totally...

[grey beard]

Mr. Cow52,

Remote cylinder reservoirs mount on the firewall and are typically translucent, just like those on newer vehicles. This feature allows you to tell at a glance the fluid level of your master cylinder, without diving down there behind the steering box to check it. I drilled a hole in the cap on my master cylinder and tapped it for 3/8-inch pipe thread, then screwed a hose nipple onto the opening. The remote reservoir has a similar hose fitting, and the two are connected via 24 inches of clear plastic tubing. Couldn't be simpler.

No one has mentioned it on this thread, but common sense and safety precautions sorta' dictate that no matter which type brake fluid you use, DOT 3, 4, or silocone DOT 5, the stuff should be flushed every five years or so, depending on how much you drive the thing. JMHO:)

Same goes for your daily driver and the little woman's wheels, as well.

[coW52Dodge]

Mr. Cow52,

Remote cylinder reservoirs mount on the firewall and are typically translucent, just like those on newer vehicles. This feature allows you to tell at a glance the fluid level of your master cylinder, without diving down there behind the steering box to check it. I drilled a hole in the cap on my master cylinder and tapped it for 3/8-inch pipe thread, then screwed a hose nipple onto the opening. The remote reservoir has a similar hose fitting, and the two are connected via 24 inches of clear plastic tubing. Couldn't be simpler.

No one has mentioned it on this thread, but common sense and safety precautions sorta' dictate that no matter which type brake fluid you use, DOT 3, 4, or silocone DOT 5, the stuff should be flushed every five years or so, depending on how much you drive the thing. JMHO:)

Same goes for your daily driver and the little woman's wheels, as well.

Thank you for the explanation, mr Beard.

That makes a lot of sense so will do the same.

[John-T-53]

Mr. Beard has a good point about replacing the lines...I was milking my old brake system for all that it was worth about two years ago, until it finally gave out on the road. The culprit - brake line failure! One line actually rusted from the outside, though. It was the line along the frame rail next to the gas tank. There was a lot of muck and rotting debris in the space where this line passed through, keeping it perpetually moist (and rusty).

Fortunately, the truck survived a near accident and the entire brake system was overhauled shortly thereafter.

[old woolie]

They all rust from the outside here, I replaced every line on a 99 F150 last week.

[coW52Dodge]

They all rust from the outside here, I replaced every line on a 99 F150 last week.

I finished replacing them last night. Especially the one going to the rear was in rough shape. They were probably original so it was time. That junction under the cab looks easy to do but takes a bit of patience. I feel a lot safer about driving it now, with the hard lines renewed.