Jump to content

Rebuilding my Autolite Distributor


Go to solution Solved by desoto1939,

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am rebuilding an extra Autolite distributor for my 1939 Desoto.  I have the factory miller tool that is used to push out the two bushings and also install the two bushings.

 

When i pushed out the two original factory Autolite driveshaft bushings I discovered that these original bushing had factory holes on the side that would matchup with the top grease cap and permitted grease to be forced onto the shaft.  at the base of the main body is another hole that you allow oil to enter at the base of the body to also oil the shaft.

 

I have 5 replacement bushings and they are the correct replacement numbers but neither of the bushings have the appropriate holes in them.  Should I be concerned that these holes are not in the replacement bushing or should I have them tapped and drilled out to the appropriate sizes. 

 

I figure that the original bushing lasted 85 years I guess the replacement bushing will still work and be good after I dies.  What is everyone thoughts on this issue.

 

Attached are picture of the old and new bushing and the factory Miller Tool that the dealership mechanics used to rebuild at distributor. Note that there ae two different sized holes. In the second picture the bushing on the left is used on the top and the one on the right is used in the base of the main body.

 

The factory miller tool in the 5th picture has a collar that is used to drive the bushing into the top of the base and the collar is used to make sure the bushing just sits below the hole in the base to insure that the shaft does not bind and there is a washer that sits on top of the bushing.

 

On the bottom there is a collar that has a pin that goes through the shaft and into the collor. This also has to be driven out to remove the shaft. I use a 1/8 in steel rod to drive out the pin. The pin might be 9/64 in diameter and then needs to be staked so that it does not work its self out of the assembly.  Was thinking of using a split slotted pich pin to make it a tight fit.

 

Any recommendation if this will work?

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

 

 

 

    

d6.jpg

d7.jpg

d8.jpg

d12.jpg

d2.jpg

d1.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Drill them lubrication holes to match the old bushings and align them as required...those replacement bushings may have applications that do not require those specific lubrication holes, so it's up to the rebuilder to customize.

  • Like 4
  • Solution
Posted

Update on the Rebuild process:

 

Yesterday a good friend of mine and also a mechanic we disassembled my Autolite IGS 4102-c distributor. It is a very easy process, the only real issue that we had was grinding down the lower pin that hold the collar onto the shaft and then having to press it out of the unit.

 

We drove out the drive shaft with the use of a rawhide mallet so as to not damage the end of the shaft.  Used the factory miller tool to drive out the upper and lower bushings.

Cleaned the shaft and left the sprigs and weights still attached to the shaft.

 

Yes the factory bushing did have the lubrication holes drilled in the bushing. We remove the outer grease cup and cleaned that and the opening of any left over grease.

 

We decided that we would install both the upper and lower bushing with the tool. Then drilled out the holes and use the opening in the body of the grease cup to locate the holes. Used a 7/32 for the top hole and a 1/8 for the lower oil hole.

 

Cleaned the drive shaft looing for any wear marks and found none.  Insert the drive shaft town to check for any binding. we did find that there was some tightness when trying to go through the lower bushing. Also note we did rebuild two distributor and had the same issue with tightness on both.

 

We then had to ream the bushing with a 1/2 reamer coated with ATF fluid.  Make one pass and this removed the tightness and there was no slop felt or even seen. Installed the lower cup and used a 1/8 by 3/4 in long pin  to the secure the cup to the drive shaft.

 

Installed the breaker plate assembly and then used my Snap Gap tool to set the points to .020.  Checked each lobe and now each high point on the cam opened the oints to the proper opening of .020.

 

Still have to install the distributor but it is cold in my garage. Hope to finish this weekend.

 

It took us approx 1-2 hours to complete both distributors.  Another great learning process for me.

 

I am writing up an document on what we did and will try to attach it to this update.  It is still a work in progress.  If any one has questions feel free to contact me.

 

Rich hartung

desoto1939@aol.com 

 

Rebuild Autolite Distributor.docx

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use