Back again after a long absence

[Joe Flanagan]

Well, I'm back again. I have a tendency to do this, disappear for a bunch of months. But anyway, I'm working on my 49 Plymouth Special Deluxe again and I couldn't be happier. Between work, kids, house stuff and general life stuff, I had to leave the old hulk alone. When I left off I was welding in new floor pans. That's done now and I'm replacing a rusted out section of the trunk. The big decision is that I'm going to spring for a George Asche overdrive because I've tried every which way to find one I could rebuild myself and have had no luck. I've been reading the forum and I'm aware of some recent problems with his stuff but it seems like he has a good record and I think it's the only source anyway.

Any advice on replacing body mounts? That's coming up. I'll post pictures as soon as I can. Good to be back.

[Plymouthy Adams]

hey Joe...the doughmuts needed to place on the frame to isolate the chassis is pretty much available and will vary in cost. I purhcased mine long back from Mitchell before he went all internet sales..not sure of his price now but at the time was the better deal..I think you can contact him by PM through e-bay..

[PatS....]

Welcome back, Joe. I missed your updates and the pics of your great work.

Pat

[Reg Evans]

Yes....welcome back Joe. I recently purchased a 49 Plym.Suburban with swiss cheese floors. I found some replacement floor boards on eBay from Classicparts4u and wondered if you have any hot tips for replacing the floor? The body mounts seem OK.

[blueskies]

...I'm working on my 49 Plymouth Special Deluxe again and I couldn't be happier. ...

Glad to hear you're back at it Joe, post some pics when you get a chance...

Pete

[Joe Flanagan]

Reg,

I worked with a MIG welder. The most helpful thing to me was someone's advice to screw the new panels in on top of the existing floor before cutting anything out. I used tappet screws to do this. Then I traced around the edge of the new panels, then backed the screws out, took out the new material and cut along the lines. This of course is assuming you have enough good metal to work with around the edges. It worked pretty well.

I also wound up welding both sides of the seam, top and bottom. This is because the back side of the seam always looked pretty rough and even though I was planning to use a sealer, I didn't want any water getting in and finding a place to sit and start rust. I went through an awful lot of grinding discs.

[Reg Evans]

Thanks Joe. That sounds like a good idea. I'll do that too.

[james curl]

I found this add in Hemmings about 5 months ago. I do not have his phone number, just his address. His name is Dale Oliver, P.O. Box 70033 Eugene Or. 97401. The prices in hemmings was much lower than the price I was quoted on the phone, seams the one in Hemmings is for a 59 and later. The 46-54s are $1600.00 complete with free shipping to lower 48. Depending where you live th $1600.00 might not be so high for every thing, the whole system delivered to your door. I found his add in Hemmings under Plymouth parts 42-56, 6 cyl only. Land phone 541-726-1165 or cell phone 541-543-1165.