Turn Signal switch inner workings

[Tired iron]

Hey all,

My turn signal switch on my Dodge Meadowbrook was non-functional  and I wanted to fix it because replacements were very scarce and very expensive and I didn't want to go with a generic one mounted on  the column.  Plus, I wanted to understand exactly what's' going on in there cause the shop manual only shows the 6 wires going into the switch, but not what's happening inside the switch.

 

What is usually called a six-wire switch is seemingly pretty straight-forward.  A bank of three wires that has a blinker wire and front R and L turn signal lights, and then a second bank of three wires that contains the brake switch wire and R and L rear brake lights.

 

The basic concept is clear: one wire bringing in a supply from the blinker that can flash on and off, and another supply from the brake switch...but I needed  a schematic to see how everything is routed so I could diagnose what's wrong.  Not having that schematic, I took the switch out, took it all apart, figured it out, penciled it out, and fixed it.  In case somebody will find this useful (now or for future searches) in diagnosing and/or fixing their own turn signal switch, I thought I'd write it out here while it's still fresh in my memory.

 

This first picture is a connection table that shows how the 6 wires are connected in various states of turn or not turn.  Let's see if I can explain it...

 

Let's take the easiest one first: no turning and just having the ability to light up the brake lights.  You see on the table the column labeled center.  That refers to the turn switch being in the center (no turn) position.  Here we have the supply from the brake switch coming in and going out to both the R and L rear brake lights.  Easy enough.  Notice the flasher supply and the R and L front turn lights are not connected.

 

Okay, Right turn.  Looking at the table, you can see the supply coming from the flasher is routed to the front R turn signal.  Makes sense.  And it also connects to the right rear brake light (by the dotted line).  Here's the tricky part: also notice that the brake switch supply is connected to the LEFT rear, so that, if you put your foot on the brake, the L rear brake light would light up. 

 

And a left turn is, of course, the reverse of all of that.  All in all, a pretty elegant switch.

 

The other pictures show the innards so you can see what you're getting into.  It is a bit tricky to keep all the little brass sliders and springs in order, but it is do-able.  Luckily, vintage switches are usually repairable and kinda satisfying to work on.  No plastic, no rivets.  Carefully bend back metal tangs, and clean parts, and sandpaper brass contacts and you're good to go.

 

Well, there it is.  Most of you folks are already well-versed in this switch, but for the occasional newbie like me who can't get his brain around how that switch works, I hope this will help.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 19, 2024 by Tired iron
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[Bob Riding]

Beautiful! I was just investigating how my '52 Suburban switch worked, and what I would need to do to repair/replace. I can't believe how $$$ an NOS switch sellers wants for their switch parts. I've paid less for entire cars!

 

I'm going to be integrating the original stock switch into a new American Autowire 12 volt + ground wiring harness. Not sure how they will mash together, but I can't imagine that it will be too difficult.

 

Thanks for taking the time to post.

[Tired iron]

You are welcome, Bob.  Good luck on your project.

[Ivan_B]

Thank you for the write-up. Your "Bulbs" bucket is mislabeled, though ?