Coils and Installing New Coil Spring Silencers- any tips?

['41 Fat Bottom Girl]

Silencers-I am installing new top and bottom coil spring silencers while I am rebuilding the control arms.

Other than getting the orientation right (ground flat is top of the coil, I will replace coils in same rotational position in the control arms as when removed) are there any other considerations when putting it back together?

 

Coils- Before this, the driver's side always sagged about 1/2 inch below shotgun side at the front fenders.  I could lift the fender slightly and the car would level out.

The spacer was installed on the top of the driver's side coil spring properly, so that part is there. Taking the coils out, they both are the same free length. I don't think the spring rate would change much, but maybe it could?

So, I am thinking of putting the previous driver side spring on the shotgun side, and vice-versa, still keeping the driver's side extra spacer in place as is usual. Even if the car then sat slightly higher at rest on the driver's side, it would even out with a driver in it (?).

The previous silencers were cracked and broken, but still there for the most part. That could make a difference I suppose if one side was gone.

I guess it isn't that tough to add another shim later, if necessary, when all settles out.

Just wondered if it might be worth a try swapping the coils. 

Waddya Think?

Regards to All,

Bruce

 

[D35 Torpedo]

Can't hurt to giving it a try. What condition are the rear springs in? Bad rears can affect the front. Both my cars only have silencers on the top.

[Plymouthy Adams]

for sure the rear will affect the front so do inspect this area well looking for broken springs etc.  DO pay close attention to the shackles and their related bushings for being worn/egged out over time.  The later Plymouth Valiant bushes are easily had and fit when trimmed a bit in length as the later springs are a bit wider in the eyes.  I have replaced the front spring eye bushing as a routine rebuild but never have I HAD to replace them...seems these fair well over the course of time and a dog often best left sleeping.

[D35 Torpedo]

5 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

for sure the rear will affect the front so do inspect this area well looking for broken springs etc.  DO pay close attention to the shackles and their related bushings for being worn/egged out over time.  The later Plymouth Valiant bushes are easily had and fit when trimmed a bit in length as the later springs are a bit wider in the eyes.  I have replaced the front spring eye bushing as a routine rebuild but never have I HAD to replace them...seems these fair well over the course of time and a dog often best left sleeping.

Funny, I was looking at a Valiant the other day. I was thinking they looked like they would work. Looks like I'm off to Napa. I found urethane bushings for the front of the spring. You just need to reuse the sleeve from the old bushing.

[Plymouthy Adams]

unless our front spring eye bush is falling apart....I do not suggest just randomly changing them.  In the manner they are made stock, am not sure any poly with sleeve will be an improvement here.  

[D35 Torpedo]

13 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

unless our front spring eye bush is falling apart....I do not suggest just randomly changing them.  In the manner they are made stock, am not sure any poly with sleeve will be an improvement here.  

 

They are just rubber bonded bushings like any modern car. They wear out. Urethane is better. Anyways, personal preferences aside. I called Napa and the valiant bushings have a larger O.D.

['41 Fat Bottom Girl]

Thanx.

Luckily, the rear leaf springs are in great condition, I had them load-checked for equal deflection when I rebuilt the rear end in 2007. Even the outer metal leaf covers were good. New bushings and shackles at the time, so the rears are ok. Sat for 14 years before I got back to it, and only 3,000 miles since on that rear rebuild.

Will swap the coils and see the results.

[Plymouthy Adams]

funny, the ones I got were Moog brand and a direct slip in.....no, I did not record the Moog number....could be a early verse late Valiant application.   Sorry to have informed you wrongly...my apologies and my bad for not writing this number down.   I only had to cut for length to meet in the center of the spring eye.   As for the front eyes of the leaf springs....these are not just slip in bushing...these are called a silent block...sleeve and rubber within another metal sleeve that is pressed into the spring eye...now if yours has been changed to push in bushing in the past....you may need to continue with such replacements.  Removing the original spring eye is not a simple knock out might I add.  As for poly, yeah tougher stuff.....I just rebuilt a British car front and rear suspension with all poly bushings,  I know the trade off for better handling will be the resultant stiffer ride and contributing road noise transfer.

Edited April 24, 2023 by Plymouthy Adams

[D35 Torpedo]

13 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

funny, the ones I got were Moog brand and a direct slip in.....no, I did not record the Moog number....could be a early verse late Valiant application.   Sorry to have informed you wrongly...my apologies and my bad for not writing this number down.   I only had to cut for length to meet in the center of the spring eye.   As for the front eyes of the leaf springs....these are not just slip in bushing...these are called a silent block...sleeve and rubber within another metal sleeve that is pressed into the spring eye...now if yours has been changed to push in bushing in the past....you may need to continue with such replacements.  Removing the original spring eye is not a simple knock out might I add.

Let me add, the springs I'm rebuilding for my 50 are the ones out of the 52. They don't have any cladding. I removed the press in bushing completely. First, one uses a drill bit to drill out all the rubber until the sleeve comes out. Then a punch and hammer to collapse and drift out the outer sleeve. It helps to use a flat head screw driver as a wedge to open up the spring eye a bit. An air chissel makes short work of the sleeve. Then I used Napa 274-7053 bushings and old sleeve. Cut them down in length. Grease them with silicone brake grease/dielectric grease, same stuff. I found a guy in my neighbourhood who is sitting on a ton of NOS stuff. He might have shackles loaded or just bushings.

Edited April 24, 2023 by D35 Torpedo

[Plymouthy Adams]

Thanks for your update, many would not guess the personal involvement removing the silent blocks will be.....if you can find loaded shackles for a good price grab then if not for now...for down the road...these are getting ridiculously expensive given you find them at all.  You doing good....glad to hear you finding stuff for retrofit that will at the same time give a bit of added performance for if you get the wild hair to goose it a bit.....

[D35 Torpedo]

2 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Thanks for your update, many would not guess the personal involvement removing the silent blocks will be.....if you can find loaded shackles for a good price grab then if not for now...for down the road...these are getting ridiculously expensive given you find them at all.  You doing good....glad to hear you finding stuff for retrofit that will at the same time give a bit of added performance for if you get the wild hair to goose it a bit.....

Thanks brother! Necessity is the mother of invention.