Rodney Bullock Posted November 20, 2006 Report Posted November 20, 2006 I was down at my garge this saturday cutting grass and racking leafs and when I was done I started my studebaker to let it run for a while. I noticed that when I rev the engine the heat riser moves forward, I then started the plymouth and rev the engine in it and the heat riser did not move, now I had my manifold off and a new heat riser kit installed eary spring, come to find out the spring was in backwards, I removed the counter weight and spring reversed it and installed evething back on and low and behold I rev the motor and the counter weight moved, I then took it out on the road and found that the car had much more power great take off and it warmed up quickly. I guess it took the studebaker to teach me what to do with the plymouth, does everyone else's heat riser move when you rev the motor? Quote
Niel Hoback Posted November 20, 2006 Report Posted November 20, 2006 Rodney, my heat riser moves quite easily by blipping the throttle. After a few times it gets to be kinda fun to watch. To much free time here. Quote
greg g Posted November 20, 2006 Report Posted November 20, 2006 It should, as the flap is verticle when the riser is directing exhaust into the intake manifold heater chamber. The increased exhaust flow and pressure from driving speed rpms will tend to push it to its horizontal position against the spring. When my spring was broken, the revs would push it all the way open, and then the counter weight would clunk it back against the stop when you let off the gas. Vrooom clunk, vroooooooooom clunk, vroom,vroooom clunk. Just for kicks it would be neat for someone with one of those point and read thermometer things to shoot it at a non heated, a exhaust heated and a water heated intake to see what the difference might be. Quote
Guest rockabillybassman Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 My heat riser is non-existant, I blocked the inlet manifold off with a piece of steel plate, but I live in a temperate climate. I guess they're not needed here. My engine is starting first turn of the key, even with the auto choke removed it runs fine. Quote
randroid Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 Try this again... I've read many posts about heat risers over the last few years, and have learned much about them excet where to get a replacement. Any suggestions? -Randy Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted November 21, 2006 Author Report Posted November 21, 2006 There is a vender called the antique cellar, they have a kit not expensive. In our area unlike Rockabilly we need a heat Riser,choke exhast system, tires etc. To make our cars run(JOKE). ON this forum you have some Plymouth Hot Rodders that have duel carbs and such and they eliminate the factory ssystems that make the cars operation easier. There is nothing wrong with that however some folks needed it. I am glad we can get some dialoge on it as when I installed mine alot of people did not know what it was supposed to do, which way it was supposed to flap open and such. Quote
ps-amazon Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 when my heatriser broke down, I removed it and fixed the flap; starting without choke is no problem, it takes only a minute more to get the engine warm enough to rev up easily; heatrisers are not for sale here in Holland and the temperatures are mild, so it's ok for me Quote
Jim Yergin Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 Rodney, Between your joke about your car running and your comment on another thread about modernizing your Studebaker so that you have a reliable driver I get the impression that you are having some frustrating times with your cars. Hope it is nothing serious. Jim Yergin Quote
bob westphal Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 When I split my manifold, the heat riser was frozen so I forced it into a verticle position and bolted the dual carb manifold to the split manifold. I didn't put a block in the split manifold. The engine starts very easily without the choke with a couple jabs on the pedal and doesn't have any cold characteristics. Bob Quote
Normspeed Posted November 21, 2006 Report Posted November 21, 2006 My setup has no heat riser and I run my carbs with the choke assemblies removed. The choke pivot rod holes are permanently plugged. No problems with driveability as long as I warm it up for a minute or two. But I live in a mild climate too. Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted November 22, 2006 Author Report Posted November 22, 2006 JIm, sometimes the 6volt systems are very delicate. I like to go into the garage and start a car and drive it. The 6volt cars need alot of attention. I love those cars however recently, I have been going into the garage and finding my battery totally dead(bad cell) however the plymouth is ok now. I let it sit for two and went in and started it the battery was up and ok, then the heater on the stude was left on and it's on a line that is hot all the time, I forgot to turn it off, recharged the battery and it's fine. that's when I rev the engine and saw the Heat Riser and understood it's function. It gets cold here and the factory systems that were put in place if they are working makes life so much easier. The Hawk (1961) I will be building is just my way of getting back with my other friends (streetrodders) they think I have abandoned them and I have not, I just leaned to the originals for a time. Eveything is alright, I am getting a little bored that's all;) Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.