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Motor mount question/butchs cool stuff


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Posted

Hey guys,

   I am looking for anyone who has used the butch's cool stuff motor mount kit for swapping SB Chrys V8 into 42-53 Ply (48 in my case). I found out yesterday that, according to the installation instructions included with the kit, the 6" dimension on the drivers side does not clear the original steering box mounting to the frame by 1 1/4". My first thought is to move the motor mounts back the 1 1/4" to clear the box but I'm a bit concerned the often limited firewall clearance will pose another problem. 

So before going any farther I thought I'd seek out the wise and experienced and see if anyone has tried this swap.

 And to alleviate any anxiety and wasting of time, the original flathead was long gone when I bought it and it had a chevy I6 in it. I'm putting a 67 273 in it.

Thanks for any help.

butch's.jpg

Posted

Mine is a '52 Suburban and because of steering box clearance issues, (I'm installing a Mopar 360 V8), I'm going with a '92 Cavalier Rack & Pinion setup, with the stock front suspension. See some of my previous threads for details.

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Posted

Butch offers 2 different kits for small block Chrysler. one kit mounts the engine centered if you are using a rack and pinion steering. The second kit offsets the engine to the passenger side, I think the offset is 1 1/2" for use with stock steering. When ordering you specify which kit you want. Sounds like you got the wrong one.  

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Posted

i'm pretty sure I've got the right kit. The issue is not the left and right (which is what that adapter addresses) but the front to back.

Posted

I fit a 2001 Magnum 5.9L (360) and 46RE tranny into my 1949 business coupe. Those instructions with Butch’s kit didn’t work in my application. I’m keeping the frame and steering stock, at least for this phase of the build. I lowered the mounts below the top of the frame to keep the drivetrain angle at 3 degrees, otherwise the tranny tail would be too high in the cabin The drive side mount is about an inch in front of the steering box. I had to cut the right side mount narrower to fit between the frame & engine. The engine is offset about an inch to the right. This setup only worked because I found a HiPo exhaust manifold that wraps around the steering column. The new radiator is for a 70’s MOPAR. I modified the stock core support to hold the radiator & electric puller fan in the stock location. The fan motor is offset to the left to clear the engine’s top pulley. The main pulley fits in the grove in the frame’s cross member. I had to cut holes in the firewall to clear the back of the heads. Maybe my car’s engine bay is smaller than others because hammering dents in the firewall wasn’t enough clearance for the heads, even if I moved the engine forward. Rather than patch the firewall holes, I decided it was easier to make a new one. I’m working on the floor now, which needs most of it replaced. Hope this help

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Posted

I am following this with great interest, because I am currently putting a 360 into a 1947 D24. My engine hoist blew a seal, so I can't do anymore until that is fixed.

 

The steering box, and firewall will determine were my engine ends up. I have a set of 1973 Dodge motor home mounts, so hope you use those if possible.

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