What is the correct starter motor for a 1949 Town and Country

[ssb115]

I have a late model 1949 Town and Country. I think my starter motor is bad. What starter motor is the correct one for my car in the attached photos? Thanks 

[Plymouthy Adams]

my Motors list two numbers...does not specify engine size or model specific....MAX-4050 (1942-49) and MCL-6101 (1949-50) The specifications on both starters are identical.    Check the # on your data tag

Edited April 17, 2021 by Plymouthy Adams

[ssb115]

Thank you for the response. The MCL- 6101 is the smaller one. 

[chrysler1941]

Engine bay of pre war were narrower, so the solenoid points downwards.

[ssb115]

That’s interesting that the solenoid points down. I have a later model 1949 Town and Country. The later model was different than the earlier model. My solenoid was on top as shown in the attached photo. Do you think that may be the reason why I’m having issues starting the car? 

[Plymouthy Adams]

no I would not thinks so...the position of the solenoid lend nothing to the base operation on the orientation of the engagement.  Look at such things in your starter as poor connections as found by doing voltage drop test battery to unit and internal especially on the brush plate, dragging armature due to rear bushing wear, improper cut on the mica...ensure you have enough umph to start the car...group 2 would be certain on the Chrysler I believe, your battery cables also need to be heavy enough for the higher current of the 6 volt application.  If your starter pulls just a few amps over and above the rated draw....you are now starving you ignition and thus a weaker initial spark.  

[chrysler1941]

Both models will fit yours and has nothing to do as Plymouthy Adams wrote. 

I just want to add about current draw and it's a subject no one thinks about. Fat battery cable to terminal is not enough.

If you look at your manual, cross section of generator, starter etc, ground flows through 2 bolts connecting to crankcase and travels further to grounding brush through 2 very thin long bolts (3+4)to Commutator plate (2). When new, they are sufficient in completing the circuit.  See picture

But our old parts, rust and some even overpainted etc will restrict current flow. 

Solution: Pull one of the long bolts out, clean bolt head and around hole, and install an extra ground strap to a clean area on frame or engine. I hope my English is understandable. 

[ssb115]

Thank you for the information. Your English is excellent. Scott

Edited April 18, 2021 by ssb115

[ssb115]

Chrysler1941, what book or manual did you get the drawing from? Can you post a picture of the cover? Thanks 

[chrysler1941]

8 minutes ago, ssb115 said:

Chrysler1941, what book or manual did you get the drawing from? Can you post a picture of the cover? Thanks 

It's shop manual covering pre war Chryslers. It's a pdf of 300 pages with nice drawings.

I can upload it to you if you have ftp or dropbox.

Pages from Chrysler Shop Manual C28 C30 C33 C34 C36 C37 C38 C39 C40.pdf

Edited April 18, 2021 by chrysler1941

[ssb115]

Thank you so much.