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Posted

 

Dismantled a Stromberg BXV-3 that I got from EBay, most everything came apart/out easily

and everything looks good. There is some 'white rust/corrosion' on the body, but I will bead blast that tomorrow.

Have a rebuild kit ready to go.

 

Questions are; 

Is there any need to remove the lead plugs that are probably factory from drilling ports that could not be casted?

InkedGraphic1_LI_510x1200.jpg.a9af1d602660721aaec606fe19952489.jpg

 

Without the proper tool (unless I make one), I can not get the Metering Jet and Nozzle out, 

is it required to be removed, if I can confirm airflow?

InkedGraphic11_LI_792x1200.jpg.66f15e08f28fef9a9c2b71d462b8001d.jpg  Capture.PNG.8ef6a9fef437e5052bb8a60d0209e57d.PNG

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

Posted

Stromberg made a durable carburetor for many years, but they are not indestructible...whenever I resurrect a carb, I take care not to get too aggressive with the castings, using HF brass bristle brushes, small screwdrivers and dental picks to abrade, stiff wire to clean out passages, and sandpaper on flat glass to true up mounting flanges, all by hand (and by ear).  The only plugs I remove are for any check balls, cuz those passages get gummed up.  Without the proper tool for removal, the main jet can easily be damaged, and sourcing a replacement is a waste of time without that tool.

 

I usually clean a carb in stages:  scrape crud after disassembly; chemical clean soaking for a few hours; cleaning with finer tools; true up flanges; chemical rinsing with carb or brake cleaner; final inspection with a small bright light to check passages and cavities for any missed spots; assembly with new parts.  And with all of this work, there is no guarantee that the carb will run flawlessly as a fouled or eroded jet or passage can cause performance issues...fought with those on many occasions before moving on to other carburetors that responded more positively to rejuvenation efforts...had a Carter and a Stromberg both give me problems with leaks and stalling before replacing with carbs that worked waaay better after cleaning up...both cases I think were victims of worn jets, but had no way to measure so back on the shelf they went, monuments to hard work and attention to detail with unacceptable results :rolleyes:

Posted
12 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

Stromberg made a durable carburetor for many years, but they are not indestructible...whenever I resurrect a carb, I take care not to get too aggressive with the castings, using HF brass bristle brushes, small screwdrivers and dental picks to abrade, stiff wire to clean out passages, and sandpaper on flat glass to true up mounting flanges, all by hand (and by ear).  The only plugs I remove are for any check balls, cuz those passages get gummed up.  Without the proper tool for removal, the main jet can easily be damaged, and sourcing a replacement is a waste of time without that tool.

 

I usually clean a carb in stages:  scrape crud after disassembly; chemical clean soaking for a few hours; cleaning with finer tools; true up flanges; chemical rinsing with carb or brake cleaner; final inspection with a small bright light to check passages and cavities for any missed spots; assembly with new parts.  And with all of this work, there is no guarantee that the carb will run flawlessly as a fouled or eroded jet or passage can cause performance issues...fought with those on many occasions before moving on to other carburetors that responded more positively to rejuvenation efforts...had a Carter and a Stromberg both give me problems with leaks and stalling before replacing with carbs that worked waaay better after cleaning up...both cases I think were victims of worn jets, but had no way to measure so back on the shelf they went, monuments to hard work and attention to detail with unacceptable results :rolleyes:

 

As I am in no rush, a Snap-On socket was ordered this AM, $16 vs Bunging up the jet (a no brainer).

I am hoping this will be a viable carb once rebuilt, seems very sound at this point.

Just had to do some minor 'white rust' clean up on the inside, and bead-blast the outside to have it looking sharp.

There is a NOS on EBay, but at $400 and will probably need a rebuild being so old, I'll try this route first.

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