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Loose distributor plate? stalling after hours on the highway


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Posted

Ran my truck today for about 2 hours or so. Stopped for gas, wouldn't start...popped the distributor cap (already had replaced points and condenser) and found loose wires. Tightened them up but had flooded the carb trying to get it started.

 

Push started it with success, but didn't stay running. Did it again and just kept the RPMs up and back on the highway to finish my trip.

 

Once I got to my destination, the truck died again. Mind you, I had been running at WOT for about 1.5 hours. I had never let it drop or idle. I couldn't get it started again and had to push to a spot under the highway...it's still there and I'm at a motel about 1/4 mile away.

 

I'm thinking ignition advance could be a problem but not sure how to fix. Also, the distributor plate is loose and I don't know how to secure it. This creates problems with setting the point gap, since the plate moves around easily with my hand. There is a hole and a nub under the condenser but the nub broke off. I'm not sure how to get this secure.

 

I only have a day to fix this...so any thoughts are very helpful. I'm about 250 miles from home.

 

1947 1/2 ton with the 218 flathead six.

 

 

Posted

Oof. Sorry to hear that man. 
 

There’s always epoxy, jb-weld, duct tape, and bailing wire. Just don’t forget to fix it right when you get back. 
 

Good job checking the spark a lot of people would start twiddling the carb immediately and make things worse. 
 

Sounds like you found the problem but a lot of times problems that made me limp home involved intake and exhaust leaks too. 
 

Where are you? Near Philly by chance?

Posted

I drove from my current town of Asheville, NC to Charleston, SC.

 

I don't know how to keep the breaker plate down. Are you thinking bailing wire somehow?

Posted

Way too far for me to come with tools. 
 

yeah if you can drill holes or use holes bailing wire could help or it could draw sparks and cause problems. Maybe scuff with sandpaper or a rough rock and epoxy that sucker? A parts store or drugstore even wally world parking lot around? 

Posted

Ah, interesting idea...yes I'm sure I can find something. I was thinking self tapping screw through the plate and into the housing...just needs to be short enough so that it doesn't mess with the mechanical vacuum advance.

 

Posted

Took out the distributor housing and played around with it. I still have the pin that the plate sits on. Wondering if I should attach the pin to the plate or the bottom piece

 

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Posted

Yikes... I don't have much advice on a field fix to get you going, but that is probably why it wouldn't idle. I had a hard starting, rough idle, issue many years back when my cheap points rub block wore down rapidly and my points would barely open. I'd guess that with the points plate floating around that your points weren't functioning properly. Plus the timing would likely float around too. 

 

Could you possibly use machine screw with a locking nut for a temporary fix? It would depend on space above and below for the head and nut. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Merle Coggins said:

Yikes... I don't have much advice on a field fix to get you going, but that is probably why it wouldn't idle. I had a hard starting, rough idle, issue many years back when my cheap points rub block wore down rapidly and my points would barely open. I'd guess that with the points plate floating around that your points weren't functioning properly. Plus the timing would likely float around too. 

 

Could you possibly use machine screw with a locking nut for a temporary fix? It would depend on space above and below for the head and nut. 

 

I have friends down here so we made a hardware store run.

 

I cleaned all the grease off everything, and epoxied the little pin to the plate. Waiting for it to set and then going to see if I can set the timing.

 

I hope it runs as well as it did before...I took this thing 3000 miles in a week back in June!

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