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Posted

pulling is a bit of effort....going back even more so.....but to properly setup and install the 360 especially if attention to a finished engine bay is of concern...it should be removed...massaging of the inner fenders will definitely be in order....

Posted

yes...if it is a finished look you are going for and in truth should have for best air flow for cooling as needed....the 40 is similar to the 41 and I massaged one for a 383 big block...another question of concern is if you are staying stock suspension, upgrading via the kits available for R&P and disc brakes or going all out with a subframe and even a MII kit which will also require frame stubs be installed.  

Posted

When I installed the 318 poly in my 1940 Dodge which is pretty close to a Mopar big block in width I removed the front clip, once installed I found the upper inner fender panels cleared everything without chopping the panels and left the lower inner panels off as they were a close fit on the stock six and with them gone better airflow was present........your 360 is essentially a small block, ie, 273-360 are basically the same physical size so you shouldn't have any issues with clearances BUT for me to effectively being able to setup the engine/trans in the chassis I'd be removing the front clip...........years ago when I was young, fit and silly I once removed the bumper, then hood, then with a mate helping he & I lifted the complete front sheetmetal, grille & fenders off in one lift, each of us lifting from the wheelarch.........nowadays, I'm 66 the fender would be my limit............lol...........have attached a pic taken of me in the Dodge at its 1st drive with the Poly, 1973, I was 19.............lol.......the other pic was of my Oz 1940 Dodge coupe which I bought at 15 & pulled apart like all budding hot rodders do............lol.......regards, andyd   

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Posted (edited)

just a note to what I had done...on the passenger side I welded in a pocket for the alternator to be able to offset and allow adjustment.  I also added a through fitting plate for the AC hoses....and fabricated a mount for the receiver drier.  On the drivers side was a major mod for trimming back the battery tray and beefy mount that is factory to allow for the PS pump  and I fabricated a special box on the remaining battery tray for sundries such as spare brake fluid, oil and such to sit neatly out of the way but to hand.   The inner compartment is readily set up for the narrow inline as you can easily see.   The earlier inner fenders are less invasive than the 49/52 series....these require massive V6 and or V8.  One thing less you have to worry about than did I was the slight frame cross member mod for the oil filter.   I wish to also inform you that you need to consider the positioning of the new radiator and how it will interfere with the above frame ear sway bar.  This would be another major area of reconstruct.  There will be a few tweaks to the left and right radiator support aprons in regard to routing the hoses to the radiator.  Radiator choice will be either with or without tranny cooler internal...just add the tranny cooler on externally

 

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

Plymouthy mentions the sway bar.......I had a 1" thick bar made by a local shop in oz with the same shape as the original which clears everything fine, see attached pic showing the "stock" style shape tho' I have adjustable hiem joint endsand I also have a radiator which was originally mounted a late model Oz car at 90 degrees, ie, horizontally as compared to its being mounted vertically in the Dodge, tho' the upper & lower radiator tanks are ones that have been modified to suit the new setup......this radiator was made & installed 25yrs ago and works fine with a 16" electric fan in front with a manual on/off switch...the original radiator mounting bracketry was installed on the new radiator and it bolts into the radiator surround as per stock , see the attached pic you can see the radiator surround above the radiator top tank............... the last overhaed pic shows the clearance around the engine, even with the inner fender panels in place...................andyd  

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Posted

It looks like u kept most of your inner fenders that looks good i am going to put the battery in the engine compartment to along with 12 volt fuse box. I am going to run no fan blade and run electric fan.

Posted

I left the battery under the front seat for a long time, even when I installed the bucket seats and had to remove the passenger seat to access the battery, eventually I put the battery in the trunk and made a box inset into the trunk /inner fender about 20 yrs ago and its worked well........see pic.........the battery cable runs thru the interior and centre console to an isolator switch which cuts all power and is a good safety/theft idea...........that black button is where the switch mounts into the side of the console..........I've kept the upper inner fender pieces on each side but the lower inners that fit on top of the chassis rails I deleted when I installed the V8, its actually mounted pretty much dead centre but mounted much lower than most people would..........the previous pics show the remote aftermarket oil filter together with oil lines that run forward to an aftermarket oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator.......I also have a 16" electric fan that mounts in front of the radiator and has a manual switch.............  

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Posted

it is a bit more invasive but overall worth the very time to install a late model Dodge frame clip....get the best of everything...clips cost are extremely low cost buy in...little extra work....excellent parts availability.   Just food for thought....the donor frame centerline is almost dead on to factory also.

Posted

first off you can fit a v8 into about anything...second is that NONE are a bolt in that will give you ready set go frame.   Keep in mind since the 90's about everything is cab forward....these old cars are not by design cab forward and any mount on any chassis will require proper positioning.  I found 07 up for the early pre 49 work great...you will set you engine as by the mounts you carry forward from the donor.. cradles from a 88-92 should adapt well, did for me....I made my own engine mounts by modifying the stock spool units from an 88 5th Ave.  No manner if going stock frame or sub....your fabrication of mounts will come into play...as best I know there are zero buy and bolt on the market...but then I am so used to fabricating I never bother to look either.  

Posted

But he's cool stuff  has a weld on motor mount and transmission  mount. I already bought them about 230. There is  no bolt on i have checked every where. So I got the weld on ones . Now I am looking for rear end and probably  will have to have drive line custom made.

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