ChrisMinelli Posted January 29, 2020 Author Report Posted January 29, 2020 The field wire and the armature wire should NOT touch, right? I am getting continuity between AA, AF, FF, and FF when checking at the regulator and the generator. I think there is a short in the wires because (logically) only AA and FF should be continuous, right? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 29, 2020 Report Posted January 29, 2020 you stated in your hood adjust thread you found the book lacking, so I am assuming you have a repair manual for your car. The charging system is very well explained and testing outlined in the book, granted, some old school techniques using older test instruments and super simple test light. When looking for the readings per their test set up you input and out put is given...you must convert the data using the two variables given to you in the book as expected....USE OHMS LAW here, will ballpark you in resistance. And disconnect the wire at the generator and the regulator and read them for continuity. Look close at your insulators and their psychical condition and ability to do their job. Quote
Leo White Posted July 21, 2021 Report Posted July 21, 2021 On 1/12/2020 at 11:29 AM, Cannuck said: Quickest way to to if the generator is working is to start the car then remove a bat cable if it stops your generator isn't working .I will stand corrected if that isn't true .I had this same problem with my rebuilt generator ,did what you did drove it like that the whole summer just kept charging the battery .Eventually cleaned all contacts tore the generator apart again found oil cleaned it all repolerized the gen.and away it went. This is not always the case, I have a 52 cranbrook and thought my Generator was bad after taking off the battery cable, took the Generator to someone that rebuilds them and he tested it on his machine and said it was in great shape, it was putting out 7 volts and 15 amps. The guy said my Voltage Regulator more than likely was is the problem. Quote
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