1938 Dodge RC Pickup Build

[vikingminer49er]

We picked up the 1965 Ford N500 Trailer Toter that had been in Grand Junction for major front end and brake work, and hauled it home.  Got back just at dusk before the roads started to freeze.  Spent the next couple of days getting a new battery for the Ford, and hauling it to have newer used tires installed.  Judy says we are not to spend any more money on the Ford, and she wants it sold this year.  Had meetings on Friday morning for my engineering work.  Can't pass up an opportunity to make some money.  Worked on end-of-year paperwork.

 

Finally got back to the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup project today.  Started with removing the chrome pieces remaining on the hood.  Hood louver trim is missing on the passenger's side.  Removed the hood louver trim from the driver's side.

Edited January 27, 2020 by vikingminer49er

[vikingminer49er]

Hood-door latches are fastened with rivets.  Will leave them attached for now.  Hood-center hinge is also fastened with rivets, and the hood-center chrome strip forms one half of the hood-center hinge.

[vikingminer49er]

Removed the rivets from the hood-center chrome strip.

[vikingminer49er]

With the rivets removed, the hood-center chrome strip slides out from the other half of the hood-center hinge.  The ends of the hood-center chrome strip are different.  The longer end of the hood-center chrome strip goes toward the rear of the hood, closest to the windshield.

[vikingminer49er]

Removed the windshield-frame hinge plates and crank-strip bracket with the impact screw driver.  Attempted to remove the windshield-frame joint screws with the impact screw driver.

[vikingminer49er]

Had to drill and hammer the heads off the windshield-frame joint screws to disconnect to top and bottom sections.  Retrieved the windshield-frame joint covers.

[vikingminer49er]

Couldn't budge the bumper bolts, so started soaking them for later removal.

[RobertKB]

For those bumper bolts soaking them with a penetrant is good but I also use a small wire disc that fits in a drill and clean as much thread as possible before trying to undo the bolts. You probably know this already but just in case...…...also, as I'm sure you know some heat when applied works wonders. Good luck getting them undone!

[vikingminer49er]

Received a photo from Mr. Joe Jarvis, American Iron Hot Rod Shop, in Grand Junction Colorado, showing the 2014 Dodge Charger Hemi engine and transmission placed in the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup frame and cab, for trial fit.  Told him I need at least three photos to take up space for an update.  Hope to get more photos soon.

 

Checked on the radiator and fuel tank repairs yesterday.  Western Slope Radiator is busy with multiple repairs, but has started work on the radiator and fuel tank for my truck.  Will probably be another week before they are done.  Comprehensive insurance coverage is in place for the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup for replacement of value, in the event of loss during the build.

 

Slowly continuing work on a new truck barn for future project work and storage of finished projects, including the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup.  Have received a budget estimate from a potential contractor, contacted the insurance agent for check on replacement and insurance costs, contacted financing source for loan value and costs, and contacted my structural designer to prepare construction drawings.  As expected, everyone thinks I over-design, and over-build.  The concrete walls for the cattle/hay barn are well-suited for the cattle and hay, for which it was designed and built.  I am being convinced the concrete walls are not necessary, or desirable, for a heated truck-repair and storage structure.  My structural designer has convinced me a steel-frame structure, in addition to being more cost effective, would be better with a 20-foot-bay spacing between steel frames.  He recommends a 50-foot-wide span, and 60-foot length, a 20% increase in usable area for minimal cost increase.

 

So, although the two large barn structures will not be identical, they will be similar.  We can use the same metal sheeting for the walls and roof.  The steel-frame, gable-end structure can have a higher center-aisle clearance and lower eave height.  Insulation of the lower wall sections will be better than the concrete wall sections.  Hate arguing with someone who's right.  Since I can't win the argument, will go back to the potential contractor(s) for new budget estimates.  Worst that can happen is the structure will cost less, and won't have to borrow as much money.

[vikingminer49er]

More photos from Joe Jarvis.  Engine and transmission will move farther back and down.  Apparent problems are clearance for the exhaust, and the 2014 Dodge Charger Hemi engine does not have an on-board power-steering pump.  The 2014 Dodge Charger electric-hydraulic, power-steering pump was located in front of the passenger's side front wheel, between the splash guard and the front bumper.  Probably won't use the air-conditioning compressor mounted on-board the engine, in what I would consider the normal power-steering pump location.

 

Planning on having the front and rear axles removed and the frame sandblasted and sealed by next week.  Will be hauling down the grill shell, radiator, lower radiator supports, hood, and radiator/hood support rods next week to keep the project going.  Need to finish gathering up the chrome pieces to send off for chrome plating.

[vikingminer49er]

Brought out the small acetylene-air torch to put some heat into the bumper bolts.  The two replacement bolts twisted off, but the one chrome oval-head bolt was salvaged.  Three areas on the bumper were cracked and farm welded.

[vikingminer49er]

Think these should be the pieces headed for the swim in the three tanks, Copper, Nickel, and Chrome.  Pieces not being sent, if ever, are door handles and hubcaps.  Strongly considering electric-remote, power windows and door openers.  Need to decide on tires, wheels, and if using original hubcaps, finding two more.

[Steve-L]

I found the oval head bumper bolts on epay. Bought some for my 38 bumper. They might work for you if that’s what you’re looking for. 
search for item # 283442608450 

[vikingminer49er]

Thank you for the response on the bumper bolts.  An internet search for oval head bumper bolts turned up several sources including this reference from 2013: https://p15-d24.com/topic/32571-source-of-bumper-bolts/.

 

More photo updates from Joe Jarvis, as he works the Hemi engine and transmission into place.  Appears the engine and transmission will still need to move to the rear and down for clearance of the radiator and driveline.  Will be able to tell more after the grill shell, radiator, hood, and supports are in his shop.  Will make the trip down with the parts as soon as the radiator repairs are completed next week.

 

Exhaust manifold and routing clearance continues to be an issue.  Looking at various exhaust header alternatives for routing the exhaust either tight to the engine and down between the frame rails, or outside the frame rails and under the fenders and running boards.

 

Still need to consider clearance for the steering setup.  Probably be able to tell more after receipt of front suspension parts and k-frame cross member.  First box of parts arrived from ridetech for the air bag system.

 

Edited January 31, 2020 by vikingminer49er

[vikingminer49er]

Received an update from Joe Jarvis today.  He likes where he has the engine and transmission setting right now.  Definitely will use electric cooling fans.  He's configuring for an engine-driven, power-steering pump.  Still haven't decided on exhaust routing.  If we go any lower, it will require a different oil pan with a rear sump.  He's not too worried about the steering linkage, since there are options available.  It is time to start looking at steering columns.

 

While Joe has been working on the 1938, I've been playing with some of my other trucks.  Hauled the 1965 Ford N500 Trailer Toter over to Kwiki Tire II in Hotchkiss Colorado, to put on some better tires.  Tried putting 9.00x20 tires, that were in my stockpile, on the Ford widow-maker wheels, but the tires wouldn't fit on the narrow wheels.  Unknown to the guys on the Ford Truck Enthusiast Forum, 6-hole, 20-inch Dodge Wheels will fit on the Ford hubs.  Replaced the tires and wheels on the Ford with a set I've been running on the 1967 Dodge D500.  The split-ring Dodge wheels are better than the window-maker Ford wheels.  The tread on the tires is better, but the side-wall, weather-checking is only marginally better.

 

Did you know that every farmer has to have at least one Ford?  When everything else is done on the farm, and the farmer has nothing left to do, he can always work on the Ford.  Judy says I can't waste any more money on the Ford.  She wants it sold this year.  After over thirty years of marriage (first 20 years are known as the probationary period), I've learned at least a couple of lessons.  Be like your trailer, and always go where you're towed.  The cheapest thing you can do is pay attention.  It doesn't cost much, and provides excellent benefits.

 

Have spent enough on the Ford to claim mechanical restoration complete.  Told the owner of my local NAPA store that my Ford F500 changed into a Ford N500 when it had more NAPA parts than Ford parts.  Still needs new tires and wheels, seat recovered, new radio knobs, and paint.  Of course, as soon as I paint it, someone will want a different color.  Only needs to be finished by the next proud, happy owner; however, that only counts until tomorrow.  Fixed Or Repaired Daily.  Found On Road Dead.  Fast Only Running Downhill.  Fat Old Rusted Dog.  Could go on forever.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8QT2e4r-H8

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sXkHpaa7q4

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAHCFV2ccvw

Edited February 3, 2020 by vikingminer49er

[vikingminer49er]

Went to Montrose Colorado yesterday to pick up the radiator for the 1938 Dodge RC Pickup, then on to Grand Junction Colorado to deliver the radiator, grill shell, hood, and supports to American Iron Hot Rod Shop.  Good discussion with Joe Jarvis about the engine placement, and position of the radiator and grill shell.  We can, and need to, move the engine back far enough to clear the radiator from the front of the engine.  Still have tight clearance for the exhaust manifolds, and the alternator.  Probably can't lower the engine, and depending on hood clearance, may be able to move the engine higher.  Will be able to tell more when the radiator, grill shell, hood, and supports are in place.  An exhaust builder will be over on Wednesday to look at the project. 

 

We have basically two choices for the exhaust routing:  inside the frame rails and outside the frame rails:

Inside the frame rails:

  Exhaust manifolds tight to the engine.

  Exhaust manifold outlets as far to the rear as possible.

  Exhaust runs down between the rails.

  Exhaust runs under the cab.

  More heat inside the cab.

  Both sides have to clear cross member for the transmission support.

  Both sides have to clear cross member below the seat.

  Driver's side has to clear the fuel tank.

  Both sides have to clear cross members to the rear of the fuel tank.

  Both sides have to clear the multi-link rear suspension.

  Both sides have to clear the rear axle.

  Both sides have to clear the added transmission oil cooler.

  More heat for the added transmission oil cooler.

  Exhaust exits the vehicle to the rear.

Outside the frame rails:

  Exhaust manifolds out through the side splash covers.

  Exhaust manifold outlets towards the center of the engine.

  Exhaust runs down outside the rails.

  Driver's side has to clear the steering linkage.

  Passenger's side has to clear the spare tire well.

  Exhaust runs under the front fenders and running boards.

  Less heat inside the cab.

  Exhaust exits the vehicle to the sides behind the cab.

 

"And she purrs like a kitten 'til the lake pipes roar."  Just some thoughts.

 

Didn't take many photos while there, since I wanted to start taking some video of the project.  Spent today creating a photo slide slow summarizing the tear down, and uploading the photo slide show and first video of the build onto youtube.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXvLPSdxIKA

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9wV2QCq1uU

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZeK1lZ90AQ

 

Did take a few photos.  Found the fasteners for the radiator supports quickly from the box of fasteners, by looking at the photos from the tear down, noting the dates the parts were removed, and looking in the box for the fasteners filed by date.  Also, took a few photos of the lower shock mounts, as requested by someone looking for the parts.  Have sold the original shocks and shock mounts.  Original axles, springs, and steering are still available.

Edited February 5, 2020 by vikingminer49er

[vikingminer49er]

Update photos from Joe Jarvis with the grill shell mounted, and the engine and transmission repositioned.  Looks like the fit is coming along nicely.  Right now the engine is all the way back to the firewall, and any further back will require cutting the firewall.  Will need to fabricate a drive shaft  tunnel under the seat for clearance.  Next steps will be to place the radiator inside the grill shell, and place the hood.  Should have vertical clearance for the hood.

[vikingminer49er]

Still working on preparing parts for shipping for chrome plating.  Hope to have all of them ready by the end of the week.

 

Also, been working on plans for the super truck barn.  Have decided the concrete walls, like the cattle/hay barn, are not necessary, and adds too much to the cost.  Will use a pre-engineered steel building with siding, roofing, windows, and doors similar to the cattle/hay barn.  Attached the preliminary drawing for review nd comments.  Thank you.

FLOOR PLAN 16' eave-2-5-20 Model.pdf

[vikingminer49er]

Oh! Oh!  I made a mistake.  Before I can send the parts to be chrome platted, they need to be disassembled.  The handbrake handle needed the button, rod, and bottom link removed from the handle.  Obviously, even with the bottom link removed, it didn't look like the pre-bent rod could be pulled through the handle.  Thinking the top button must screw onto a threaded end on the rod, tried to unscrew the top button.  Wrong!  A very small pin at the base of the button, which I did not see, held the top button onto the rod.  The heavy hands of ignorance managed to twist the button until the rotational-shear force broke the rod at the pin hole.  Pinhead!  Will need to fabricate a new rod, hopefully, with the same pre-bent shape, to release the handbrake when it is reassembled.  Needed heat to remove the windshield-crank-handle clip and pin keeping the assembly together.  Parts will ship out to North Star Plating in Brainerd Minnesota on Monday.

[vikingminer49er]

Radiator has been installed, and engine and transmission adjustments have been made.  Engine and transmission position required cutting the firewall, will require modification to the lower firewall pieces, and fabrication of a driveline tunnel under the seat.  Fatman suspension parts arrived on Tuesday.  Original front axle and suspension have been removed, and the Fatman suspension has been positioned.  Will require an oil pan change to a rear sump for the 2014 Dodge Charger Hemi engine.  Parts to be re-chromed were sent to North Star Platting yesterday.

Edited February 13, 2020 by vikingminer49er

[vikingminer49er]

Middle of February, the weather on the Western Slope of Colorado starts to change.  Not likely to seen the really cold temperatures of January.  Turns milder, and muddy.  We'll still get snowstorms, sometimes as late as May and June.  In case you never noticed, by the middle of March, winter is gone.  That's why the groundhog always predicts six more weeks of winter.  Just ask Bill Murray.

 

Perfect time to start planning outdoor projects.  The structural designer has completed the foundation design for the New Truck Shop.  Ready to start layout, but still have to clear the construction site.  Have had the 1975 Dodge S700 Earnhardt party bus parked where the south end of the New Truck Shop will be.  Haven't had the bus running in several years.  Fired it up with gasoline from a 1-gallon, transfusion tank, hooked to the inlet side of the fuel pump.  On-board compressor put the air in the air brakes, blasted the air horn a few times to announce it's immanent movement, and tried to get it to move.  It had been sitting in one spot so long, it had trouble getting out of the frozen depressions under the wheels.  Gave it a tug with the Bobcat 322 Excavator to bring it back to the surface.  Slowly drove it the length of the bus to clear enough room for laying out the foundation area.  Throttle linkage needs some work, before driving the bus out back to the truck yard, to get it all the way out of the construction area.

 

The New Truck Shop will replace the old wooden corral area.  The old wooden posts have been pretty well rotted away by years of use.  Steel corral panels have been supporting the wooden corral for some time.  We used to have horses, and some cow-calf pairs, but we just raise a few feeder steers now.  Definitely time to put the area to a higher, and better, use.

Edited February 19, 2020 by vikingminer49er

[vikingminer49er]

Started removing the corral panels to clear the area for the New Truck Shop.  Will reset a line of corral panels to the south side to allow construction room, and separate the pasture from the construction area.

[vikingminer49er]

The 1975 Dodge S700 Earnhardt Bus sprung an oil leak from the oil pressure sending unit.  Removed the unit for now and plugged the hole to stop the leak.  Fired up the bus and backed it around the cattle/hay barn, where some vehicles are stashed to make construction room for the New Truck Shop.  Posted a youtube video of the bus backing up.  If you watch the video, you'll see a squirrel escaping from the cattle/hay barn to find a new hiding place in the woodpile.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfQa6CrjAfQ

[vikingminer49er]

Posted another video showing the corral are to clear before start of construction.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ff_89r-Ys74

 

Photos of clearing the construction site.

[vikingminer49er]

Brought in some road base to deal with the muddy spots before the rains start.  Got some help from a couple of younger neighbors.