reground cam ... new or reground lifters?

[kencombs]

For those that have used a non-stock profile reground cam:

 

Did you have the lifters reground, use new lifters or just reuse the originals?

 

On high spring pressure or high(er) RPM overhead valve engines, new lifters are a must. 

 

What is the experience of the brain trust here on reground cams and flatheads with stock springs?

 

 

[kencombs]

I guess from the lack of updates here, that most followed the cam grinders suggestion, whatever that was.

 

I'm tempted to reuse my lifters.  Lifters or regrind cost more than the cam.  Close examination with a machinist's scale indicates that none of them show any wear, and still have the slight convex profile on the bottom.  No wear pattern and low spring pressure.  Might just gamble.

 

OTOH, it sure is a long way back in there if it fails.

[Sharps40]

Rule of thumb....new cam, new lifters and/or reground cam, new lifters. 

Edited November 22, 2019 by Sharps40

[kencombs]

41 minutes ago, Sharps40 said:

Rule of thumb....new cam, new lifters and/or reground cam, new lifters. 

Yeah, I know but was just asking if there is any experience here counter to conventional wisdom.  Wouldn't even consider it with a higher spring pressures, heavier valve train and higher RPM engines.

[Sharps40]

Time and money.  If you have the cost of a second cam, lifters and gaskets laid back in the checkbook go for it.   Otherwise its potentially less costly to break in new parts together 

Edited November 22, 2019 by Sharps40

[kencombs]

What is extra scary about taking the risk is the lack of a full flow filter in the stock configuration.  So, all the metal filings that go with a cam/lifter interface failure circulate with the oil.  So rod, cam and main bearings would also suffer.

 

I need a reason to do a full flow mod, maybe that's it.  I've seen two approaches, both using drilled and tapped access holes to the oil output.  One goes on the pump side, the other just above the oil pressure regulator valve on the drivers side.

 

anyone here have first hand knowledge or experience with these?  Both seem to use a 1/4" pipe fitting tapped into the block converting to an AN/JIS hose/tube. 

[mlozier76]

This is a very old topic, but this is what was recommended when I had my cam and tappets done.  I have copied from the MoparMontana website (currently inoperative).  I'm mainly trying to save the info to help others who may have had the work done as I did. I did remove the address because I don't know if Earl is still taking on work or not, and iI don't want to overstep.  When I had my friends drop the cam off, he was doing other work.   Information gets misplaced from time to time.  The recommendations for break-in are at the bottom in the bullet points.

 

Boy Racer Grind


This camshaft provides noticeably more power without sacrificing low end torque. Great for a daily driver full-bodied car or truck. Good vacuum and idle. Slight lope, and excellent drivability.


Advertised duration - 260*
Duration @ .050" - 222*
Lift - .410"
Lash - .014"



 

• All cams require good, usable cam and lifter cores.
• Buyer must pay actual shipping to and from.
• All cams and lifters are ground to order.
• Turn-around is within 30 days from our receipt of your cam.
• Proper cam lube, assembly technique, high quality "break-in" oil, and proper cam break-in procedure at first startup are IMPERATIVE with flat tappet cams!