classiccarjack Posted April 13, 2017 Report Posted April 13, 2017 I just read down further and realized that a couple of you like Duplicolor. Sorry guys, I just can't get it to look as good as other paints that I have used. I honestly don't want you to think that I was knocking you guys for liking the product. It just doesn't suit me. Quote
DrDoctor Posted April 14, 2017 Report Posted April 14, 2017 Niel, I had to look up Wartburg, and learned that From the 1950’s, the Wartburg had three-cylinder two-stroke engines, with only 7 major moving parts. As such, I’m guessing that the engine isn’t all that large, so my questions are: how much power does it produce, how difficult is it to acquire parts, and with only 7 major moving parts—there can’t be much wear on the engine??? Quote
40plyguy Posted April 14, 2017 Report Posted April 14, 2017 I've had good luck on other engines with POR I think it's called Marine Kleen or something like that to pretreat the engine block and other components. Then spray a coat of Rustoleum red primer for rusty metal. Then topcoated with regular Rustoleum paint. It takes quite a while to dry but has proved durable in the past. The only time I've ever painted anything exhaust related was in 1970. I got a fancy set of Hooker headers for my '68 Javelin. Pulled them out of the box, wiped them down and painted them white with expensive VHT paint. Hung them up on my ma's washline to dry. By the time they were installed they were white with greasy fingerprints. Started the engine and as it warmed up the paint started burning off. Found a note later in the header box that said the factory applied silver paint was only for temporary rust protection and needed to be removed before any other coating was applied. As they say "when all else fails read the instructions". 1 Quote
Niel Hoback Posted April 14, 2017 Report Posted April 14, 2017 DrDoctor, I don't want to hijack a thread or get too far off topic, so short answers. The engine makes a good 50 hp to move a 1990 lb car quite smartly. There are several parts suppliers in Europe, so I can get most anything I need. I bought the car from my son who has two more and his own stash of parts. I don't need to find oil filters ! The car doesn't have many miles on it, so wear isn't really evident. I have many pictures, but not on this device. I guess I didn't keep it short after all. Quote
John-T-53 Posted April 14, 2017 Report Posted April 14, 2017 16 hours ago, 40plyguy said: I've had good luck on other engines with POR I think it's called Marine Kleen or something like that to pretreat the engine block and other components. Then spray a coat of Rustoleum red primer for rusty metal. Then topcoated with regular Rustoleum paint. It takes quite a while to dry but has proved durable in the past. ....snip..... Marine Clean is the POR brand's water-based cleaner / degreaser. I haven't ever used this but I assume it's very similar to "Super Clean" (purple spray bottle) that you can find in your local parts store. Using a good cleaner like this, followed by an acid wash / etch (Jasco "Prep n' Prime", or "Ospho") is the procedure I go with for painting anything now. It results in very good adhesion of the paint to the metal and makes it very chip resistant. POR makes several top coats to go over their standard "POR" in the can, such as "Chassis Black", but like you I've found that top coating with Rust-Oleum or others works great too. I did this on my frame - two coats of POR, then when the second coat was almost dry (a little tacky) I hit it with Rust-Oleum flat black. It has proven to be very durable over the years! I believe POR's engine paints say to start with the regular black POR paint as a "primer", then use their engine paint as a top coat. Quote
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