Norm's Coupe Posted September 20, 2007 Report Posted September 20, 2007 Would love to get a key fitted to the trunk lock... but I have no idea how to remove the cylinder w/o a key... De Soto Frank Frank, do what I did with my trunk lock. I could not open mine with a key either when I bought the coupe. I just removed the whole lock assembly and handle, and took it all to the locksmith. He made a key and I put the whole assembly back in as one again. So, you don't need to get the cylinder out of the handle assembly. At least it worked that way on my 48 Plymouth. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted September 20, 2007 Report Posted September 20, 2007 Norm......it all depends upon having a locksmith capable of doing the job. The one I took my trunk lock to said he could do it.......finally produced a key that barely works, and messed up that collar where the shaft attaches on the back side. That'll be $17.50 please. The old locksmith, who is no longer in business here, used to use that little gun-like tool to "shoot" the lock and could produce a key that worked in real short order. A present lock guy said they outlawed those guns - i guess because the crooks know how to operate them as well. Nobody here seems to have one now. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted September 21, 2007 Report Posted September 21, 2007 Bob, you are right the locksmith has to know what he is doing or things can get messed up. Those guys can do it right if they want to though, even if the law says they can't. Example: I have an old parking meter on a post next to my garage. It is supposed to have two keys. One to open up the part for setting and repairing the timing devise. The other key for opening the coin box. Well......believe it or not, it's legal to have a key for the coin box, but it's illegal to have a key made for the timing devise. Go figure. So.....when I was restoring it I only had the coin box key, but I wanted both because I wanted to make the timer work too. Not all locksmiths are allowed to make any keys for those, so had to make several calls until I found an old timer. Took the meter into him to make a key. That's when he said he couldn't make an exact copy of a key for me. But........he then said, let me keep it for the day and I'll see if I can change the lock tumblers and make a different key. Went back the next day and he had done just that. Now I have a key for both sections using the same old locks. So........where there's a will there's a way. Most locksmiths probably just don't want to take the time. Gotta find some old timer looking for a challenge. Quote
mikemaker Posted September 23, 2007 Report Posted September 23, 2007 Like Norm said, take the whole assembly to a locksmith. He will pick the lock, depress the retainer pin, pop the cyl and fit a key. Should take him 30 minutes, and should probably cost you 30.00. I rekeyed my plymouth so the ignition & trunk were keyed alike, I've done that for various folks. it's much more convenient for me to only have to worry about 1 key. The milling is the same, just a different shaped head. Quote
Frank M. Posted September 23, 2007 Report Posted September 23, 2007 Just thought Id add----The smooth locks were used on early P-15s. They were made by Hurd,and Ford used them too. Somewhere down the line,in late 46, Ply. changed the the CA swingaway waterproof lock. People up north were having trouble with the Hurds being left uncovered,and freezing up. Optionally ordered was the combo set of Ign.-and TWO door locks that all used the same key. I also found a locksmith that made even the trunk lock work with the same key. Quote
splat1955 Posted September 23, 2007 Report Posted September 23, 2007 Lots of good info on the lock systems for the Dodges & Plymouths here. I spoke to Mikemaker yesterday via phone about my locks. Man, he is a wealth of excellent info.....and a nice guy to talk to as well. He filled me in on what I needed to get my truck and glove locks working....with info that I will give the locksmith I am going to take my locks to. Thanks Mike. And if I don't feel my locksmith doesn't have the ability, I will PM you about sending my locks your way....but with the info you gave me I think this guy will be able to take handle the job. Just to confirm the blanks, you said either Y-11 or B-1.....is that correct. And thanks again for giving me a call, I appreciate it Mike. Hey, and if your ever up this way visiting family or whatever, maybe think about stopping in if you have time. Quote
mikemaker Posted September 24, 2007 Report Posted September 24, 2007 Sorry, it's a Y 12 that fits my Glovebox keyway and possibly a B 1 blank may work for the glove box lock, Y 12's are super common, have your locksmith try that first, I'll bet it fits like a glove. There may have been a few different keyways for the glove box lock and I know that they were manufactured by more than one company. Your locksmith will have those blanks and can check them out. as far as the trunk lock, an ILCO XO1199B is what you want. For ignition, ILCO X1199B (same key, different shaped head) your locksmith can use those numbers to cross reference to a Taylor, or Yale or whatever else maybe a n old Curtis. The yale # I believe is: X 237 and the National # for the trunk is: Y 127. Those are old numbers, but locksmiths that have been around will most probably have one or the other. I have a few. Quote
mikemaker Posted September 24, 2007 Report Posted September 24, 2007 When I was pulling out those trunk keys I ran across these door lock cylinders that I keyed alike some time ago. The shafts are a little different but they will work just fine in the doors. If anyone is interested in them, send me an email make, me a reasonable offer. I don't need them. Oh yea, they are the earlier type, not the figure 8's. Quote
splat1955 Posted September 24, 2007 Report Posted September 24, 2007 Hey Mike, Thanks for the updated info.....You may have told my Y-12 the other night....Anyway, I've got all the info on paper now, and hopefully my spring silencers will come in early this week so I can get the Dodge off the jack stands and back on the ground. Then it's straight to the alignment shop and from there to the locksmith. Hey, thanks again Mike. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 24, 2007 Report Posted September 24, 2007 Mike In the lock on the left there is a little barrel shapped piece that holds the cylinder and shaft together. Any idea how to get one of those? I have a pair of the figure 8 locks that came out of my p15 but the PO broke one of the little barrel pieces. Quote
mikemaker Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Howdy Ed; Sorry to hear that. I don't have believe I have a spare and the only way to get one of those is from a donor lock. You should be able to find one without a key for a couple bucks at the swap. Anyways, if you get a hold of an old lock somewhere, I can walk you through getting the retainer clip off the housing without breaking it. Sometimes they get pretty rusted up from sitting around. Quote
Young Ed Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Thanks Mike thats what I figured. And of course the one extra lock I have is like the right one in your picture. Otherwise I'd already be swapping stuff around! Quote
mikemaker Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 I think you could just swap the tailpiece. Quote
Allan Faust Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Here is your losers trophy:D Don, Because it is Norm, that roll should've been paper towels..... He could bring it to restaurants to show it off..... Allan Quote
Young Ed Posted September 25, 2007 Report Posted September 25, 2007 Mike I didn't see an obvious way to switch them around. The one with the flat cover didn't have that little pin at the back like the later ones do. At least not that I saw. Quote
mikemaker Posted September 27, 2007 Report Posted September 27, 2007 As far as I can figure they should be the same. Send me a pic and I'll figure out a solution for ya. Quote
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