Cold Blue Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 I have the distributor out on the work bench, replacing the missing wire between the insulated port and the points. On a previous post, I found out that the wire to the points was jury-rigged by a previous owner and did not use the insulated port, but simply drilled a hole in the side of the distributor cap to connect the wire from the coil to the points! And a ground wire was connected to the insulated port, with did absolutely nothing. The internal port wire was missing entirely. I have installed a new internal port wire with a terminal at one end (soldered) and because of the very limited space available at the insulated port screw, I tinned the wire end and formed it into a hook, and looped it around the internal insulated port screw. I have checked continuity, and everything is hunky-dory. I checked the vacuum advance unit, and it's shot. This is my question - with a new vacuum advance operating the breaker plate, I worry that continuous flexing will eventually break my new wire at the insulated port screw. I imagine that the factory original connection was probably an insulated braided wire of some sort? I am open to any suggestion as to what I should use. I will buy a factory wire if I could only find one..I have not been successful in that endeavor. (The blue wire just above the condenser lead is the wire in question)...I have included a photo of how the dizzy was wired previously. The red wire was connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Thanks so much! Blue. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 What’s your distributor number? Some of the guys here have Autolite catalogs that can get you the correct part number for that wire. With that you can do some more refined searching. Quote
Cold Blue Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Posted March 19, 2019 7 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said: What’s your distributor number? Some of the guys here have Autolite catalogs that can get you the correct part number for that wire. With that you can do some more refined searching. Auto-lite Part #1120566; Auto-lite No. IGS-4207-1; Serial No. 7C135409. Quote
Cold Blue Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Posted March 19, 2019 49 minutes ago, Cold Blue said: Auto-lite Part #1120566; Auto-lite No. IGS-4207-1; Serial No. 7C135409. I would also love to have the part number for the port rubber insulator. Mine is hard and brittle - one inside tab is broken already, as you can see in the photo. Quote
desoto1939 Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 OK for the dizzy that you have the wires are numbers as Autolite Primary Lead IGS-181 or for Echlin LW6 Ground Lead Autolite IAT-14 Echlin LW1 these were all used in the Plymouth from 1940- 49 Richard hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
desoto1939 Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 (edited) I do see these rubber insulators on ebay and have been sold by Frank Mitchell Try this on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-MB-Ford-GPW-A1660-Ignition-Autolite-Distributor-IGC-Rubber-Grommet-G503 cost is $5 this might be what you are looking for. rich hartung Edited March 19, 2019 by desoto1939 Quote
Cold Blue Posted March 19, 2019 Author Report Posted March 19, 2019 27 minutes ago, desoto1939 said: I do see these rubber insulators on ebay and have been sold by Frank Mitchell Try this on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-MB-Ford-GPW-A1660-Ignition-Autolite-Distributor-IGC-Rubber-Grommet-G503 cost is $5 this might be what you are looking for. rich hartung Thanks Rich! Exactly what I am looking for! Quote
Merle Coggins Posted March 19, 2019 Report Posted March 19, 2019 There you go... And take those Echlin numbers Rich provided to your local Napa store to get the wires. Echlin is a Napa brand. 1 Quote
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