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Posted

Hey there, I’ve been lurking for a bit, and I’m digging the advice given, I’ve got a ‘48 D24 kinda ratty driver, now apart to deal with some engine and rust issues, problem is I had the wrist pin bushings done and I found the #6 rod small end was out of round, made the mistake of not knowing what I was doing and ordered rods claimed to be from a 230 engine on  fleabay..... yup they seem to be rods from one of the bigger engines the offset being wrong etc....

local we have a guy selling a 218 for cheap, has anyone used 218 rods in the 230, I am aware the 218 rods are a hair longer, but had anyone ever relieved the head for such a thing, I’ve seen some flat heads using pop up pistons, my Harley K engine is set up like that, but in the end is it really worth it

Posted (edited)

you  must use the 230 length rods if you have the 230 crank.....there is more to this than the piston popping out the top, me thinks you will encounter issues with piston lands also....

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

Gotcha, kinda thought so but I wanted to verify if it’s been done, seems 2,4 and 6 rods are getting scarce 

thank you

Posted (edited)

Actually you would be better off with longer rods. If you don't have new pistons yet, have some made with a slightly higher wrist pin + you get a modern piston / ring design.  If I ever go through my 230, I'll install 218 rods with shorter more modern pistons.

 

On edit: assemble 1 cylinder and see how far the piston actually comes out.  Some of these engines don't come all the way to the deck, might be ok with fly cutting the piston a little????  But then you still have a 4 ring pack long heavy piston.

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
  • Like 2
Posted

 

Yeah Adam, I recal some info I read from Smokey Yunick years ago about piston dwell time at top dead center being good to promote longer burn time and allowing for more complete pressure build, I think I’m describing it correctly, been a while since I read about it

 

 

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