dale Posted January 6, 2019 Report Share Posted January 6, 2019 Ive been going thru this site looking for a posting I read once by a poster who installed a rack and pinion and kept the original steering wheel but can t seem to find it. Help from anyone who has done this please. Could use info about what was-is used before I get to this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blucarsdn Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 I would suggest that you rethink converting the original steering on your Plym to rack/pinion steering. In my opinion you are heading down a slippery slope that will result in an unsafe vehicle. Additionally, your comment about using the original steering is not a good idea.. The large original wheel is not friendly to the ratio of the rack/pinion. I did a lot of research before I converted the front suspension under my '39 Plym conv cpe to rack/pinion steering. I used a stage III FatMan front clip with 12" disk brakes that was made to fit my car. I used a FatMan setup because FatMan is the only aftermarket company that makes a front clip specifically designed to fit the Plym's. I used a GM tilt column with a 14" steering wheel, which is a stock modern size. My steering wheel is a LaCarra Banjo type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 I believe there are folks with the skill level here that can proceed with fabrication and not have to depend on popular plug and play bolt ons…..but hopefully they know who they are and stay within their limitations and skill sets... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted January 7, 2019 Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 I've had a rack & pinion in my Dodge since 1973 and have installed late model "normal" steering boxes in a couple of different mopar over the years.......its not rocket science BUT its not a straight forward job either............if you want a rack & pinion then thats relatively straight forward now that there are some kits to install the cavalier racks, however my understanding is that they require due to the nature of the install that you use a late model column and a floor shifter for the trans which is usually attached to an engine swap as well............if you have installed the rack and want the original wheel then you have to find an adaptor to mount the wheel to a late column or if using the original column then the column mounted shifter complicates the issue and then you have to work out some way to allow the shifter tube to work and at the same time attach some sort of uni joint etc to connect up the steering to the aforementioned rack & pinion.......the overall "easiest" way would be the use a late model column and a separate floor shifter which then means you just have to adapt the steering wheel............maybe find a shop which can modify the wheel to suit or use one of the various aftermarket 50's style GM steering wheels which without the GM logos will still suit the style of the car............my Dodge uses a modified late 60's Oz Mopar top collapsable coloumn with a home made lower section going to the narrowed 9" rack.........still working 40 yrs later ............apologies for the poor pics..............regards, Andy Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blucarsdn Posted January 8, 2019 Report Share Posted January 8, 2019 I used a late model GM tilt column from a GM van, did not require any shortening. I liked the late model GM column because I did not want anything on the '39 dash that did not belong there. The wiper, dimmer, and ignition switch are all incorporated within the column. I had to use a floor mounted shifter because the GM column conflicted with the dash. I wanted a consul on the floor so the floor shift fit right in. I like your interior Andy, one slight thing tho, steering is on the wrong side. Wm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom973 Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 (edited) Hi, Why do you want the rack n pinion, is it to make the steering lighter? if so you could fit electric assist and keep the box and steering wheel and column gear change as is. if for another reason then ignore this post. Tom Edited January 10, 2019 by Tom973 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 On 1/7/2019 at 11:25 AM, blucarsdn said: I would suggest that you rethink converting the original steering on your Plym to rack/pinion steering. In my opinion you are heading down a slippery slope that will result in an unsafe vehicle. Additionally, your comment about using the original steering is not a good idea.. The large original wheel is not friendly to the ratio of the rack/pinion. I did a lot of research before I converted the front suspension under my '39 Plym conv cpe to rack/pinion steering. I used a stage III FatMan front clip with 12" disk brakes that was made to fit my car. I used a FatMan setup because FatMan is the only aftermarket company that makes a front clip specifically designed to fit the Plym's. I used a GM tilt column with a 14" steering wheel, which is a stock modern size. My steering wheel is a LaCarra Banjo type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 Reason why the original isn't "friendly " to a rack and pinion ? Id think the larger diameter would make for slower steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 The car already has a V-8 with automatic floor shift. Think Ive got the steering column issue figured out but there was a post here where the poster described just what I want to do. THX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 23 minutes ago, dale said: Reason why the original isn't "friendly " to a rack and pinion ? Id think the larger diameter would make for slower steering. you be thinking wrong....it is actually reverse of your thinking....fewer turns lock to lock than the smaller wheel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 20 minutes ago, dale said: The car already has a V-8 with automatic floor shift. Think Ive got the steering column issue figured out but there was a post here where the poster described just what I want to do. THX I remember the post....it is not a difficult task, look at what you have now, drop the shifting mechanism as you have the floor shift now....cut outer and inner at different lengths and add a coupler and a bearing/bushing plug. Consider a collapsing coupler for safety...by eliminating the shifter as you have, you have eliminated all the tedious stuff from this task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 On 1/10/2019 at 8:48 AM, Plymouthy Adams said: I remember the post....it is not a difficult task, look at what you have now, drop the shifting mechanism as you have the floor shift now....cut outer and inner at different lengths and add a coupler and a bearing/bushing plug. Consider a collapsing coupler for safety...by eliminating the shifter as you have, you have eliminated all the tedious stuff from this task. I ordered a 3/4 dia steering shaft for a 55- 57 chevy rack setup which they said I could return if the Plymouth wheel doesn't fit. We will see about that and if it doesn't I can always cut off the original and have it cleaned up to .750 to go thru the flange bearing at the firewall. Inserting another 3/4 bearing into the housing near the lower end. Its all looking good. Will be getting tie rod ends etc. for the Cavalier rack today or Monday. Not sure about how a "collapsing coupler works or what it is for that manner. Havnt got that far as of yet. Thx, Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 On 1/10/2019 at 8:45 AM, Plymouthy Adams said: you be thinking wrong....it is actually reverse of your thinking....fewer turns lock to lock than the smaller wheel... Wouldn't a larger wheel take longer hand movement than a smaller one ? You could for instance make a 180 degree turn of say a 12 inch dia steering wheel much quicker than one much bigger ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted January 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2019 (edited) On 1/12/2019 at 12:03 PM, dale said: I ordered a 3/4 dia steering shaft for a 55- 57 chevy rack setup which they said I could return if the Plymouth wheel doesn't fit. We will see about that and if it doesn't I can always cut off the original and have it cleaned up to .750 to go thru the flange bearing at the firewall. Inserting another 3/4 bearing into the housing near the lower end. Its all looking good. Will be getting tie rod ends etc. for the Cavalier rack today or Monday. Not sure about how a "collapsing coupler works or what it is for that manner. Havnt got that far as of yet. Thx, Dale It took some real work with a file and emery cloth but I worked the Cavalier rack and pinion arms down to thread to 11/16-18.. Now I can use original 46 Plymouth left hand thread tie rod ends and shorten the original adjusters and tap right hand threads into the adjusters. Will have solid parts zero damn metric crap. Edited January 27, 2019 by dale error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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