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Posted

HI all, have a ?. Would it be possible to use a good gas tank top from my gas tank, and to attach it to another tank with a good bottom. Both 48 Chrysler tanks. I would seperate the halves first, clean and line tank with appropriate lining, then have it welded/soldered together. Just an idea I have, because someone has a tank with a good bottom, but a weak top, and I have a really good top on my gas tank...............Fred

Posted

Sounds good to me, there is a huge hole in the bottom of mine, so no fumes, no gas in there for 35 to 40 years. The other tank, I will try some method as described. This will be taken apart by Moi, and welded together by an expert. I will clean up the tank and prep it for welding. Any other ideas appreciated.............Fred

Posted
Where can you buy reproduction tanks? Just found out mine is leaking today...'49 Coronet :)

You can buy a new tank a few different places.

1) Ply Do sells a poly tank. It's not a direct fit and requires modifications to the mounting of the tank. Does fit though. Cost about $215, plus shipping.

2) Tanks Inc. claims they have an exact reproduction tank. Think theirs runs about $215 to $250 plus shipping and is a steel tank.

3) Rock Auto Parts makes a stainless reproduction tank. That runs around $600.

Tanks Inc. and Rock Auto both have web sites, just run a search. PlyDo use to have a web site, not sure if they still do. However, their phone number is in the links section of this site.

Guest jtw3749c
Posted

Okay guys, I have done this many times over and it works great on gas tanks. If you want to try this, here is what I do, before I weld on a tank.

After the tank is off, I get it so I can run a car exhaust pipe into the tank. Be it with exhaust hose or by sticking it on the end of the pipe. I let it run for 20 to 30 minutes. After this I get my torch or my welder and do what I have to do, WITHOUT any kind of flame up or explosion. Of course it works, I'm typing this, right?

I have not tried this on a tank that is coated with the old gummy gas in it!

If it still makes you nervous, you can get a long stick and tie a match to it and poke it in the hole. :D

The above will warm the gas tank and I'm told that the carbon monoxide kills the fumes. Works for me. Try it, at your own risk. Just be careful. Smell the tank after the exhaust pipe trick.

Posted

fire can only exist if one of the three components (oxygen, fuel and heat) are present.

One of them missing will kill the fire or will not allow the fire (or explosion) to occur.

Baed on that extinguishers are made.

CO2 will push away the O2

Foam will shield the fuel from O2

etc

So exhaust gasses may do this trick as well but once air gets in again the risk of explosion will increase.

John

Posted

The only thing I've noticed about replacement new gas tanks is.....they do not usually look like the old original tank.

But far better than a rusted out bad original.

Posted

Thanx for the input guys, my tank has a huge hole in the bottom of it, no gummy deposits or old gas in there, highly unlikely it's combustable, but will take all precautions, with it and the other tank. If I can seperate the 2 tanks, clean and prep both good halves, they can easily be joined (welded) afterwards...........Fred. This may cost me a $100.00, compared to $350.00, price of new tank, shipping, duty and exchange..............Fred

Posted

The radiator shop in Macon Ga handles repairs of lots of gas tanks.

They boil out the tank in a vat then leave it in the vat overnight and rinse it off in the am then begin the repairs. They also sometimes -if say working on top fill it with water to say1/2 full. They tell me they have never had a problem with combustion.

Lou

Posted

Here are the 2 tanks in question. As you can see both have a bad side. The one tanks was in decent shape, but has tiny holes on the top side, the other tank has a big hole punched into the bottom. Any ideas, suggestions, or am I need of a reality check here. Would like to create a good tank from these 2 or repair the one with the tiny holes on the top. Can't this tank be lined, if it has pinholes, or is this not advisable...............Thanx Fred

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Posted
jeepgastank.jpg.......The Jeep fuel tank 78 to 86 is similar to my 49 tank. There are a few of these tanks on ebay new for $50 to $100.... The 87 to 90 Jeep tank looks to be a closer fit, but takes a larger sending unit I believe.....I do not have a picture of the 77 and older tank, but I believe these to be a better fit........
Posted

The 49 tanks are definately not as wide as the 46 to 48 tank, any idea if any Jeep tanks will fit the 46 to 48. I know the 41 to 48 Furd tanks will fit.........Fred

Posted

What I would do- and in fact did is fiberglass the top - of the best tank AFTER I had cleaned it and spread a coat of JB weld on the top sealing all the pinholes. I took a ice pick and went around tank locating weak spots . Any holes I filled in with JB weld and on some weak place s smeared a coating. I let it dry over night then applied fiberglass matting and the liquid. Let it harden and installed not problems .

I would not do Fiberglas extensively over the bottom but on top I believe the combo of JB and Fiberglas is an excellent patch

Lou

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Posted

Like this idea, even thought of it myself, but wasn't sure it would work. Would I clean the tank, inside and out first. I figure I could use the JB Weld over the enitre area first, then fibreglass, with the cloth next. Would I use tank liner after this or just get it boiled out............Fred

Posted

I never use liner at all I tried it once had bad result and no more- but others have had good results Ijust see no need for it- just keep your tank full or near ful for storage and drain every 20 years or so!!i

Posted
Lou, you're probably fine with the fiberglass on top of the tank. Don't know if you used polyester or epoxy, but here is a collection of studies on fiberglass and gas. Looks like the new 10% ethanol blend doesn't play nice.

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/fueltest.asp

Thanks for the info I believe u are right. I covered the area first with JB weld in a paste smeared on. Then fiberglassed for strength and to protect the JB weld from fiction and exposure on top only. I did it for another reason but apparently did it right for the degradation problem. I personally thought if I used it on bottom I would have constant gas on maybe a pinhole I missed and it would - the gas would =get in and start separation action.

I just was fortunate I did not use it as patch on bottom.

Thanks again

Lou

Posted

Okay, but what is the best way to clean it up inside, as it is full of rust etc. i was thinking of cleaning the outside with the wire brush attachment on the drill or angle grinder. Should I place drywall screws inside and do the swish around, should I blow air into the screen from the outside fitting. I am willing to try this repair, I personally think it would work. I don't have the coin in the budget right now for a brand new tank....Thanx Fred

Posted

My local radiator repair shop puts them in their vat overnight and next morning it is clean charges me 10 bucks. Before u do that clean it out as bes u can then fill it with water and see how it flows out of fuel line. If slow route it out - I used old piece of speedo cable in drill and kept at it and it cleared it then have it boiled out and test again

Lou

Posted

After cleaning, I'd spray on some phosphoric acid to convert the leftover rust as best I could. Jasco sells some stuff at Lowes that works really well. In the paint department next to the naval jelly.

Posted

Phoned the oldest rad shop in Winnipeg, it's been in business 75 years, owner says, no point boiling it out, the acid bath he says he only will do if he is re-lining the tank.What do you get done Lou at the rad shop, I would think you ae having it boiled out with a mild detergent of sorts, or is it a mild acid bath.............Fred

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