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1935 Dodge Steering Arms


Smokeywolf

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Smokey, I assume you want the shorter steering arms to accommodate the fact that the rack & pinion has a shorter "throw" than the original steering box and using the shorter arms will give you back a more normal or tighter turning circle.........I had the same problem when I adapted a narrowed 9" Austin 1800 rack under my 1940 Oz Dodge back in the 1970's........at the time I ended up having the original arms reforged by an automotive blacksmith and shortened 1" which gave me a nice turning circle........they have lasted 40 odd yrs ,............HOWEVER I have seen on this forum a few yrs ago where a guy used the Cavailer rack and had the same problem, he overcame this by mounting the complete steering arm "forward", ie, the adaptor plate for the disc brake caliper was modified at the lower edge and the steering arm moved forward, the rear bolt hole was bolted to the forward boss on the stub axle and a new boss or mount made on the caliper bracket.......this effectively moved or "shortened" the steering arm length from the kingpin centreline to the tierod centre, in doing so the steering arm is closer to the arc drawn from the kingpin centreline and so moves further when the rack moves the tierod/steering arm...........now does this make sense?.................lol...........I found this pic I saved that shows what I am waffling on about......lol..............Andyd.      

post-612-0-89686100-1471656406_thumb.jpg

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  • 10 months later...

Yep, that's what he ended up with.......the one bolt on the top and three bolts in line horizontally on the bottom which is a very neat way to get the steering correct...........this pic I've attached shows the steering arm on MY 1940 Dodge mounted to the two lower bolts on the stub axle which meant that I had to have the arms shortened as I described in the above post..........I had not thought of mounting the arm "forward", a clever way to overcome this problem.............Andy Douglas

IMG_1565.JPG

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