Rubber bits

[JSabah]

Things on my to do list include rebuilding the suspension and brakes. I was thinking of taking the suspenation parts apart and having them powder coated. While they are being done, I would like to get the bushings and bearings needed ordered. Is there a preferred supplier or kit available?

Also, I noticed on e bay that there are brake rebuild kits that look to include all the wheel cylinders etc. Do I need new cylinders, or can I hone out the old and replace the seals? Same question for the master cylinder... Who supplies those parts ?

Thanks,

Josh

[Bingster]

I'd be very careful of the brake cylinders you buy as per all the feedback on this site.  Don't you fellas think that re-sleeving from a place like White Post is the way to go?

[dpollo]

Any good auto supply should be able to help with the brake cylinders  You don't say what year your car is but if it is 46 to 55

 

front cylinders are Raybestos WC 10580 10581 10582 and 10583   rears  10588    front   hoses  BH 10595

 

Master cylinder kit  MK 143  or  maybe it is 134 you will have to check on that  46 t0 54,

 

Of course your cylinders may be in good shape,  check first  and also make note of the position of the shoe anchors on the front before removing cylinders. These are eccentric and are a major adjustment if disturbed.

[mopar_earl]

I myself wouldn't waste time with kits. I bought new cylinders with lifetime warranty from the auto parts. Same with master cylinders. If the bores are bad or you hone them too much, kits won't fix them. Not sure why people use kits and/or pay to get bores sleeved. Brand new cylinders and masters can be had from auto parts stores with warranties. Just my opinion. I also recommend dual circuit master cylinders for safety.

Earl

[dpollo]

Just another comment or two.

 

I agree with Earl, above but a kit will give good service  IF the bores are good.  most often nowadays they are out of spec. due to pitting or too much honing.

 

Your suspension pivots  upper and lower  inners are assembled in a jig with a certain amount of preload.  If they are not worn out,

do not disassemble them.  The outer pins can be removed without trouble but leave the eccentric camber bushing in place.

If you remove it or alter its position, you will need to find an alignment shop that still has the adjustment tool (special wrench) and

an old time employee who knows how to use it.