Lesson Learned!!!!

[gearhead49]

Besides the Plymouth I'm playing with I'm also a Studebaker person. In the Stude circle there is a term, CASO (cheap **s Studebaker owner) they are known for jerry rigging, buying inferior parts and sometimes un-safe practices. Well I guess I'm a CAPO. I have been looking for a master cylinder and found a part number Cardone 13-33241 and Googled it found M/C's between 55 and 60+ dollars. Ordered one from Parts Geek. After days of wondering it's status I get a email Not Available. So then I did the same Google and stumbled on Autoplicity which claimed real time inventory with 27 in stock. Well a week later NOT AVAILABLE. I finally bit the bullet and bought from a reputable supplier.

Please forgive me for being a CAPO, Lesson Learned. Support our suppliers as much as possible!!!!

[_shel_ny]

Nothing wrong with searching around to find the lowest price on an identical item. That isn't being cheap.

 

 

Rock Auto has 32 in stock.

 

Advance Auto has them.  ($40-$50 off coupon codes available most of the time)

Edited October 16, 2014 by shel_ny

[Bobandy]

Well, I must admit I've made a few mistakes along the way with my Dodge Coronet.  After pulling the sick Gyromatic and noticing a lot of oil coming from the engine, I assumed I was getting oil from both the engine and a leaking fluid drive coupling.  I drained the coupling and then dropped it to make room for replacing the rear main oil seal.  Measured the fluid carefully and it contained exactly 6 quarts (thought it should be closer to 8 quarts).  Oil pan gasket was bad too..  Anyway I started looking around for a FD coupling.   I found a place out west that would ship me a rebuilt unit and a week later I had it.  What I got was a piece of junk.  I found the rear bushing was worn into an oval shape (not round).  They failed to replace either the front or rear bushing.  I was more than a little upset.  After several phone discussions (they never admitted to sending me junk), they finally refunded my cost (but not the shipping either way).   So, I ate the shipping.....  Stay with suppliers that others have found to be solid.  

After getting the engine oil issues resolved (rear main seal, value covers and oil pan gasket) I decided that maybe the oil on the FD coupling was from the engine only.  So, I re-installed it and filled it.  It took maybe a cup more that the six quarts I drained from it.  So, after all the issues and cost, I really don't think the FD Coupling was leaking.   I'll know more about that after I get a tranny back into it and get it on the road a bit.  I'm still working the tranny issue.  One thing I've learned recently is don't be is a rush to get something done.  It takes time to locate parts and get them delivered.  It's not like you can go to the local NAPA store and find everything you need.  And if your doing something you've never done before, take your time to avoid mistakes.  Sounds like I need to take that to heart.  Bob
  

[Dodgeb4ya]

You can tell if the FD coupling is leaking by pulling the lower dust cover and looking at the area between the coupling and the clutch driven plate. You will see wet fluid there if leaking.

I have worked on endless numbers of these couplings and M5/M6 transmissions.

Parts now are very hard to find to service them right or even at all.

I tell people to leave the couplings alone unless they are noisy or leaking-it isn't just replacing the floating ring or bellows to seal them up..

Bob

[Don Jordan]

I learned two lessons working on my 69 Triumph: The less you pay the more it costs. And a sign on the mechanic's wall: fix it yourself - we make more money that way.

I guess as you get older you just accrue a lot of experience (the hard way)