greg g Posted August 13, 2014 Report Posted August 13, 2014 The is a member in Schoharie. Maybe he will chime in. Been thoughCoby a few times in my 46. Sister in law lives in the Hudson valley and we pick up rt. 145 down to Catskill when we travel that way. Quote
DodgeDan Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Posted August 14, 2014 (edited) Okay, here's an update and where I'm at. I took the advice of plyroadking, and swapped out the carb today with a newly rebuilt one. The original Stromberg that came off is a BXV-3, this one is BXVD-3, looks like the only difference is what appears to be an accelerator pump coming up out of the top of the float bowl cover. Other than that they are identical. I did some digging and it looks like the 1939 had the BXV and the 1940 had the BXVD, so hopefully it doesn't make a difference. Regardless, I have this new BXVD-3 being changed out for a freshly rebuilt BXV-3 just for the sake of keeping originality and correctness. Anyways, so I swapped out the carb and she's running better. The popping that I have thought was a sticking valve seems to have stopped. But, it's still running rough and choppy though, but I know the carb needs to be adjusted. I am not too knowledgeable on adjusting the carb mix, so I am winging it here. I still can't get that damn plug out so that I hook up a vacuum gauge, there's enough there that I can probably get on it with a pair of vice grips but I don't want to chew it up. Anyone know what a good baseline adjustment is for the idle mix? How many turns? Even when I get the other carb, I still will need to do the adjustments. Dan Edited August 14, 2014 by DodgeDan Quote
Don Coatney Posted August 14, 2014 Report Posted August 14, 2014 One to one and a quarter turns is a baseline starting point on the idle mixture adjustment. 1 Quote
greg g Posted August 14, 2014 Report Posted August 14, 2014 check for vacuum leaks between the intake manifold and the block. air leaks there will lean the mixture and result in rough/erratic idle. Also between the carb and manifold. Quote
DodgeDan Posted August 15, 2014 Author Report Posted August 15, 2014 check for vacuum leaks between the intake manifold and the block. air leaks there will lean the mixture and result in rough/erratic idle. Also between the carb and manifold. Just checked the nuts Greg, and I got a quarter turn out of most of them. Gonna fire it up again tomorrow and tinker some more. Dan Quote
james49ply Posted August 15, 2014 Report Posted August 15, 2014 # 3 cylinder is saying something! it may only be down 10lbs, but with low compression it is not 100% I would be looking at the valve gap, check the lift of the valves for a possible worn camshaft, check the side to side play for worn guides. My thoughts are you have valve leakage witch would require a valve grind. Just my 2 pennies. Quote
Don Coatney Posted August 15, 2014 Report Posted August 15, 2014 # 3 cylinder is saying something! it may only be down 10lbs, but with low compression it is not 100% I would be looking at the valve gap, check the lift of the valves for a possible worn camshaft, check the side to side play for worn guides. My thoughts are you have valve leakage witch would require a valve grind. Just my 2 pennies. I don't think valves are an issue. Go to posting #5 in this thread and read the last 2 paragraphs in the center column of the instruction sheet I posted. A 10 pound variation is acceptable. Quote
janan5243 Posted September 5, 2014 Report Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) I'm the member in Schoharie. I live on route 7 at the Schenectady/Schoharie line. I really don't have a definite answer. I agree with other members on where to start. 1. Do test with engine running to isolate cylinder/cylinders causing problem. 2. Compression test those cylinders. Shop manual describes test procedure, especially how to tell if it's rings or valves. If it's valves, then remove side covers to check springs. 3. check intake & exhaust gaskets. With engine running, shoot oil where connected to engine, around carb base, etc. I don't know if a vacuum leak would cause your problem. If problem is so bad you can't drive car, it's probably more than one cylinder. Wish I could be more helpful. As far as vacuum port, if electric wipers were an option, there should be someplace on intake to put a port. I have a hand impact tool. If you'd like to borrow it, just PM me & I'll bring it to my store. I own the hardware store in the village of Schoharie & I'm there 6 days a week. good luck. Another thought; possibly it's a bad distributer cap. Edited September 5, 2014 by janan5243 Quote
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