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Posted

When using some kerosene to clean some oily dirt from my trunk, the kerosene interacted with and removed a coating that was on a portion of the trunk floor.  That led me to use Rustoleum bare metal primer in that area.  Where the primer overlaps with this coating, the coating bleeds through and turns the white primer brownish.  See attached picture.  I'm concerned that that this same sort of thing will occur when I apply the top coat of Rustoleum enamel.  Should I put a different type of product between the original coating that reacts with kerosene/Rustoleum primer and my final enamel topcoat?

post-3715-0-29972900-1399266885_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Rustoleum will dry and set up good on original undercoating inside and out of the car applications as used back them...Rustoleum will however react with modern day seam sealer.  IF coating over modern seam sealer flash coat with a good lacquer based primer sealer first, the Rustoleum does not like to dry when applied directly to 3M seam sealer.....RMP may react a bit to coating that has been solvent cleaned and not totally left exposed to circulating air long enough to properly evap.

 

The tar based coating you have cleaned with kerosene will naturally react as the solvent will soften the mixture..if you are taking off old undercoating with heat and razor blade for metal repairs, final wipe of panel to get it clean I do use kerosene as the solvent.  

 

To replicate the original trunk finish and floor pans inside the car I use Henry brand (buy at Lowes) of roofing patch....twin light coats are better and set up quicker than one heavy coat will..the '54 had a sliver finish to the coating and that was matched fairly well by then coating the roof patch with cool seal (roof silver paint)  The Henry product is slightly pungent when applied but does lose this odor as it dries...it is the closest thing I know of today that comes close to replicating the interior coating in the trunk and floor pan seams if this is important to you and your cars appearance to others.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks, I'll try using a lacquer based primer sealer on that coating before final painting.  I don't know if it's original or not.  It's only in the very lowest part of the trunk.  The rest is painted black.  I'm not doing any metal repair right now.  I had the trunk lid off to replace the springs and thought it would be a good time to clean and repaint.  It's amazing how much dirt was in there.  Thanks for the tip on the Henry's.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Do you think it is OK to paint the floor with Duplicolor primer sealer and put the carpet on top of that, without topcoating the primer?  I know that some primers absorb water, but I think the primer/sealer varieties do not.  I can't find the answer on the can or at the Duplicolor website.  Thx.

Posted (edited)

 

I just talked to the auto paint store that sells the product. They said the primer/sealer is a watertight sealer and top coating is unnecessary. They described it as containing a type of resin that seals out moisture and it being a sort of primer/paint combo. It is not the same thing as base primer/filler. Perhaps I will paint, just to be 105 percent sure, but it appears unnecessary.

 

Edited by jcmiller
To provide info that will hopefully be helpful to others.
Posted

Paint it is.

Me: Some primers absorb water and must be top coated. Is that true for your primer sealer, or can I use it as a topcoat? I painted a car floor with it and want to put the rug right on top, without topcoating, unless the primer will absorb water. 

Duplicolor: The Primer Sealer will prevent it from absorbing water, so you can top coat it. It is not designed to be used as a stand alone product. 

Me: Is that because of UV or moisture or something else? The particular application is a car floor, so it wouldn’t be exposed to UV.

Duplicolor: It is designed to be top coated. It will not hold up well as a top coat.

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