D35 Torpedo Posted April 28, 2023 Report Share Posted April 28, 2023 4 hours ago, Eneto-55 said: I was also thinking about the label issue. It would have to be very small writing, but I had checked, and there IS actually clear heat shrink tube available. Slide labels inside heat shrink at both ends and heat it. (I've never used clear heat shrink - always just black. So I don't know if it would yellow over time, that you couldn't read the label any more.) I was also thinking that if I follow the color codes in the schematic, I might cut some really narrow pieces of black or white heat shrink, and use those to label each end with the correct number of 'strikes', to indicate the gauge. Then slide some clear heat shrink over that. That's actually what got me to go check if there was such a thing as the clear. All good ideas. Worse case if it yellows, cut it off and the label will be preserved. The fine tip marker and white tape idea is what I did when I was wiring controls. It was fast enough, you could drag it through hundreds of feet of cable tray, and it was still readable at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcl700 Posted May 5, 2023 Report Share Posted May 5, 2023 (edited) On 4/27/2023 at 9:29 AM, D35 Torpedo said: I used red, yellow, green, brown, black, white. I only had to purchase the white. It worked out pretty good. Enough colours so it isn't to hectic. All the big runs are predominately red or yellow. I had a bunch of 12G yellow. I used it for the main run back to the plate and tail lights, as well as the one for each low beam. It all comes together under the dash. I didn't label anything, but you should. White electrical tape and a fine tip marker works good. Write your label six time. Then wrap the tape in one spot. If the label gets wiped out you can simply peel back the tape to reveal more label. Also helps to make a list or legend on you wiring diagram, I also didn't do that. I'm considering re-wiring my 48'. I'm trying to wrap my head around what is needed and how to best approach this project. I'm torn between swapping to 12v or staying 6v. My thought process is to rewire the car for 6v with appropriate wire and it If decide to go 12v the wires should support it. My question is, do I install a modern fuse pannel under the dash regardless of the voltage? I've looked at the wiring diagram for my car and don't see a common fuse location or pannel. If this approach is used where does the fuse pannel get installed in the harness? If not, are there item that I should run inline fuses or auto reset brakers to protect? Any and all advise/ help is welcomed. Edited May 5, 2023 by rcl700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted May 5, 2023 Report Share Posted May 5, 2023 My tendency would be to put the fuse box under the dash, on the left side. However, with the condition of my vision (I wear tri-focals, and can see basically nothing but 'smoke' w/o them), if a discrete but easily accessible location could be identified under the hood, I would strongly consider it. (But I think it would also involve more wires going through the firewall.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted May 5, 2023 Report Share Posted May 5, 2023 This might help. Look to the lower middle part of the drawing. Joe Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted May 6, 2023 Report Share Posted May 6, 2023 7 hours ago, rcl700 said: I'm considering re-wiring my 48'. I'm trying to wrap my head around what is needed and how to best approach this project. I'm torn between swapping to 12v or staying 6v. My thought process is to rewire the car for 6v with appropriate wire and it If decide to go 12v the wires should support it. My question is, do I install a modern fuse pannel under the dash regardless of the voltage? I've looked at the wiring diagram for my car and don't see a common fuse location or pannel. If this approach is used where does the fuse pannel get installed in the harness? If not, are there item that I should run inline fuses or auto reset brakers to protect? Any and all advise/ help is welcomed. I put my fuse panel under dash, above the drivers side kick panel. Anywhere near the gauge cluster is good. Put the power runs that come off the ammeter through a fuse, then to the loads. The headlights are the only things that go through a breaker. Fuse the dome light, tail lights, park lights, lighter and anything else you want. The horn and radio should have there own fuses already. I added power wipers, so it is nice to have a few extra slots. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted May 6, 2023 Report Share Posted May 6, 2023 I just thought that if I didn't have a radio, I would consider putting it in the place of the speaker. Easy to get to, easy to see what I was doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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