IanT_Qld Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Looking for confirmation - to remove the radiator you have to remove the bonnet first, and lift the radiator out the top. (sorry, bonnet = hood, damn the English) or can it come out the bottom easier? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Yep, to remove the radiator, the hood comes off first. I also removed the sheet metal piece in the front of the radiator. It isn't necessary to remove the support rods, (older models) or the headlamp wiring, (just unfasten the block). Then remove the hoses and pull it straight up. If you are removing the entire front clip, the radiator can stay in its bracket but it really adds weight to a already heavy object. Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT_Qld Posted May 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 I also removed the sheet metal piece in the front of the radiator. Thanks, the truck is an 100 km (62 miles) away so I wanted to have a better idea how long the job might be. the sheet metal piece you refer to, is that the whole nose cone? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 Thanks, the truck is an 100 km (62 miles) away so I wanted to have a better idea how long the job might be. the sheet metal piece you refer to, is that the whole nose cone?Thanks The attached photo shows a picture of it, removed for painting ...... Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted May 25, 2007 Report Share Posted May 25, 2007 This picture shows the engine comes out and goes in without bonnet removal. So the radiator must come out without bonnet removal on a P-15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted May 26, 2007 Report Share Posted May 26, 2007 This picture shows the engine comes out and goes in without bonnet removal. So the radiator must come out without bonnet removal on a P-15. Don, The B series pickups have the butterflly hoods not the alligator style of hood as used on the cars. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT_Qld Posted May 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2007 Yep, that clears up which "sheet metal" needs removal. Should be easy - Thanks Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norrism1 Posted May 26, 2007 Report Share Posted May 26, 2007 Ian, Do you still use the Whitworth (? sp) wrenches or is everything metric now? I remember my 1965 MG Midgit was all Whitworth sizes! (Real pain in the A** to remove with SAE or Metric!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5711 Posted May 26, 2007 Report Share Posted May 26, 2007 This picture shows the engine comes out and goes in without bonnet removal. So the radiator must come out without bonnet removal on a P-15. As mentioned, unfortunately it's not the same hood , BUT I still like the picture:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT_Qld Posted May 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 I'm not up to speed with the difference between witworth and SAE, I have found SAE seems the best. So witworth is british? and SAE is "what"? I have an assortment of metric and SAE spanners, (alot of old -pre/post 1969 stuff was still SAE in Australia, and my impression is only big machinery is Witworth?). While on this topic what are the dodge bolts as I did consider buying a good set of imperial ring spanners having seen how many bolts are on these trucks. Would the thread be UNC and/or UNF thread, as one of my 1/2inch bolts is cross threaded? (or some other thread pattern?) having re-read your post I gather dodge (USA) uses SAE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony WestOZ Posted May 28, 2007 Report Share Posted May 28, 2007 Ian your truck will be imperial (SAE) sizes. Most of the bolt threads will be UNC but there are a few UNF`s used. From memory gearbox, engine and steering box bolts that are used to bolt to the chassis are UNF. UNF take a higher loading than UNC and suffer less from vibration. Don`t spend a lot of money on tools if you not using all the time (for work) most of the Chines made stuff is good enough. Get a couple of cans of what ever penatrene product you can buy and spray all the nuts and bolts you can find ever time you are up at your truck. After a couple of weeks you will find most will come undone. The smaller panel bolts are the worst. Tony WestOZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT_Qld Posted May 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 Thanks, its good to know things are standard and simple replacement bolts should be easy enough to come buy. I certainly have sprayed "possum piss" on every nut and bolt, surface rust and everywhere. I will soon have to get the degreaser out to remove the excess spray oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis_MN Posted May 29, 2007 Report Share Posted May 29, 2007 Don, The B series pickups have the butterflly hoods not the alligator style of hood as used on the cars. Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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