1941coupe Posted June 17, 2012 Report Posted June 17, 2012 I saw some fluid on top of my cylinder head a while ago by #5 cyl., it was oil-like, but not immediately of great concern. After doing a cooling system flush and subsequent short trips, the strong green color of the fresh coolant began to make the crack more and more obvious. It started at a likely place, of which I'm sure is quite common, one of the head bolt holes. Can anyone recommend a reputable local shop here in So.Cal. that specializes in head repair? I will have to have it magnafluxed, welded, and have a few thousands milled from the bottom to true it up. Hopefully it's not too far gone. Thanks. Quote
1941coupe Posted June 19, 2012 Author Report Posted June 19, 2012 It's a 41 Plymouth coupe and I will have to check the length as well as the engine number on the block today. Carlos Quote
1941coupe Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Posted June 28, 2012 It's the 23" head, the original p11 motor it seems but I have yet to verify a match with the frame. The n.o.s. 218 head with the bump should arrive in a few days. Quote
54Illinois Posted June 28, 2012 Report Posted June 28, 2012 Sounds good! Post some pics when you can! Quote
1941coupe Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Posted June 28, 2012 Will do, it will be a while though.. Quote
greg g Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) With our no pressure systems, that head may be slavagable with some work and some JB weld or marine epoxy. Drill a small hole in the end of the crack, but not al the way into the water jacket. with a dremil or other tool, grind a V shaped groove the length of the crack leaving the grove a bit rough. Then mix up the epoxy and work it into the groove and the hole, but clean it with some solvent and make sure it dry. A weeping crack like that should respond pretty well to the above treatment since you are only dealing with a little expansion and contraction and heat and not a lot of pressure from cylinder compression of a pressurized cooling system. If and when you run the head again, some Alumna seal radiator sealer should also help from the inside. As a matter of fact I would try that before I actually swapped the head. If it works mores the better, if it fails you have your spare. And speaking of the new head, I would be spending the 40 bucks or so to mill it a bit and bump up your compression ratio. Edited June 29, 2012 by greg g Quote
1941coupe Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) My new head arrived yesterday!! Woo hoo!! Thanks for the tips and suggestions. I had planned on milling some off the new head from the get go. The old head will be kept as a repairable spare. Yes, it can be dealt with with the J.B. weld and stop drilling, but I would rather go with a new one and not have any future concerns with leaking coolant. The paint is gone in the area of the leak and I would not want to paint it in the car anyway or get iron chips in the cooling system etc. I want to be able to dive this car anywhere or even cross country if need be. Yes, I love our no pressure systems, and it's very true what you say about the expansion and contraction. I am examining the new head and can finally see what lurks beneath. No wonder our engines run so cool! Edited June 30, 2012 by 1941coupe Quote
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