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Posted

Guys - First let me say - I am an armature welder and body man at best- but the whole Idea here is the learning process right?

Both cab corners were shot and I cut out and patched in steel (22 gauge I think) it came out ok and after some seam sealer it'l be fine. Besides with the clip on nobody will see it right!?

Now for the structure, the floor of my truck has surface rust everywhere but some rot through at the front mounts, especially on the drivers side. Suggestions for repair. I don't really have a lift to pull the whole cab off but can be creative if need be (trees and chainfall). got the nut off the cab mount bolt but can't budge the bolt. Both washer and bolt appear to be rusted (welded?) to the cab. PB blaster, heat, air hammer and my impact wrench - no go. Seems I should get them out tilt the cab back and reinforce somehow. Thoughts, what to use or how?

This will be a rough driver not a show truck so welding inside the cab or under doesn't bother me. All suggestions welcome.

Thanks!

Posted

actually, if you take the seat out and such, it's only about a 4 guy job to lift the cab off. W/o the doors 2 can lift it easily.

Posted

Thanks.

Anyone have experience with how or where to weld to fix the cab mounts? My front two are weak. Pictures and suggestions welcome.

Posted

I did my right front this past fall. I got a piece of heavy sheet metal from a telephone equipment cover. I cut it to the size that I needed which was larger than the rusted mount (I think about 6" x 7". I made a brake and put two 1/4" bends at the side edges. I coated the entire face of my patch with seam sealer, and then worked it into place and drilled the hole for the mount bolt. I then took a piece of 3/4" angle iron, and fabricated a stiffener to replace the missing portion of the front to rear cab bracing on the passenger side. Mike

Posted

Anyone else patch in material for cab mounts? Weld or otherwise? Pictures, suggestions...

Seems the rot through on the driverside has allowed the cab to sag...figure I'll never get the doors working right if the cab is floating.

Posted

I'm not sure how close a 47 is, but here are pictures of fixing mine. There were 3 layers of cab metal that overlapped where the cab mount bolt goes through. I cut back on each layer until I had good metal, then pieced in the replacement a layer at a time.

If you look close you can see the cab mount hole in the metal.

http://www.austinsailor.net/47_dodge/page8.html

Posted

Great job! Thanks for sharing.

That does give me some ideas. The 49 looks like it has a u channeled piece that runs front to back under the floor and the layers of metal floor front and aft come together over the bolt hole. I'm trying to get the cab off so I can see the underside.

Posted

Thanks that's a great idea. All the glass is in my cab but I'm thinking I may use a similar jig, chainfall and tree...?

Or I may just cut out the "cheesy" parts of the floor and see if I can make it right from the top.

J

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