carmen142 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 I will soon be having my engine rebuilt for my 41 P12. No I am not going to be doing it myself. I know you guys make it look eazy, but I am not going down that road. My question is I am going to repalce my radiator, what is the perfect drop in replalment for what is in there now. It is a stock radiator. The model you guys use would be very helpful, rather than just telling me the name of the company that sells them. Thanks Carmen Quote
aero3113 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 I was able to get a new aluminum radiator from this ebay seller for my 50 Plymouth. Do a search of his stock and he may have one. Or maybe one can be modified to fit. http://www.ebay.com/sch/koolradiatorscoolingsystems/m.html?hash=item2566869bbf&item=160633887679&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&_trksid=p4340.l2562 Quote
carmen142 Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Posted February 7, 2012 They are the one's I have been looking at. Can someone explain what the difference is between a 2 -3 and 4 row radiator is? I assume that the more rows the better the cooling is for your engine - right? At those pricies it would be better to get a NEW radiator than to have your old one rebuilt. Once you paint it no one will ever know. Thanks Carmen Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 You are right about the 2-3-4 row radiator. The more rows there are, the more heat exchanging capacity it has. As long as you are going for new, go for aluminum, it passes heat faster than copper. Like you say, paint it no one will know. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) Here is mine before and painted up Edited February 7, 2012 by aero3113 Quote
littlemo Posted February 7, 2012 Report Posted February 7, 2012 Carmen; I don't know how close you are to Cape Girardeau ( South of St Louis) Missouri, but I have one I took out of a 48 P-15 that I don't think I'll be able to use with the newer LA 318 engine. If your close enough, and you want it , it's yours for just making a small donation to this forum. Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
carmen142 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Posted February 8, 2012 Thanks Littlemo but if I am going through all the trouble of a rebuilt engine I am going to get a new radiator. I hail from northeast Pa. I say I am about 1500 miles away. Carmen Quote
carmen142 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Posted February 8, 2012 Hello aero 3113 That looks pretty cool. You don't have to worry about your radiator overheating any more do you?. If it does you have other issues. Carmen Quote
Frank Elder Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Didn't someone on here use their top and bottam tanks and have a modern core installed to replace the honeycomb? Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 I just picked up the same one as Areo..off e-bay as well. The part number was CC52PLY. I'm going to be using this one in my 48 Desoto...it's a 3 core as well. Not an exact fit due to the later year, but is going to work better for my future plans for the car. They have ones for the 46-48 Plymouth as well. Which should be closer to what you need. Part number CC4749. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Hello aero 3113That looks pretty cool. You don't have to worry about your radiator overheating any more do you?. If it does you have other issues. Carmen Mine is a 2 row and cools just fine Quote
garbagestate 44 Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Here's mine, a 2 row core.works fine. I went with a 7 psi cap and have temporarily left the heater core out of the loop till I can get it recored. Quote
DLK Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 I will soon be having my engine rebuilt for my 41 P12. No I am not going to be doing it myself. I know you guys make it look eazy, but I am not going down that road. My question is I am going to repalce my radiator, what is the perfect drop in replalment for what is in there now. It is a stock radiator. The model you guys use would be very helpful, rather than just telling me the name of the company that sells them. Thanks Carmen I'm with you I don't have the tools or the expertise. So how did you pick the rebuilder? I assume I am looking at around $2,500 with parts and labor to have my 230 engine rebuilt. Does that sound about right? Quote
james curl Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 I hope that you can get it done for that price. I had all of the machine work done on my 218, line bore the mains turn the crank, weld then machine the thrust surface on the crank, bored, new valve guides installed, new stainless steel valves, all mating surfaces surfaced for straightness, head milled .100, rods re-manufactured, piston pin bushings installed and reamed to size cost me $790.00. All new bearings, gaskets, pistons and rings, cam reground and harmonic balancer rebuilt, new oil pump, water pump, fuel pump and misc bolts and parts another $900.00 with me doing the assembly. Then a rebuilt 12 volt generator and rebuilt starter, clutch and pressure plate rebuilt and flywheel surfaced, new engine mounts for close to another $400.00. That was in 2007 and most things have gone up since then. Quote
chopt50wgn Posted February 8, 2012 Report Posted February 8, 2012 Carmen............copper/brass radiators have tube widths on average 3/8" wide. Those radiators can come in 2,3,or even 4 rows. Most all aluminum radiators start at 2 rows of 1" tube and go up from there.You can get 2 rows of 1.25" and 1.50" as well. One row of an aluminum rad can flow more than 2 rows of a 3/8" copper/brass. Quote
montego8 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Posted February 9, 2012 I just got one on eBay for $164 made by champion and it fit in the rad-support but I had to drill two holes to match the original mounting holes. But .other than that, it work's great ! 50 Dodge original flat 6. Quote
aero3113 Posted February 9, 2012 Report Posted February 9, 2012 I had to drill 2 new holes also. Quote
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