40P10touring sedan Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 That's as top as I can get....that tan colored ridge you see is the floorboard just in front of the seat. - I can't provide you with a pic of the B/U switch cause she doesn't have one{40 - it wasn't an option}...you guys with your newer cars got that. -The speedo cable is on the other side of the trans alittle more forawrd of that E brake bolt. - The E brake cable is what is shown 4" down from the E brake bolt...the odd thicker cable shown is the pos ground wire for the battery and that can be moved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40P10touring sedan Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 Cool, thanks. What I was thinking about when I was checking where that shifter would sit was someone here mentioned that "this" shifter has no positive stops so over shifting could be an issue...looking at my oem set up I see no stops here either nor in the column....could we say for the sake of argument- which I'm NOT trying to start here- is that priciple would apply to the oem shifter too{overshifting}? Unless someone swiped it I don't think theres so much of an issue since Ma Mopar didn't install one...however, my car is now known to have 2 things missing from her{cowl vent drain plate & trunk light}...maybe there's 3 for me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cool-View Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 That's as top as I can get....that tan colored ridge you see is the floorboard just in front of the seat.- I can't provide you with a pic of the B/U switch cause she doesn't have one{40 - it wasn't an option}...you guys with your newer cars got that. -The speedo cable is on the other side of the trans alittle more forawrd of that E brake bolt. - The E brake cable is what is shown 4" down from the E brake bolt...the odd thicker cable shown is the pos ground wire for the battery and that can be moved. I think the tan colored ridge is towards the back of the opening. I actually would like to see a picture more to the front of the opening to see how far the brake cable is from the transmission where the shifter will mount. I didn't even think about no backup switch or that the speed-o cable would be on the passengers side on an older car. Does anyone Know if the basic dimensions of the transmissions are the same through the years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40P10touring sedan Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 The center of the shift lever would be 1 1/2" forward and 1 1/2" to the drivers side from the front E-brake mounting boss. Hmmm, in "my" car, that would nearly put the shifter inline with the gas pedal - that flat stock you have for the actual hand shift rod would have to be bent over to the pass side about 3-4" {Z bend} to get it more centered and/or away from the drivers leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40P10touring sedan Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 I took a few more pictures for everyone to look at. As to the questions about the O-drive and hand brake. I don't see any way to make it work with the R-10. To much stuff in the way. Not sure about the hand brake. The car I built it for has rear axle parking brakes. Does anyone have pictures of a hand brake bolted to the trans? Then maybe I can tell if it would work with the hand brake. On pic 2 I see an output of some kind by the yellow paint marking on the top front of the tailshaft housing...what's that? Is that your speedo or OD output? Reason I ask is I wonder if the whole rig could be pushed in alittle more towards the tailshaft housing to get the shifter more centered and still work for multiple vehicles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cool-View Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Hmmm, in "my" car, that would nearly put the shifter inline with the gas pedal - that flat stock you have for the actual hand shift rod would have to be bent over to the pass side about 3-4" {Z bend} to get it more centered and/or away from the drivers leg. I think that could be done and would be a good improvement. The one I built is going in a hotrod and we plan to cut the flat bar off down low and mount an old shifter lever to it. Most shifter levers have a flat with bolt holes to mount them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cool-View Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 On pic 2 I see an output of some kind by the yellow paint marking on the top front of the tailshaft housing...what's that? Is that your speedo or OD output?Reason I ask is I wonder if the whole rig could be pushed in alittle more towards the tailshaft housing to get the shifter more centered and still work for multiple vehicles. Yes that is the speed-o cable connector. Pic 3 shows the end of it and the backup switch. As for moving the "whole rig" back, not sure. It looks like on 40P10touring sedan's overhead pictures that may put the shifter to far back. It may be easier to use a shifter lever with the required bends to get to where you want. Most early cars did this on factory floor shifts that were farther forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dndrodshop Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 That is nice looking, but I really don't see how it would work. Looks like a standard shifter that would move the arms separately:confused: Can you show other pictures that show it better? It's buried in Winter storage right now but I'll see if I can get to it to take some additional photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cool-View Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Well, I have been working out some details for the best way to make some of the parts on these shifters. I should have some pricing by the first of next week. Thanks for being patient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cool-View Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Thanks for being so patient. I finally got prices to make all of the parts and supply the hardware to make a complete kit. This was not as easy as I thought it would be. I couldn't even get a ballpark number without making good drawings and specifying tolerances and such. The parts would be laser cut, fixture press bent CNC machined and jig welded. These would be top quality units which is the only way I would make them. This does come at a price though. The price for a complete kit would be $625.00 plus shipping. This would include all hardware. I would need to make at least 10 of these to make this worth doing. I know this is a lot for some people but if there is enough interest I will make them. I will also check with the guys over at the HAMB to see how much interest is over there. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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