Cool-View

Thanks for being so patient. I finally got prices to make all of the parts and supply the hardware to make a complete kit. This was not as easy as I thought it would be. I couldn't even get a ballpark number without making good drawings and specifying tolerances and such. The parts would be laser cut, fixture press bent CNC machined and jig welded. These would be top quality units which is the only way I would make them. This does come at a price though. The price for a complete kit would be $625.00 plus shipping. This would include all hardware. I would need to make at least 10 of these to make this worth doing. I know this is a lot for some people but if there is enough interest I will make them. I will also check with the guys over at the HAMB to see how much interest is over there. Thanks again

Well, I have been working out some details for the best way to make some of the parts on these shifters. I should have some pricing by the first of next week. Thanks for being patient.

Yes that is the speed-o cable connector. Pic 3 shows the end of it and the backup switch. As for moving the "whole rig" back, not sure. It looks like on 40P10touring sedan's overhead pictures that may put the shifter to far back. It may be easier to use a shifter lever with the required bends to get to where you want. Most early cars did this on factory floor shifts that were farther forward.

I think that could be done and would be a good improvement. The one I built is going in a hotrod and we plan to cut the flat bar off down low and mount an old shifter lever to it. Most shifter levers have a flat with bolt holes to mount them.

I think the tan colored ridge is towards the back of the opening. I actually would like to see a picture more to the front of the opening to see how far the brake cable is from the transmission where the shifter will mount. I didn't even think about no backup switch or that the speed-o cable would be on the passengers side on an older car. Does anyone Know if the basic dimensions of the transmissions are the same through the years?

The center of the shift lever would be 1 1/2" forward and 1 1/2" to the drivers side from the front E-brake mounting boss.

I think your wright. It looks like it will clear no problem. But can you take one more picture from the top showing the backup switch, speed-O cable and the brake cable. Thanks

Yell!, Those pictures tell a lot. Thanks for taking them and so fast. It looks like the spacers I use where the main bracket mounts to the brake mounting bosses would only have to be shorter by 1/8 of an inch or so to work. So if all of the brake assemblies are built like this one the shifter should bolt on just fine and still use the hand brake. I need one or two more pictures though. I want to see if the brake cable would interfere with the shifter. It looks like the cable that activates the brake runs from the brake forward at an angle towards the drivers side. This would be good. I need a picture from the top that shows how far the cable is from the transmission about where the speedometer cable and the backup switch are on the transmission. Thanks in advance for more pictures. I took the drawings to one of the shops I use so I should have a price figured out in a week or two.

It probably came from the East side of the state. the East side is divided from the West side by a ridge of mountains. They stop most of the water from getting to the East side. You can find some very nice rust free cars on the East side of the state.

If you could post some pictures that would be great. It would be nice to have one straight down, one from the side (drivers), one from the bottom, and one from the rear. On my shifter the main bracket that fastens to the two mounting bosses on the trans have spacers that are about 7/8" long. So I want to see what the brake mount looks like and how it actually mounts. Thanks

The Mopar units are $140 plus shipping. There is lots of info on my web site and you can buy them there. Thanks for asking.

I took a few more pictures for everyone to look at. As to the questions about the O-drive and hand brake. I don't see any way to make it work with the R-10. To much stuff in the way. Not sure about the hand brake. The car I built it for has rear axle parking brakes. Does anyone have pictures of a hand brake bolted to the trans? Then maybe I can tell if it would work with the hand brake.

Thanks for the warm welcome. Wow, lots of questions about the Cool-View. I'll give you the run down. The glass tube is made out of borosilicate glass commonly known as PYREX®. It is actually boiler site glass rated at 150PSI at 500F and it stays clean. I use special Buma-n seals at each end with high tach high temp adhesive on both sides to seal the glass to the aluminum ends. It uses a standard off the shelf thermostat. The spacers are precision machined to put the correct preload on the seals. the decal is made from ground glass and fired on at 1000f and that fuses it to the glass tube. They come fully assembled and ready to install. I even pressure test every one before it goes out the door. I have never had one come back because it leaked. When I started making the MOPAR version of these I did some checking and found out the following information. Which is handy to have but may be more than you want! There are essentially two different water outlet bolt patterns used by all Chrysler engines from 1924-2003. One is the older large size with a center to center bolt pattern of 3.25 inches. This pattern was used on all v8 engines from 1951 to 1978 and all flathead 4, 6 & 8 inline engines back to 1924. The thermostat diameter is 2.49 inches for this size housing. The other water outlet bolt pattern is 2.875 inches. This pattern was used on all slant 6 engines and the newer small block engines made after 1978. The thermostat diameter is 2.125 inches for this size housing. All flathead 4, 6, 8 inline, Slant 6 and V8s made before 1979 use 3/8 inch bolts. V8 Small block engines 1979 and newer use 5/16 inch or metric size bolts. Things get more complicated. Even though the 3.25 pattern is the same for all v8s from 1951-1978 many of the 1950s water outlets have bypasses built into the housing. This is also true of most of the flathead 6 & 8 inline engines. If you plan to change to a different water outlet on these engines it is important to know what the bypass did and is changing to a non bypass water outlet going to have an adverse effect. Bypasses are used on these engines mostly to keep from having hot spots in the cooling jacket as the engine comes up to temperature because the bypass recirculates the water in the engine. They are also used were the winter temperatures are very cold so the heater warms up faster. In addition some of the thermostats were constructed to work in conjunction with the water outlet’s bypass and use a different size Thermostat. Most of these thermostats are 2.55 inches in diameter. Some of the small block v8 aftermarket manifolds have both the 2.875 and the 3.25 bolt patterns which allow you to use either size water outlet. Also not all water outlets use the same size radiator hose. The 3.25 bolt pattern is also the same as Chevy.

I live in Washington known as Wrustingtin because of all the rain we get. Just north of Portland Or.

I just Joined and thought I should say hello, I joined for a few reasons. 1 is I wanted to respond to some questions about a thread I started over on the HAMB about a floor shifter I made for the selector transmission. The second is I do work on my brothers 51 Cranbrook from time to time and come here for answers which I often find. The last is I build viewable thermostat housings that fit these early mopar. My brothers 51 has one of the viewable thermostats on it. And I hope to contribute some good tech info from time to time. Here are a couple pictures of my brothers 51. Its a 60,000 mile car that has been in the family from day one and is in very good condition.